MALO

15/20

Good Food Guide - - Hawke’s Bay -

Ad­join­ing the five-star Porters Bou­tique Ho­tel, Malo is a new ad­di­tion to the Hawke’s Bay fine-din­ing scene, open­ing in De­cem­ber 2016. An abun­dance of wood in the bare table­tops and floor, as well as the floor-to-ceil­ing slat­ted screens sep­a­rat­ing din­ers from bar and street, is punc­tu­ated by white, cre­at­ing a sense of both warmth and light­ness. Named for its own­ers, the Lowe and Mack­ersey fam­i­lies, Malo fo­cuses on sea­sonal, lo­cal pro­duce. Chef Jack­son Smith, whose cre­den­tials in­clude stints at Craggy Range and Ele­phant Hill, draws on Asian and Euro­pean in­flu­ences in his in­no­va­tive dishes. Ten­der Sichuanglazed duck breast with Jerusalem ar­ti­chokes skil­fully lay­ers com­ple­men­tary flavours, while a pair­ing of baked goat’s cheese­cake and lemon sor­bet is per­fect in its so­phis­ti­cated sim­plic­ity. The wine list has an ex­ten­sive se­lec­tion by the glass, and som­me­lier John Lo­gan is knowl­edge­able in his match­ing ad­vice.

4 Te Aute Rd, Have­lock North, 06 877 2009, malo.co.nz Din­ner 7 days; mains $36

IN BRIEF Con­tem­po­rary fine din­ing in a mod­ern, warm set­ting

Game fish crudo with Granny Smith, av­o­cado, sour cream and sor­rel

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