JOIE DE VIVRE

There is a glass of bubbles to suit every taste, says JOHN BELSHAM.

CHAMPAGNE PROMOTIONS are layered with glossy images celebrating the joys of life. During a recent visit to Champagne I was reminded that this notion is not a veneer but heartfelt. Not only are the best winemakers humble but the pride and passion that drives them is as much shaped by their past as their present. The history of their region has not always been joyful and includes the ravages of two devastating world wars. If it is indeed true that you need to experience great sadness to understand great joy, then the Champenois are eminently qualified to celebrate the “joys of life”.

The virtues of time and patience that were fundamental in surviving the hardships of war now define their winemaking strategies. This philosophy perhaps explains one of the great ironies of Champagne, as to how so much complexity is derived from seemingly under-ripe fruit. We certainly revelled in the complexity of the wines in this tasting. The quality and the diversity are inspiring and ensures that there is a glass of bubbles to suit every taste.