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HOW TO GROW APPLES

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Growing apples is easier than most people think. Once your tree is planted in the right spot and gets off to a healthy start, there is little else you need to do to enjoy your own fresh apples, year after year after year.

Choose the right spot Plant your apple tree where it gets as much sun as possible and in good well-drained soil. Avoid areas where the water puddles and don’t plant too close to larger trees.

Choose the right variety It’s well worth investing time choosing the varieties to suit your needs. If you have room for more than one tree, choosing two complement­ary varieties will improve pollinatio­n, although many varieties are self-fertile. If you live in a humid wet-summer climate, look for the most disease resistant varieties.

Plant with love Dig a planting hole that is twice as wide, but the same depth as the root ball of your new tree. Add some slow release fertiliser and position your tree in the centre of the hole then carefully replace the soil, firming it down as you go. Water thoroughly and add a layer of mulch. Stakes or espalier supports should be in place before you plant to avoid damaging the tree later. Young trees are generally best given some support while they get their roots establishe­d, particular­ly if exposed to wind.

Food and water Some watering will be needed in the first few summers to ensure the soil doesn’t become dry, as water stressed trees will grow poorly and produce less fruit. Mature trees with far reaching roots grow surprising­ly well without watering. In hot dry climates, orchardist­s use irrigation, especially over summer while the fruit is expanding.

Pruning Most apple trees are grown in a ‘central leader’ shape: a main upright trunk with branches radiating outwards from it. If a young tree develops a competing second leader this should be removed unless you wish to train your tree in a vase shape with three or four main leaders. The idea is to train your tree so that it gets plenty of sunlight penetratin­g the branches, maximising fruiting.

Once your tree reaches the desired shape, especially if you plant a dwarf tree, pruning isn’t strictly necessary every year. But if branches become diseased, damaged or overcrowde­d, a little pruning will help to keep it healthy. Remove branches that grow towards the inside of the tree. An open structure keeps the tree well ventilated, which helps prevent disease. Also remove any shoots that pop up around the tree’s roots. The best time to prune is in late winter while the tree is dormant.

In the first year after planting, it’s a good idea to remove the fruit as this redirects energy into growth and helps the tree quickly develop a strong root system.

Pest watch Although apples attract a number of pests, they are easy to grow organicall­y in the home garden. Codling moth, the most destructiv­e apple pest, lays its eggs around October. The caterpilla­rs burrow into the apples to feast on the flesh and protein-rich seeds. A few weeks later they emerge to form cocoons and another generation begins. In warm parts of New Zealand there are usually two generation­s per year. Codling moth can be kept under control by hanging a pheromone trap in the tree every spring. This confuses the males and disrupts mating, thereby preventing the females from laying eggs. The biological spray, Yates Success is effective against codling moth. However, to be effective, any spraying needs to start in spring to kill the eggs. Once the caterpilla­rs have burrowed inside the apple, spraying won’t kill them.

Disease prevention The best defense against disease, especially if you garden in a humid climate like Auckland, is to plant disease resistant varieties. Waimea Nurseries give Apple ‘Initial’ their five star rating.

Many heritage apples, such as ‘Prima’ and ‘Dayton’, are known for their excellent disease resistance. Black spot is a pesky disease that makes fruit look less beautiful but rarely makes it inedible. Powdery mildew is another fungus disease affecting apple trees. Both can be controlled via protective spraying with copper or lime sulphur in spring. The important thing is to spray early, at the onset of growth to prevent the spore count escalating.

Frost protection A chilly winter is not a bad thing for an apple tree, ensuring good fruit set. Frost in spring is not so helpful, as it kills flowers and young fruit. A severe frost can kill a young tree. If a spring frost is imminent, cover your trees with frost cloth or move potted trees to a warmer place. Orchardist­s use irrigation, wind machines and helicopter­s.

 ??  ?? Codling moth trap.
Codling moth trap.

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