Good - - CONTENTS - Words Carolyn Ent­ing. Art­work Lisa Lodge

An in­sider’s guide to ex­plor­ing Dunedin

This wildly beau­ti­ful and pro­gres­sive city built on the Otago Har­bour may be steeped in his­tory, but has great plans for the fu­ture. It’s abun­dant with wildlife, artists, fash­ion de­sign­ers, tech start-ups, craft beer brew­ers and unique din­ing ex­pe­ri­ences. Where else can you dine in a cas­tle? Here are 26 rea­sons to visit. A

Walk­ing the Street Art Trail is a good way to see the city. Lo­cal and vis­it­ing artists have bright­ened up the city in re­cent years with more than 28 qual­ity mu­rals. One of our favourites is Song Bird Pipe Or­gan on Manse St. Down­load the map at


En­ter the heat of the trop­ics at

Otago Mu­seum where but­ter­flies from the Philip­pines flut­ter about you. The heated rain­for­est atrium is part of a rain­for­est con­ser­va­tion aware­ness pro­gramme and home to a pro­tected but­ter­fly species that is be­ing ac­tively man­aged to en­sure a sus­tained pop­u­la­tion. The Otago Mu­seum is also home to a state-of-the-art plan­e­tar­ium. otago­mu­


Choco­late is syn­ony­mous with Dunedin be­cause of the Cad­bury fac­tory. How­ever, there’s a new choco­late on the block called Ocho that’s bean-to-bar de­li­cious. A hot choco­late from Ocho at 22 Vo­gel St is a must. Ocho can also be found at the Otago Farm­ers Mar­ket. Read more about Ocho on page 95.


It’s worth pop­ping into the Duke of Wellington (51 Queens Gar­dens) for a pint, even if it’s just to ad­mire the chan­de­liers. It’s highly rated on TripAd­vi­sor, too.


Emer­son’s Brew­ery put Dunedin on the craft beer map and af­ter 25 years of mak­ing great beer, it has opened a tap room and restau­rant (70 An­zac Ave). Here, you can sam­ple a pint from one of its small batch brews, or­der an Emer­son’s beer and whisky pair­ing (Lon­don Porter & Talisker is one we tried and liked), or set­tle in for a re­laxed pub meal. We rec­om­mend the smokey chips with hop salt! Open seven days. emer­


The Fri­day Shop aka High­gate Bridge

Bak­ery (300 High­gate, Roslyn) is only open on a Fri­day and fa­mous lo­cally for its French pas­tries. Get there early to en­sure you don’t miss out. Also only open on a Fri­day is new brew­ery New New New (218 Craw­ford St). It’s open from 4.30pm to 9.30pm. Its new­est brew at the time Good went to print was a peach and nec­tarine sour ale.


As New Zealand’s first GigCity (win­ning the Cho­rus NZ Gi­ga­town com­pe­ti­tion), Dunedin had gi­ga­bit tech­nol­ogy avail­able be­fore any other city in the coun­try. Over the past three years Dunedin has had hun­dreds of thou­sands in­vested in tech start-ups and tech com­mu­nity projects (through the fund­ing from Cho­rus won as part of the prize), in­clud­ing projects ded­i­cated to ed­u­cat­ing young peo­ple in tech. And there are 13 Live Gig-en­abled FREE wi-fi hotspots through­out the city and a Gig Liv­ing Hub in the cen­tral li­brary.


A tour of his­toric home Olve­ston is a must for any­one with an ap­pre­ci­a­tion for clever de­sign de­tails and beau­ti­ful things. It was home to the well-trav­elled Theomin fam­ily, who built New Zealand’s finest his­toric man­sion and filled it with trea­sures. The home was later be­queathed to the city of Dunedin with all of its orig­i­nal fur­nish­ings, in­clud­ing price­less art­work. Guided tours only and book­ings es­sen­tial. olve­


A high­light on the New Zealand fash­ion cal­en­dar, the iD Dunedin Emerg­ing

De­signer Awards will be held on May 3 and 4, 2018. The awards will show­case the very lat­est in tech­nol­ogy, fab­ri­ca­tion and fash­ion in­no­va­tion. Tick­ets are on sale through tick­et­mas­


Dunedin is a very walk­a­ble city but to get out to the Otago Penin­sula or Port Chalmers you need a car. Grab a car at the air­port from Jucy Ren­tals ( or if you love clas­sic Jaguars, book a pri­vate tour with Clas­sic Jaguar Li­mousines ( clas­sic­ The driv­ers know their his­tory and all the best spots.


Walk from St Clair to St Kilda Beach to en­joy its white sand dunes. St Clair is a great spot for surf­ing or watch­ing surfers, and the es­planade has a num­ber of great beach­side eater­ies. St Clair has a hot salt water pool, too.


With a rich his­tory dat­ing back to 1871, there are so many rea­sons to visit Lar­nach

Cas­tle – and you can stay here too. Lar­nach Lodge and the ad­ja­cent sta­bles of­fer ac­com­mo­da­tion within the cas­tle grounds, plus lux­ury ac­com­mo­da­tion at nearby Camp Es­tate. Guests have the op­tion of a three-course din­ner din­ing ex­pe­ri­ence in the cas­tle (highly rec­om­mended). The views of the Otago Penin­sula and har­bour from the cas­tle grounds and lodge ac­com­mo­da­tion are sim­ply spec­tac­u­lar; it’s no sur­prise the grounds have re­ceived a Gar­dens of In­ter­na­tional Sig­nif­i­cance Award. High tea is also served in the ball­room dur­ing the day. lar­nach­cas­


As mar­kets go it’s hard to beat the Otago Farm­ers Mar­ket ad­ja­cent to Dunedin’s his­toric Rail­way Sta­tion (an­other must-see). Ev­ery Satur­day from 8am lo­cal pro­duc­ers gather here to sell ev­ery­thing from freshly roasted hazel­nuts (Amazel­nuts) to bunches of sweet­peas, el­der­flower kom­bucha (Drag­on­fly), honey, pies, cheeses and lo­cally-grown fruit and veg­eta­bles. Don’t miss the sweet treats made by Matt Cross of bou­tique bak­ery The Tart Tin and cook­book fame. otago­farm­ers­mar­


Take a ride on the wild side with

Na­ture’s Won­ders on the Otago Penin­sula head­land. It’s a self-funded con­ser­va­tion ef­fort by Perry and Tracey Reid who take a hands-off ap­proach to na­ture and won’t al­low any­one (in­clud­ing them­selves) to walk on the beaches of this iso­lated prop­erty. Yel­low-eyed pen­guins are breed­ing here in safety and can be seen from afar in day­light, which as Reid points out “is like see­ing a panda in the wild”. A thriv­ing fur seal colony also calls this place home. Choose the 8-wheel drive ter­rain ve­hi­cle for an ex­hil­a­rat­ing cross-coun­try tour of the prop­erty where you get to see the seals, pen­guins and 360-de­gree views of Dunedin and the Penin­sula from the top of the hill. na­tureswon­


Orokonui Eco­sanc­tu­ary com­prises of 229ha of Depart­ment of Con­ser­va­tion land

man­aged by the Otago Nat­u­ral His­tory Trust and 78ha of Trust-owned land, and is a haven for rare na­tive birds and tu­atara. The com­ple­tion of a preda­tor-proof fence in 2007 has done a good job of keep­ing out rats and stoats. On our visit we saw kaka, tūi, ker­erū, takehe and South Is­land robin. Here you’ll also find podocarp for­est, hik­ing trails and a pur­pose-built eco vis­i­tor’s cen­tre and cafe that bakes its own sour­dough. A 20-minute drive from Dunedin city.


Por­to­bello is a pretty lit­tle town that you need to pass through on the way to Ta­iaroa Head, Otago Penin­sula (home to the Royal Al­ba­tross Cen­tre and Na­ture’s Won­ders). It’s also where you turn off to Al­lans Beach, and the Pyra­mids and Vic­tory Beach walk. On a sunny day there is noth­ing nicer than en­joy­ing fish and chips, sea­side, at Por­to­bello.


The mon­u­men­tal form of Quoin Cliff has been de­scribed as “stand­ing proud like a great im­pas­sive sphinx”. You can hike to Quoin Cliff from Pipikaretu Rd. It’s a tough climb that re­wards with great views.


The Otago Penin­sula is home to the world’s only main­land breed­ing colony of royal al­ba­tross. You can see these great birds fly­ing above the carpark of the Royal Al­ba­tross Cen­tre. Paid tours are also an op­tion, where you walk up to an ob­ser­va­tory to view the colony. al­ba­


Say­ing it like it is, Good Good and New New New (see F for Fri­day) are the names of a new burger joint and brew­ery re­spec­tively, and you need a bit of knowhow to find them. The guys at Good Good – best mates Reece Tur­fus and Rob Rat­ten – op­er­ate from a car­a­van parked down an al­ley­way off Vo­gel St. Ta­ble seat­ing is pro­vided in an airy atrium, the at­mos­phere is hip and most im­por­tantly, the burg­ers are de­li­cious. There are just three on the menu – beef, chicken and mac ‘n’ cheese (their veg­e­tar­ian op­tion and a must for mac ‘n’ cheese lovers).


Tun­nel Beach (see W for walks).


Take a wan­der through the grounds of

Uni­ver­sity of Otago to ad­mire its her­itage build­ings. Nearby, Otago Polytech­nic is in­ter­na­tion­ally recog­nised as a world leader for its fash­ion school and in­no­va­tion in food de­sign ed­u­ca­tion.


The month of March is Vin­tage Month in Dunedin and it’s when op­por­tu­nity store Shop on Car­roll (10 Car­roll St) puts out its best vin­tage frocks and footwear for sale. How­ever, this store is a trea­sure trove for qual­ity sec­ond-hand finds all year round. Speak­ing of V, check out the vi­sion­ary plan for Dunedin’s water­front de­vel­op­ment by ar­chi­tect Damien van Bran­den­burg. Its fu­tur­is­tic de­sign is truly in­cred­i­ble.


Two walks not to miss when in Dunedin are Tun­nel Beach and Dunedin’s Pyra­mids. You’ll need a car to get the start of both tracks. Tun­nel Beach pro­vides views of dra­matic coastal cliffs and ac­cess through a tun­nel to the beach. The pyra­mids on the Otago Penin­sula are sen­tinels of the long­est beach on the Penin­sula, Vic­tory Beach. Find out more about these spec­tac­u­lar walks at nz/won­der­ful-walks


Dunedin de­signer fash­ion has the

X-fac­tor. Places to shop in­clude Plume (310 Ge­orge St) which is the home store for Dunedin la­bel NOM*d (founder Margi Robert­son just re­ceived an ONZM for ser­vices to the fash­ion in­dus­try). Plume also stocks in­ter­na­tional de­signer la­bels.

Mild Red (1 York Place) is des­ti­na­tion shop­ping at its best. With no street front, fol­low the path to the back and be amazed by this stylish hide­away and what’s on the racks. Both Mild Red and NOM*d are New Zealand made, too. and nomd­


Yel­low-eyed pen­guins (see N for Na­ture’s Won­ders).


A great place to base your­self as well as catch some zzz’s while in Dunedin is

Dis­tinc­tion Ho­tel (6 Liverpool St). It’s right in the newly de­vel­oped Vo­gel St precinct (home to Good Good burger and Ocho Choco­late), and is close to the Street Art Trail, Duke of Wellington and many of the city’s good op­por­tu­nity shops.

Clock­wise: Sweet­peas from Otago Farm­ers Mar­ket; vin­tage china from Shop on Car­roll; First Church; watch­ing seals is a high­light at Na­ture’s Won­ders; Good Good’s burger car­a­van.

Get there Air New Zealand flies to Dunedin from Auck­land, Wellington and Christchurch with con­nec­tions avail­able from all Air New Zealand ser­viced do­mes­tic air­ports. For more in­for­ma­tion visit

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