PLEASURE CRUZ
Why not broaden your horizons with international travel back on the agenda? Just south of San Francisco is the characterful and more relaxed Santa Cruz, writes Brett Atkinson.
What to see:
Dating back to 1907, the Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk is pure old-school Americana. Ride the ups and downs of the Giant Dipper, a heritage-listed wooden roller coaster that’s been rattling and rumbling since 1924, or experience the more gentle thrills of the 1911 Looff Carousel. Either way, it’s probably best to chow down on street tacos oracorn dog after the roller coaster. More contemporary rides combining excitement and sky-high Pacific Ocean views include the intense 3G action of the Cyclone.
During a visit to Santa Cruz by a Hawaiian prince in 1885, surfing was introduced to mainland North America, paving the way for Brian Wilson’s Beach Boys’ mini-symphonies and the establishment of the O’Neill surfwear label in 1960s California. Check out all the history at the Santa Cruz Surfing Museum, and if there’s a good swell there’ll definitely be a few board riders at Steamer Lane right under the museum’s historic Lighthouse Point location.
What to do:
You’ll probably hear (and smell) the local posse of California sea lions mooching around Santa Cruz Wharf before you actually see them, but they’re just one of the attractions on the longest wooden pier (837m) in the United States. Rustic restaurants including Stagnaro Brothers, still owned by a fishing family that moved here from Italy in the early 20th century, are great for a slap-up seafood meal.
Located on the wharf, Venture Quest can arrange a few days worth of sea kayaking adventures around Santa Cruz. Morning and afternoon paddlers usually say hi to local sea otters, while there are also special sunset departures and experiences exploring sea caves along the nearby coast. Humpback whales are often seen on guided kayaking trips departing from nearby Moss Landing from May to September.
Where to eat:
Equal parts independent counter-culture bookshop and innovative bistro, Bad Animal is the best place in town to get a handle on Santa Cruz’s bohemian past and foodie future.
On-trend organic and natural wines feature, along with seasonal dishes from pop-up menus crafted by culinary “artists in residence”. Right now, Californian chef Katherine Stern is on board as The Midway@Bad Animal, focusing on the Mediterranean-inspired farm-to-table flavours she showcases at Saturday morning’s Westside Farmers’ Market.
From Bad Animal it’s a short walk to the Abbott Square Market, Santa Cruz’s popular multicuisine food hall with everything from Cajun and Creole dishes at Roux Dat to grass-fed Central Coast beef and brioche buns at Belly Goat Burger.
Santa Cruz’s other destination dining precinct is across town in the West End, where standouts include Bantam for wood-fired pizza, and sourdough sandwiches at the Companion Bakeshop.
For Santa Cruz’s best icecream, The Penny Ice Creamery’s three locations serve up seasonal flavours like Meyer lemon and poppy seed, or bourbon and persimmon.
Where to drink:
With a tight-knit community of craft breweries and urban wineries, Santa Cruz’s West End offers the city’s best drinking. Humble Sea Brewing’s Foggy IPAs — a coastal Californian play on hazy IPAs — often use Kiwi hops from the Nelson Tasman region, with their popular Socks & Sandals IPA referencing a sartorial quirk practised by the region’s surfers during the cooler months of winter.
Just across the railway line, Santa Cruz Mountain Brewing’s compact taproom quickly overflows to fill a rustic outdoor courtyard with loyal locals and their wellbehaved dogs. Equally canine-friendly is Discretion Brewing in nearby Soquel, with traditional British, German and Belgian beer styles given a New World boost with Pacific Northwest hops.
Eight different cellar doors also feature amid the West End’s repurposed warehouses, most open for weekend wine tastings. Kick off with wild-fermented orange wines at the Surf City Vintners collective, or celebrate with local methode bubbles and crisp Californian rose´ at Equinox Sparkling Wines.
Sceptics and believers alike are impressed by the enthusiasm shown by Michael Rugg at his Bigfoot Discovery Museum near the Santa Cruz Mountains town of Felton. Afteraspot of cryptozoology pondering, adjourn to the Humble Sea Tavern at Felton’s historic Cremer House.
Where to stay:
Colourful decor, a focus on sustainability, and a convenient B&B location near downtown make the Pacific Blue Inn a top spot to relax and recharge. Bikes can be hired to take in Pacific views along Santa Cruz’s West Cliff Drive cycleway.
Getting there:
Travelling through Silicon Valley on Hwy 101, Santa Cruz is around 90 minutes south of San Francisco. A slower (around two hours), but more scenic alternative, is the coastal route along California’s famed Pacific Coast Highway (Hwy 1).