Fashion Quarterly

OUTDOOR ENTHUSIASM

Gear up for a fashion adventure

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NEW ZEALAND prides itself on its natural landscapes. Our lush native bush, crystal blue lakes, clean mountain air and wild, west coast beaches are what we’re known for. But although a love for the great outdoors might be in our collective DNA, the sartoriall­y conscious among us realised long ago that it’s hard to look chic carrying a pair of hiking poles, which is why, for the most part, the closest we’ll get to an alpine expedition is enjoying a few flutes of Veuve at Clicquot in the Snow.

Consider, however, how the sport luxe trend reshaped our attitudes towards exercise. Prior to 2010 we would work out grudgingly, dragging our heels in our beaten-up sneakers every step of the way. But then mainstream sportswear brands put the fashion back into fitness and we became gym bunnies overnight. Of course, as sportswear collaborat­ions became increasing­ly high-end (Stella McCartney x Adidas, Riccardo Tisci x Nike) and our athleisure outfits were deemed too good to sweat in, our appetites for exercise were usurped by our appetites for brunch and all those high-performanc­e fabrics and technical fastenings were rendered superfluou­s.

If we’re being honest, they were only ever for appearance­s anyway. But as we teeter on the precipice of an adventurew­ear trend, we must ask — is a collaborat­ion with Vetements all that’s standing between us and a Kathmandu puffer jacket?

Stranger collabs have happened. As early as 2008, contempora­ry German fashion designer Bernhard Willhelm was partnering with sensible Spanish footwear brand Camper on the first of what would be several collection­s of ‘Himalayan’ hiking sneakers. A more convincing case for camping chic was made on the spring/summer 2014 runways with the debut of Prada’s bejewelled Teva sandals, and a canvas Chanel daypack complete with bungee rope and carabiner. By December 2015, fashion forecaster Trendstop had revealed ‘new utility’ as its pick for the coming year and the cargo pockets, drawstring­s, clips, toggles and tramping boots followed. By the end of 2016, with a clear path ahead, we were left to question why we’d been ignoring the signs for so long. Perhaps it was the tramping trend’s perceived lack of sex appeal — an argument that was voided by Versace’s SS17 Bond Girl-Scout in her Lycra bodysuit, anorak, fully equipped accessory belt and highheeled Tevas. Off the runway, front-rowers demonstrat­ed the power of proportion and unexpected textures and prints to elevate an otherwise utilitaria­n ensemble. And although wearers of the long-line quilted puffer coats seen at Acne and Chanel could have been mistaken for people who’d stepped out in sleeping bags, we are hard pressed to think of a garment that will appeal more to a Dunedinite in the dead of winter.

North Islanders, on the other hand, should note that fashion’s outdoorsy offerings aren’t just geared towards those in colder climes, as both Kenzo and Stella McCartney proved during fashion month in September, with their lightweigh­t, waterproof garments in hunting and fishing-approved shades of khaki. Still fresh-air averse? Well, you’re fresh out of excuses. Go forth and conquer your fashion Everest — in case of a fashion emergency, pack a safety blanket. Xuly. Bët has a great one.

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Be your own beacon in light-reflecting metallics. Safety
first, people.
FUN AND FUNCTIONAL Be your own beacon in light-reflecting metallics. Safety first, people.

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