WINE TASTINGS
Our cool-climate Bordeaux varieties show the diversity of wine styles possible in New Zealand, says STEPHEN WONG, MW.
The best Bordeaux varieties, shiraz and syrah
THE RED GRAPE varieties of Bordeaux have been in the Antipodes for a long time, first arriving in the early 19th century. Spurred on by the prestige of the famous Bordeaux Cru Classé estates, New Zealand followed the example of other wine-hopeful countries by planting the cabernets and merlot to emulate Bordeaux. Pinot noir’s ascent in New Zealand was more recent, coinciding with viticultural expansion southwards into cooler climates (Martinborough, Marlborough, Canterbury and Central Otago). While export markets focus on pinot noir, most of our top examples from Bordeaux varieties are hoarded by local collectors. This contrasts with Australia, for whom pinot noir is also a relative newcomer, but whose cabernet sauvignons achieved widespread global recognition in the 90s, particularly those from Coonawarra and Margaret River.
Up until the mid-2000s, cabernet sauvignon was considered a marginal ripener in most of our wine regions – even in its heartland,
Hawke’s Bay – making certain vintages like 1991 and 1998 sought after. As a result, we saw a rise in merlot blends with malbec, which provided consistent colour and ripeness in most vintages. Beginning with 2009, however, the incidence of warmer vintages has increased and cabernet sauvignon is once again coming to the forefront. As some inevitable palate fatigue sets in from the abundance of hedonistic, perfumed pinot noir (and the much talked about syrah), the reserved, firm and contemplative Bordeaux-inspired blends provide a counterpoint and reinforce the diversity of wine styles possible in New Zealand.
The tasting reflects a drinker’s view of these varieties (rather than a collector’s), with the top spot going to a crunchier and elegant cabernet franc, a style associated more with the currently fashionable Loire Valley. Throughout the tasting, suppleness, understated elegance, restraint and freshness were rewarded alongside the heavier, more traditional oak-driven wines.