TOP BORDEAUX VARIETY

Askerne Cabernet Franc 2019 (Hawke’s Bay) - 4 $24.90 ★★★★★

Kathryn and John Loughlin established Askerne in 1993, expanding in 2000 into the neighbouring orchard to take it to 20ha, and this newer plot is where the red wines are from. Cabernet franc is a particular love of Emma Wang, who works with the Loughlins in the winery, which might explain why such attention is lavished onto this less common grape here. Talented young winemaker Cairn Coghill recently joined Askerne from Sileni, so watch for even more exciting, elegant and complex wines in the near future.

This wine comes from grapes grown on the stony, sandy terrace of the vineyard, on the plains beside the Tukituki River. Cabernet franc is leafy, very fragrant and supple, with a lighter body than its progeny cabernet sauvignon (the other parent is sauvignon blanc). The judges’ notes reflect classic notes of cedar, lifted fragrance and elegant, flowing palate with red fruit and spice through to the end of its crunchy, refreshing finish. It sees 22% new oak, which is more Saint-émilion than Loire-like in interpretation, but the site delivers a distinctly cooler-climate style, so the result is halfway between the two.

2 / Askerne Reserve Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Franc 2019 (Hawke’s Bay) ★★★★★ - 8 $32.90

Askerne has delivered a one-two punch here. A more serious and less easy-drinking wine than the cabernet franc, this is part of their Reserve range, which started life in 2004. This wine is from the same stony, sandy lower terrace as the pure cabernet franc. A blend of 43% merlot, 31% cabernet sauvignon, 21% cabernet franc and 5% malbec, this Reserve also has a whack more new oak (47% new), making it more opulent but also more drying and less refreshing than the cabernet franc. Qualitatively, there is no question that this reflects the excellent, powerful, ripe and concentrated vintage of 2019 – redolent of Black Forest cake (that’s the black cherry of merlot with the vanilla of oak), earthy mushroom and vibrant berry fruit, all wrapped in an elegant, almost understated and succulent palate with touches of restrained chalky tannins. Unlike the cabernet franc, which begs for immediate drinking, the Reserve merlot will evolve more slowly and still be well in its stride at the end of this decade.

Thank you to San Pellegrino for supplying the water to our tasting panel.

3 / Stonecroft Gimblett Gravels Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 (Hawke’s Bay) ★★★★★ - 10 $45

Current owners of Stonecroft, Dermot Mccollum and Andria Monin, started making a 100% cabernet sauvignon cuvée in the great Hawke’s Bay vintage of 2014, from vines that were planted in 2000 and 2001. Hand-picked entirely on 12 April 2019 from their Biogro organic-certified Corners Vineyard at the base of Roy’s Hill, only 200 cases of this were made from the excellent 2019 vintage. Coming in at only 12% alcohol, it is sensitively made, with low sulphur. Distinctly cool-climate cabernet, this has the hallmark fresh leafiness of the variety, with refined cassis, violet florals and cedar held amid a soaring structure of acidity and firm but refined tannins. The oak is noticeable but in balance, having aged for 18 months in barrels, and the lowsulphur winemaking lends it both softness in fruit and also some brooding funk. Two judges commented on the “beauty of the vintage showing through”, and it has the balance to age for another decade, though it would be entirely understandable if most bottles were enjoyed before then.

4 / Church Road 1 Merlot 2016 (Hawke’s Bay) ★★★★★ - 10 $90

As one of the oldest wineries in New Zealand, Church Road needs no introduction. Today, winemaker Chris Scott continues the work of Tom Mcdonald, who crafted some of Hawke’s Bay’s most famous red wines of the mid-20th century. The idea behind the new ONE range, sitting in between the winery’s iconic TOM series and its Grand Reserve series, is for each bottling to come from one vineyard and reflect the expression of one variety as interpreted by one winemaker. At five years old, this wine is just beginning to reveal itself; very concentrated, with chewy tannins and layers of fruit and oak, combining mouthfilling power and richness typical of merlot with the bright acidity and elegance of the cool climate of Hawke’s Bay. Ben Glover gave it the ultimate winemaker’s compliment, “very smart”. It wouldn’t be a crime to open this now but it can clearly sleep in a cellar until its 10th birthday.

5 / Abbotts & Delaunay ‘Les Fruits Sauvages’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 (Pays d’oc, France) ★★★★ - 2 $20

Burgundian winemaker Laurent Delaunay has set up in the Languedoc region with his Abbots & Delaunay domaine. Les Fruits Sauvages (The Wild Fruit) is the entry-level wine from the humble Pays d’oc appellation, made from a blend of two terroirs – the foothills of the Cévennes for spice, and vines in the Aude valley for soft richness. Only 10% of this ages in oak barrels, most of it sitting in stainless steel to retain fruit purity. The easy-tolove accessibility of this wine along with its instant complexity, hints of vanilla and bright-red to black berry flavours, delivers immediate enjoyment. It may be a touch simpler than the other wines in the recommendations, but it shows just how much good vineyard land there remains in the Languedoc for drinkers to discover. (A)

6 / Vasse Felix Tom Cullity Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 (Margaret River) ★★★★ - 25 $156

“When I smell the forest, smell the ocean, smell the beautiful dirt, I want to see some of that come through in the wine,” says Virginia Willcock, describing her vision for Margaret River wines. This Perth local has been responsible for raising Vasse Felix to new heights since taking over as chief winemaker in 2006. This blend of 80% cabernet sauvignon, 16% malbec and 4% petit verdot is her icon red, named after the estate’s founder, local cardiologist Dr Tom Cullity, who planted the vines for this wine in 1967. This is undeniably powerful and reflects a level of ripeness achievable only in Australia, yet also demonstrates supreme elegance, purity of fruit, poise and great complexity. Hints of secondary development are just beginning to show, with notes of sweet tea, currants and plenty of vanillin new oak (62% new barrels), but the intensely tannic, long palate with vibrant acidity will see this wine well into its third decade of life with no trouble. (A)

Church Road 1 Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 (Hawke’s Bay) ★★★★ - 15 $90

Decibel Wines Testify by Daniel Brennan Red 2018 (Hawke’s Bay) ★★★★ - 10 $56

Jim Barry Cover Drive Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 (Clare Valley) ★★★★ - 4 $25 (A)

Langmeil Black Beauty Malbec 2019 (Barossa) ★★★★ - 5 $30 (A)

Les Jamelles Merlot 2018 (Languedoc, France) ★★★★ - 2 $20 (B)

Paritua Platinum Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 (Hawke’s Bay) ★★★★ - 12 $95

Taylor’s Estate Label Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 (Clare Valley) ★★★★ - 3 $20 (C)

Yalumba The Menzies Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 ★★★★ - 10 $48 (A)