WINE O’CLOCK 6 of the best

Welcome to this fortnightly column; a down-to-earth look at some interesting local and international releases that have caught Mac Macpherson’s attention or proven themselves worthy of further discussion.

Ant Moore A+ Sauvignon Blanc 2021 – Marlborough Available from $19.99

After predominantly focusing their sales efforts on offshore markets, well-known Marlborough producer Ant Moore are returning to their roots with renewed interest in local distribution. Their small batch A+ range will be the driving force for New Zealand retailers, with the 2021 sauvignon blanc a particularly good expression of Marlborough’s signature varietal. On the nose this is a typically punchy release, with the tropical fruits and citrus notes that sauvignon fans adore. Those exuberant characters flow easily through to a fresh and crunchy palate that brings some mineral elements into play, while the finish is salivating with plenty of citrus acidity. A subtle saline touch adds another layer of interest, and the lasting impression is balanced and wonderfully vibrant.

Falconhead Viognier 2021 – Hawke’s Bay Available from $13.99

This is an absolute bargain – in fact I would go as far as to say the new release of Falconhead Viognier is one of the best-value wines currently available in the New Zealand market. Good viognier is all about exotic fruits and apricot flavours presented in a silky, lightly textural palate — and that’s exactly what you get here. The bouquet is an amalgam of orange blossom, white flower and semi-ripe stone fruits, while the palate shines with mouthfilling flavours of tangy apricot, wood spice and juicy, ripe citrus. Acidity is softly expressed, and the finish is clean and supple with an ethereal texture that lingers in the mouth. If you’re already a viognier fan, this would be an exemplary wine to have on hand whenever the mood strikes. If you’ve always been curious about viognier, but didn’t know where to start, this is a brilliant option to kick off what may be your new vinous obsession. I really can’t recommend it more highly. Match with Japanese cuisine for a magical experience.

Chateau d’Esclans Whispering Angel Rose´ 2020 – France Available from $41.99

Produced by Chateau d’ Esclans, Whispering Angel is one of the great success stories to come out of Southern France in recent memory, becoming one of the world’s most sought-after rose´s since its launch in 2006. Pitched to consumers as an aspirational brand, Whispering Angel can carry the same celebratory presence as Champagne in some markets — especially in the US where Chateau d’Esclans accounts for a staggering 20 per cent of all French Rose´ sales. The key to its success is that Whispering Angel is very, very good. Produced from a blend of grenache, rolle, cinsault and syrah, it is a bone-dry expression in the classic Cotes de Provence style, but the palate carries a wonderfully soft and creamy element that elevates Whispering Angel to a higher plane. Those creamy red berry and watermelon notes are countered by a distinct mineral line and layers of refreshing acidity on the finish. At $40+, it’s clear that Whispering Angel won’t be for everyone, but I urge you to find out what all the fuss is about. After your first glass, I’ll be very surprised if you don’t agree that it’s worth the price of admission. Match with good friends and a special alfresco lunch on a sunny autumn day.

Gladstone Vineyard Pinot Noir 2019 – Wairarapa Available from $18.99

This is a great option for people who like plenty of weight and generosity in their pinot noir. Brought to life by Wairarapa stalwarts Gladstone Vineyards, it’s an immediately attractive style that focuses on those dark savoury fruits that the region has become so well known for. The nose is loaded with black cherry / plum notes with some gamey complexity and hints of spice. The palate shares a similar array of flavours but brings some tarry oak and whole bunch fermentation characters into the conversation, with supple tannins and quite firm acidity. It’s quite a bold and mouthfilling wine by pinot standards, but those savoury fruits are expressed with a deft touch. Match with a hearty cassoulet or garlic-laden roasted root vegetables.

Chemin des Papes Cotes du Rhone Rouge 2019 - France Available from $17.99

You’ve heard it here before. Cotes du Rhone is a very safe and rewarding option for Kiwis looking to explore the vast and diverse world of French red wine. Cotes du Rhone is typically produced from grenache and syrah. Grenache bring very plush, weighty “pinot noir-esque” characters to the table, while French Syrah shares a similar flavour profile to its Kiwi cousin. Given our national obsession with pinot noir and syrah, it’s easy to see why Cotes du Rhone is so popular here and a glass of Chemin des Papes is sure to be strangely familiar to Kiwi red wine drinkers. The difference is the palate weight. Those lavish dark fruits from the grenache component offer a luxe element seldom seen in NZ reds, while a nice mocha note, and some herbal tinges bring further interest and roundness. t Crack a bottle with a leg of lamb spiked with rosemary and anchovy for a match made in heaven.

Geografico Pavonero Rosso d’Italia - Italy Available from $17.99

Here is something a bit different from the respected Geografico wine cooperative. Blended from fruit from Apulia, Sicily, Abruzzo and Trentino, Pavonero is an impressive nonvintage regional blend where the varietal mix is not released by the winery. Given the weight and power of this wine, I suspect primitivo and nero d’avola play a prime role in the bottling — perhaps with some montepulciano adding a layer of softer fruits in support. The palate is fulsome, broad and laden with silken dark fruits. The tannins are rounded and soft, further accentuating those generous flavours and the finish is supple and long. If you like the dark, spicy attributes of primitivo and nero d’avola, and like the idea of affordable luxury, Pavonero will be just what the doctor ordered.