Cuisine

THE NOT-SO- SWEET SMELL OF SUCCESS

An aged riesling is first across the line in this year’s tasting, says MARY-THERESE BLAIR.

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LIKE MOST INDUSTRIES, wine has its own internal colloquial language full of expression­s that don’t make sense unless you know. One such term is ‘Petrol Head’, a reference that seems better suited to a group of car enthusiast­s than wine connoisseu­rs – but it’s a thing. It refers to those who love the smell of aged riesling. Riesling, after some time in bottle, takes on a distinct aroma of kerosene. The jury is out as to whether this is a winemaking fault or a characteri­stic of the varietal – and I have heard much debate on either side – but whatever the reason, riesling lovers cannot get enough of this hallmark smell.

Our top riesling is a 2015 vintage and some of the judges notes do refer to a hint of kerosene; perhaps it’s that which tipped them over the edge to crown this wine? Who knows – the secrecy of the judging room is sacrosanct – but if a hint of petrol isn’t your thing, you have lots of incredible rieslings young and aged to choose from.

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