Fashion Quarterly

IT’S COOL TO KŌRERO

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Photos of Prime Minster Jacinda Ardern and the Duchess of Sussex wearing traditiona­l Māori cloaks were seen around the world and instilled a sense of pride for many Kiwis – but what’s the meaning behind these works of art? Fashion designer Kiri Nathan (Ngāpuhi, Waikato Tainui), who has created contempora­ry korowai (cloaks) for Beyoncé, Childish Gambino and

Mariah Carey, shares her knowledge.

Why do you think the photos of Jacinda and the Duchess struck such a chord? As Kiwis, we’re always proud to see our country and our indigenous culture positively celebrated, both nationally and internatio­nally.

When should they be worn? Māori cloaks are most commonly worn on special occasions, whether a significan­t hui and coming together of people, or a significan­t graduation or birthday.

The cloaks hold stories of our history or whānau [family] and whakapapa [genealogy]. They’re held in the highest regard and worn with the highest form of respect. What’s the significan­ce of someone who’s not Māori being gifted or lent one to wear? For centuries, cloaks have been gifted to manuhiri [guests] to our country as a form of respect and to honour the individual in a way that only Māori culture can. There is and always has been contention around the topic of non-Māori wearing or being gifted

Māori cloaks depending on personal, iwi [tribe] and hapū [subtribe] beliefs.

What are the main difference­s between the styles of Māori cloaks? There are specific names for the various styles. Korowai is the name of a muka [flax fibre] cloak with hukahuka adornment [tassels], while kākahu is the Māori kupu [word] for clothing, however in reference to a cloak it’s more commonly used when describing a full feather cloak. There are other names for cloaks made from various mediums, for example pake [rain cloaks], woven with durable dried leaves; kahi koati, woven with goat hair; kahu huruhuru, woven with full feather coverage; kahu kiwi, with full kiwi feather coverage; and kaitaka, a fine muka cloak with tāniko [a traditiona­l weaving technique] borders. How are they usually made, and what’s important when making them? Traditiona­l cloaks are hand-woven in muka and can take an experience­d weaver up to a year to complete.

The skill and time it takes to weave a traditiona­l Māori cloak are only two of the reasons why they’re our most prestigiou­s and highly honoured taonga [sacred item] and why our traditiona­l master weavers are held in such high regard.

Contempora­ry cloaks come in many forms; the revival of the cloak-weaving techniques through wānanga [courses] held at marae all over the country see many weavers using cotton cord as opposed to hand-processed muka. These hand-woven cloaks can take two to six months to weave. There are companies that machine-sew feather trims into fabric and use machinepro­cessed tāniko trims; these can be made in a few hours. In any case, it’s important to respect the tikanga [protocols] around the creation of any Māori taonga and to acknowledg­e the origins and tipuna [ancestors] these precious skills, knowledge and culture have been passed down by.

What are the key difference­s between contempora­ry and traditiona­l korowai? Traditiona­l cloaks are 100 percent handmade from natural fibres – they are the pinnacle of raranga kākahu [woven clothing]. Contempora­ry cloaks are either hand-woven or sewn from contempora­ry mediums.

 ??  ?? FROM FAR LEFT The Duchess of Sussex in New Zealand wearing a muka kākahu by weaver Norma Sturley; Prime Minister Jacinda Ardern welcomes Barack Obama to Aotearoa wearing a cloak with a Miss Crabb top.
FROM FAR LEFT The Duchess of Sussex in New Zealand wearing a muka kākahu by weaver Norma Sturley; Prime Minister Jacinda Ardern welcomes Barack Obama to Aotearoa wearing a cloak with a Miss Crabb top.
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