GEMMAYZE ST

15.5/20

Something exciting happens at the back of K’ Road’s atmospheric St Kevin’s Arcade of an evening, with a street-dining-meets-palm-court ambience and superb Lebanese home cooking. Start with the silkiest hummus ever or vibrant tabbouleh while being guided through the exotic Lebanese wine and beer choices. The staff are as authentic as the aromatic, satisfying food, served in perfect sharing portions, beautifully cooked and full of Middle Eastern flavours. Order the ‘jeeb’ and chef Samir Allen will send out a stream of cut-above classics such as baba ghanouj and fattouch, followed by larger plates such as samak, a golden-fried thick nugget of seared hāpuku on an aromatically spiced green lentil stew with fennel purée and stewed radicchio. Finish off with the exquisite rose custard and green apple dessert topped with a crunchy bunch of kataifi pastry.

Shop 15-16, St Kevin’s Arcade, Karangahape Road, Auckland 09 600 1545, gemmayzestreet.co.nz

Dinner Tue-sat, shared plates $10-60

IN BRIEF Modern Lebanese home cooking in a cool space