Good Food Guide - - Marlborough -

Chilling­worth Road hides its spe­cial restaurant out the back. Get­ting there is a bit of ex­cite­ment-rais­ing theatre – a guided jour­ney past the bistro ta­bles, down a cor­ri­dor and through an over­sized door. In­side is a win­dow­less, el­e­gant room with ruched stage cur­tain wall­pa­per, black cord cur­tains and chan­de­liers. Chilling­worth Road has joined the de­gus­ta­tion-only move­ment and of­fers five, seven or nine cour­ses. Ser­vice is con­fi­dent and re­spon­sive, and chef Dar­ren Wright delivers in­tri­cate, stylised of­fer­ings that mix flavours and tex­tures in a com­plex dance: a braised pork cheek topped with ba­con crumbs is brought alive with a date and ca­per emul­sion, while lime- and sesame-cured salmon with thin slices of daikon and a soy lime vinai­grette high­light Wright’s affin­ity with seafood.

478 Cran­ford St, City, 03 352 7784, chill­ing­ Din­ner Tues-sat; de­gus­ta­tion menus $85-$135

IN BRIEF Stylish sur­prises in an el­e­gant back room

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