EDITOR’S LETTER Hello, and welcome
“The world is starved for fun,” declared actor Jennifer Lewis when she appeared as a judge on RuPaul’s Drag Race last year. She’s not wrong.
As fashion becomes increasingly corporate, mindful and well-behaved, now more than ever should we value its creative ability to provide a little joy. From the frothy tulle frocks of Viktor & Rolf, Rodarte and Molly Goddard to the flamboyant costumes of the upcoming Elton John biopic Rocketman, this is an industry that, largely, trades in good old-fashioned fun (okay, sure, you could also read the return of more-is-more, escapist fashion as a reaction to austerity, or a backlash against rising conservatism). Fashion’s #extra mood reaches its peak at the Costume Institute’s exhibition Camp: Notes on Fashion in New York, drawing on Susan Sontag's 1964 essay. When the exhibition was announced last year, I knew it was the perfect excuse to spotlight the fun of fashion; a bit of escapism for winter. For this issue, we explore the complex meaning of camp and its relationship with fashion today (page 44), while comedian Chris Parker elegantly puts it into a local, and personal, context (page 82).
Throughout the issue, we’ve chosen to feature people with their own audacious style and individual take on self-expression: from New Zealand’s coolest DJs putting their spin on sequins (page 48) to the creative team behind our posing shoot (page 132), who are all involved in Auckland’s exciting vogue dance scene.
Our cover star Jordan Daniels was another confident breath of fresh air on set, as at ease in an extravagant fringed dress by Gucci as she was in her own bucket hat and jeans, Juul firmly in hand. She’s appeared in FQ before, but it’s a thrill to feature her again now, on the cusp of modelling superstardom (read more about her on page 109).
Given this camp moment, it’s fitting too that we’re partnering with the Royal New Zealand Ballet for its performance of Black Swan, White Swan, a modern interpretation of Swan Lake – itself listed as part of Sontag’s “canon of camp”. Catch the production touring New Zealand from May, and read our story with artistic director and costume designer Patricia Barker on page 91.
The overarching idea of camp is of enjoyment and playfulness; a sweet cynicism and dethroning of the serious – something fashion desperately needs. Conversations around diversity, inclusivity, sustainability and more are essential and long overdue, but sometimes, it’s okay to just enjoy fashion. Does every piece of clothing need to have a deeper, more thoughtful meaning, or can it just be fabulous?
As Moschino designer Jeremy Scott said at his good-because-it’s-awful Fall 2019 runway show, which channelled the TV game show The Price is Right: “There’s always shit in everyone’s life. A little levity, a little bit of fun – there’s nothing wrong with it.”