Autumn at altitude
Before winter arrives and blankets Tongariro National Park with snow, there’s an alpine village nestled in beech forest that has autumn adventures sorted, writes
Tongariro National Park is rife with volcanoes — and taking pride of place is Mount Doom. Even without fancy Lord of the Rings special effects, Mount Ngāuruhoe broods; despite not having blown its top since 1975. For the brave, New Zealand’s best oneday walk winds around its flanks en route to Mount Tongariro summit. At nearly 20km long, the Tongariro Crossing lets keen hikers traverse the country’s oldest park and gape at the dramatic high-altitude scenery.
The Central Plateau with its three volcanoes is touted as nature’s playground during summer and winter. But there’s a quieter season wedged between summer and winter where families can avoid the hordes of tourists and discover walks through low-lying tussock grasslands and beech forest. With its clear days and crisp mountain air, autumn is an ideal time to visit Whakapapa Village, the trailhead for plenty of family-friendly adventures. Here are six sedate strolls to check off before temperatures plummet.
Taranaki Falls Walk, Ngāuruhoe Terrace
Meander through dramatic barren landscapes to a 20-metre-high waterfall plunging off an ancient lava flow. This easy trail provides a glimpse into how the mighty forces beneath your feet have shaped the park’s varied ecology. Halfway is about the top of the waterfall before you sidle down steep stairs to the base of the falls — a perfect spot for a picnic. Follow Wairere Stream to the lower bridge to see small waterfalls cascade through water-worn gorges before returning to the village through the alpine beech forest. Need to know: Allow two hours to to complete the 6km-long loop. Begins at the end of Ngāuruhoe Terrace. No dogs allowed in Tongariro National Park.
Ridge Track
This steady uphill track takes you through beech forest and alpine shrubland before emerging above the forest line for impressive views of the imposing Mount Ngāuruhoe. This is a perfect short outing to capture sunset over the volcanic landscape if you are lingering late in the village. Need to know: Allow 40 minutes return. Walking only. Begins 150 metres past the visitor centre at the shelter. No dogs allowed.
Silica Rapids, Bruce Road
Traverse tussock covered lava flows, dip down into small gullies and meander along boardwalks protecting alpine bogs with Mount Ruapehu providing an imposing backdrop. The creamy coloured Waikare Stream bubbles to the surface at the base of a lava flow further up the valley. You can see the stream, rich in aluminium and silicate minerals near the viewing platforms, skimming across shallow rapids. Plenty of helpful information signs gives an overview of the area’s local flora, fauna, and geology.
Need to know: Allow 90 minutes return from Bruce Rd. Walking only. Drive up Bruce Rd towards Iwikau Village for 2.5km. Parking on left. No dogs allowed.
Whakapapa Nature Walk
Navigate through different alpine vegetation zones on this mini-adventure beneath weatherbeaten beech trees beside the Whakapapanui Stream. It’s buggy and wheelchair-friendly, and helpful signs along the way boost your native plant knowledge. There’s also a short walkingonly trail down to the river where you might spot kiwi prints on the sandy stream banks. Need to know: Allow 15 minutes for the loop. Suitable for walking and buggies. Begins 250 metres past the visitor centre on the right. No dogs allowed.
Tāwhai Falls, SH48
This idyllic waterfall is ideal for wringing out the last bit of mountain adventures before heading home. It’s on the road to Whakapapa Village, and keen Lord of the Rings fans will recognise this spot as Gollum’s Pool. It’s a short 400-metre-long stroll through beech forest and mountain toatoa to a lookout over the 13-metrehigh falls. Further along, there are steps down to a rock cluster with even better views of the waterfall and a small beach. Allow about 20 minutes return; more for re-enacting LOTR scenes.
Need to know: 4km before Whakapapa Village on SH48. Walking only. No dogs allowed.
Mounds Walk, SH48
Wind your way past strange hummocky mounds to a vantage point where you can eyeball this perplexing landscape. Were the humps created during the ice age or during an eruption 11,000 years ago? You’ll need to reach the end to find out. This short, easy walk is ideal on a nice clear day for the mountain views. The road to the village goes straight through the middle of one mound so take a peek at what lies inside. Need to know: Allow 20 minutes return. Walking only. Car park is 5km before the visitor centre. No dogs allowed.
Ceana Priest is the author of the familyfriendly Outdoor Kid guidebooks outdoorkid.co. nz. For more things to see and do in the region, go to visitruapehu.com
For more travel inspiration, go to newzealand.com/nz Check traffic light settings and Ministry of Health advice before travel at covid19.govt.nz