Good Food Guide - - Northland -

14/20 This grand old Rus­sell es­tab­lish­ment, which dates back to the height of Kororāreka’s whal­ing days, has gone from strength to strength un­der its cur­rent own­ers, who came on board in 2010. The set­ting is un­matched and lo­cal kaimoana is the star of the menu. The seafood chow­der re­mains a firm favourite, while lo­cal oys­ters, olive oil and cheese all fea­ture in var­i­ous dishes, as does Cui­sine Ar­ti­san Award-win­ning Bay Of Is­lands Smoke­house smoked mul­let, which is put to great use in a salad with lo­cally caught hāpuku and pep­pery kawakawa salsa. The largely lo­cal wait­staff have good knowl­edge of the menu, and are happy to help ex­plain the source of any in­dige­nous in­gre­di­ents to the over­seas guests who flock to the place (with good rea­son). 35 The Strand, Rus­sell, 09 403 7829, the­duke.co.nz Lunch & din­ner 7 days; mains $25-$36.50 Lo­cal in­gre­di­ents IN BRIEF cel­e­brated in a his­toric set­ting by the sea

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