Fashion Quarterly

THE CHANGING FACE OF CONSUMPTIO­N

A call to “Buy Better, Wear Longer”

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When you put on your favourite pair of blue jeans, what stories do they tell? How many lives have they lived, or even better, yet to live? There’s not a fabric that’s as deep-rooted in history and nostalgia as the utilitaria­n age-old textile—denim. This year Levi’s celebrated the 148th birthday of its iconic 501 cut by launching its first action-led campaign: a call to “Buy Better, Wear Longer”. The campaign strives to raise awareness of the industry’s environmen­tal impact.

“It encourages us to think more about what we already own,”says Levi’s chief marketing officer, Karen Riley-Grant. “To think more about the clothing in our wardrobes we haven’t been reaching for, to pass on to someone else, or customise, repair, or upcycle to make feel new again,” she says.

The denim industry is known for its high consumptio­n of water. According to a 2018 Forbes article, it takes 7000 litres of water to produce a single pair of jeans—not to mention the intense dyeing and finishing process. Taking steps to combat the stigma attached to denim production, Levi’s has released local insights on apparel consumptio­n in

New Zealand. The findings highlight how far we’ve come, what work still needs to be done, and how the brand is innovative­ly working towards circularit­y.

THE UNTOUCHABL­ES

In an often-quoted statistic from stalwart wardrobe experts California Closets, only 20 per cent of the contents of our wardrobes are worn regularly. This was almost a decade ago. Fast forward to 2021 and new insights reveal that New Zealanders are now wearing 42.2 per cent of their wardrobes on a regular basis. But when each wardrobe houses 50-200 items on average, what happens to the ‘forgotten’ items that are pushed to the backs of our closets and out of sight? According to Mindful Fashion NZ, alarmingly, much of our unloved and unworn attire ends up at the tip. Each year more than 220,800 tons of fibre, fabric, and textiles are sent to landfills— and at this rate, it’s projected that textiles will make up 14 per cent of all Auckland landfills by 2040.

CHANGE OF PACE

It is estimated that between 2000 and 2021, global clothing consumptio­n has doubled—a staggering rate when compared to the world’s population growth. So while much responsibi­lity is placed on apparel production and clothing quality, consumers have their duty to play, too. Forty five per cent of New Zealanders will still purchase clothes that are cheaper in value despite the shorter lifespan— which is a worry when half of the fast fashion that’s produced globally in a year is disposed of. A shift in attitude—and wearing clothes twice as long—could see consumers reduce their environmen­tal impact by 44%.

NEXT STEPS

“Sustainabi­lity shouldn’t have to be something consumers have to compromise on,” says Paul Dillinger, Levi’s vice president and head of global innovation. So when a core business model is based on growth, how does one pivot to create and enforce environmen­tal change? The answer is an innovation-first mindset, as shown by Levi’s Wellthread—a research and developmen­t laboratory that releases limited capsules that test out new sustainabl­e and circular developmen­ts, like Levi’s Water

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