Live it like you belong
Gone are the days when being central was everything; we’re in the era of the neighbourhood, where you can experience a city like a local, writes Chris Leadbeater
There is plenty to be said for travels along the beaten track — certainly when it comes to city breaks. Stick to the very heart of your chosen destination for a long weekend, and you will be dealing with major monuments and known quantities. In Paris, that might mean the 7th arrondissement, in the very shadow of the Eiffel Tower. In Barcelona, it might be El Raval, where Gaudi’s Palau Guell casts elegant eyes towards the busy thoroughfare of La Rambla. In Rome, it might be Trevi, where the fountain of the same name can be your plaything. Check into a hotel here, and you have everything you need for your time away.
Except, perhaps, surprises. And a sense of discovery. And, maybe, the buzz of chatter that you find in a neighbourhood restaurant — where locals gather on a Friday night, and refuel over brunch and hangovers on a Saturday lunchtime. The problem with known quantities is that you know what you are getting; the trouble with the beaten track is that, for all its familiarity, it can usually be beaten — by somewhere cooler, sharper, a little out of the way.
Can you boost your city break by thinking — and staying — beyond the obvious? Absolutely. Although time tends to be short, it can pay to home in on a less-acknowledged district that’s gained traction with locals — where every corner isn’t a crowd scene, and the cafes aren’t just catering (sloppily) to the tourist dollar/euro/ krona. Find a hotel here — a side-street boutique affair; a hidden treasure with a rooftop bar — and you can have a best of both worlds: All the significant sights and A-list attractions you could wish for, within a few metro stops, but also calm mornings, lengthy breakfasts, and that quietly thrilling feeling that comes with seeing a city as it sees itself — hair down and shoes off.
Where exactly? Destination experts and writers pick their favourite not-entirely-central, often up-and-coming parts of some of Europe’s best-loved cities — and, in each case, a fabulous hotel in the midst of it, from which to watch this particular version of the world go by.
From Dublin to Dubrovnik, and Madrid to Marseille, via Berlin and Barcelona, these are the relative backwaters where your break can come with a local accent.
BARCELONA The neighbourhood: Poblenou
Barcelona’s former industrial barrio, Poblenou, still has a utilitarian look to it, but its factories have long since been converted into loft apartments and its garages into cocktail bars. Set apart from the Old City, it has escaped the worst ravages of tourism and appeals to a young mix of Catalans and foreigners, who set up their design agencies, tech companies and homes here. A stone’s throw from the beach, Poblenou is home to the world-class Primavera Sound festival in May, along with several art and design museums. Its beating heart is Razzmatazz, a legendary fixture on the nightclub and live music scene.
The hotel: The Hoxton
Poblenou is Barcelona’s East End in more ways than one, so it’s the perfect setting for the achingly hip but determinedly relaxed Hoxton, the group’s fourth hotel outside the UK. The terracotta floors and lichen-green paintwork and headboards make a refreshing change from the beige blandness of so many Barcelona hotels, and the two restaurants
— one serving pizza by the slice, one serving tacos — set the unpretentious tone. The best spot is the rooftop, where oversized plants and shaded daybeds surround a colourfully tiled pool. — Sally Davies
DUBLIN The neighbourhood: Capel St
On the north bank of the River Liffey, in its Georgian heyday, this was one of the city’s grandest streets, but the ensuing centuries were not kind. Newly pedestrianised in 2022, it’s now enjoying its status as one of Dublin’s coolest thoroughfares and is a microcosm of Ireland’s ever-evolving multicultural makeup. This area is still one of the capital’s authentic, largely ungentrified working-class neighbourhoods, drawing a creative crowd attracted to its rougharound-the-edges charm and diverse social scene. Hipster cafes rub up against traditional hardware stores and grocery shops, as well as night-time hotspots such as the alcohol-free Virgin Mary
Bar and the glamorous LGBT+ PantiBar.
The hotel: Zanzibar Locke
Carved out of a Georgian terrace, Zanzibar Locke overlooks the lazy flow of the River Liffey. This was the first of design-led disruptor Locke’s properties to open outside the UK, with its winning formula that fuses home comforts (kitchens and laundry facilities) with the perks of a hotel, such as coworking spaces, a gym and the Baraza restaurant and bar run by local restaurateurs NolaClan. Its 160 rooms, showing off gently industrial interiors with exposed brick walls and wooden floors are softened by pastel hues and simple Scandinavian-style furniture and range
from dinky Studios to Duplex suites with river views. —
ROME The neighbourhood: Monti
Historic Rome doesn’t fuss much about fleeting fashions, but the city’s buzz does slowly shift as neighbourhoods pass in and out of grace. Historic Monti, once Rome’s seedy red-light district, is now home to funky independent boutiques, vintage shops and the city’s top aperitivo scene. It’s set just above the Colosseum, far enough to avoid the hordes, small enough to explore in heels and retains a delightful mix of old-school stodge and trendy verve that is uniquely Roma. Spend a few hours treasure hunting for artisan fashion and homewares, lay claim to a sidewalk table in Piazza della Madonna dei Monti to sip your spritz while people-watching, and end your day over pasta and wine at the ivy-draped Ai Tre Scalini.
The hotel: Fifteen Keys
Boutique Fifteen Keys captures the timelessly cool vibe of its Monti home with chic, retroinspired interiors and a sophisticated yet laidback atmosphere. Most of the 15 rooms face the internal courtyard, so you can enjoy the area’s nightlife without it encroaching on your slumber, and the townhouse hotel’s 24-hour staff ensures easy nightcaps no matter how late you come in. The hotel revels in its fashionable location, ready with insider shopping and dining tips to point you to the latest hotspots and free vintage-style Dudebikes to get guests there. — Rebecca Winke
AMSTERDAM The neighbourhood: Noord
A five-minute ferry-hop across the IJ, behind Centraal Station, Amsterdam North startles with its 20 storey-high A’dam Toren (a hotel, skybar, music studios and more) and the crystal-white aerodynamic zigzag of the EYE Film Museum. It’s a world away from the dinky-gable charm of the Old Town, a hot-and-hopping new quarter that has transformed former industrial terrain and dockland: the old NDSM shipyard, now a vortex of street art and party events; venues such as Pllek for good food, clubbing, and a summer beachcinema; or the floating sustainable community of De
Ceuvel, which has a great cafe.
The hotel: Sir Adam
The first seven floors of the A’dam Toren, the focal point of the quarter, are filled with the Sir Adam Hotel and its mix of 1970s retro, funkythemed lifts and a crackling clientele of creatives and musos lured by the surrounding venues and studios. Rooms have old-style turntables and vinyl to beat away the blues, and real Gibson guitars on the wall. Sir Adam shares lounge space with The Butcher Social Club, a hip bar and burger joint that rocks until late, and up on the 20th floor, Madam skybar offers magnificent views over Old Amsterdam, and shapeshifts into a club at weekends. — Rodney Bolt
LISBON The neighbourhood: Principe Real
Principe Real has been the up-and-coming district in Lisbon for sufficiently long that it can now jettison that prefix and just be the place to go. Here faded 18th-century palaces jostle with brand-new concept stores (don’t miss the neoMoorish Embaixada, which houses a raft of Portuguese brands and designers) and restaurants line the cobbled streets. Try Tapisco, an Iberian blend of Spanish tapas and Portuguese petiscos courtesy of one of the country’s best chefs, Henrique Sa Pessoa. Walk it all off in the tropically lush Botanical Gardens, marked by a row of seriously soaring palm trees.
The hotel: Mama Shelter
Mama Shelter’s affordable and playful approach to hospitality is shaking up the Lisbon hotel scene, from its Spiderman masks in the 130 bedrooms to the restaurant decorated with
Bordallo Pinheiro fish ceramics. The hotel is pulling in the locals too with its pizzas, DJ evenings and rooftop bar. For tourists, the hotel makes exploring Lisbon a breeze, arming you with a map, insider knowledge and help calling cabs if you need it — and all with a smile. — Mary Lussiana
BERLIN The neighbourhood: Kanststrasse
The scruffy parallel sister street to upscale west Berlin shopping hotspot Ku’damm has been gradually transforming itself into a foodie destination, especially for fans of Asian cuisine. Long-established Chinese restaurants such as Good Friends and Aroma are nowadays joined by authentic Thai (Dao), lowkey Taiwanese (Lon Men’s, famed for its dim sum and noodle soups), Korean street-food (Son Kitchen). There’s fine dining too, notably at 893 Ryo¯tei, whose dapper interior and Nikkei fusion menu are hidden behind a graffiti-spattered facade. When your stomach is full, catch a musical at the historic Theatre des Westens, a jazz concert at neighbouring Quasimodo, or a photo exhibition at the prestigious Camera Work gallery.
The hotel: Wilmina
Wilmina opened in 2022 in the former Charlottenburg Women’s Prison at the western end of Kantstrasse. The half-hour stroll from its front door to Zoologischer Bahnhof will take you through elegant Savignyplatz and past all the above-mentioned places. Although you might not want to eat at the hotel’s in-house restaurant (Lovis) with so many dining options right outside, you won’t want to miss the rooftop terrace, library, bar or spa. For a tranquil contrast to the bustle of the boulevard, snag a garden room, with views over the lush courtyard greenery through windows entwined with ivy and vines. Bikes are also available to hire. — Paul Sullivan
DUBROVNIK The neighbourhood: Gruz
Gruz port, just over 3km west of Dubrovnik’s old town, is an ideal base for trips to nearby islands — from here you have local ferries to the tiny Elafiti islets, plus fast catamarans to Mljet, Korcula and Hvar. Dubrovnik’s most upand-coming neighbourhood is also home to TUP, a former factory that now hosts concerts, a recording studio, ceramics workshops and yoga classes, while the adjoining Red History Museum offers a glimpse into Yugoslav lifestyle and design. Another treat is Gruzˇ‘s open-air market, where locals sell seasonal fruit and vegetables.
The hotel: Hotel Porto
As its name suggests, Hotel Porto lies close to Gruz port itself, a five-minute walk away. It has 36 spacious rooms and suites with contemporary furnishings, wooden floors and slick bathrooms. Most but not all come with balconies, and suites sleep four, making them ideal for families. Expect a generous buffet breakfast (served until noon) and an all-day bar doing snacks as well as drinks. For guests with cars, the hotel has its own underground garage, a real bonus in Dubrovnik, where parking is notoriously difficult.
— Jane Foster
ATHENS The neighbourhood: Piraeus
Once just the place where you caught a ferry to the islands, over the past decade Athens’ gritty down-at-heel port Piraeus has had a major makeover. With a slew of world-renowned galleries — including ex-Istanbul art haven Rodeo and Beirut’s Carwan — setting up shop in repurposed warehouses along Polydefkous street; hip nightclubs opening their doors in the cobbled alleys of the Troumba red-light district; a new metro linking Piraeus to the Parthenon in 15 minutes and a shiny new underwater antiquities museum in the pipeline, this underthe-radar Athenian suburb is now a destination in its own right.
The hotel: The Alex
Set among pastel-coloured neoclassical mansions in Piraeus’ Kastella enclave, the four-storey, four-star Alex hotel makes a stylish base for exploring Piraeus. Its glass-walled lobby bar doubles as a co-working space while rooms are cosy rooms with plump beds. Other than panoramic views over the city’s sandy beach-lined Riviera, perks here include proximity to Mikro Limano, Piraeus’ pretty fishing port that is home to some of the city’s best seafood restaurants. Then there’s the Nest, the hotel’s rooftop barrestaurant with a decked wooden balcony jutting out over the shimmering Saronic Gulf, where chef George Bakas serves up sumptuous Medinspired dishes. — Heidi Fuller-love
MARSEILLE The neighbourhood: Les Goudes
The unpretentious fishing hamlet of Les Goudes is a world away from Vieux Port’s tourist hubbub; the 1950s Marseille from a Marcel Pagnol novel. Expect unpolished vintage glamour and old-school tranquillity. Lounging on rocks in the city’s eighth arrondissement, Les Goudes entices urban creatives seeking quiet and nature enthusiasts in town for water sports and hiking in Les Calanques. Don’t miss the gentle stroll between cottage gardens and bewitching sea views along Rue Pite-Pite, an exhilarating scramble between rocks and World War II bunker ruins on Cap Croisette, and the peche du jour (catch of the day) with Bandol rose´ at 1948 local HQ L’Auberge du Corsaire — Chez Paul.
The hotel: TUBA
This boutique game-changer, in a 1960s diving club at the entrance to Les Goudes makes for a sublime bliss-out by the sea at any time of year. A sizzling new rooftop complements dinky cabin rooms with sea views, and a sauna takes the nip out of bracing sea dips. Raw-fish chefs Sylvain Rouscayrol and Paul-Henri Bayart, poached from Paris’ trendy Cache and Amagat restaurants for one season originally, are now here to stay and have been creating waves on Marseille’s food scene with their spectacular locavore gastronomy. — Nicola Williams
FLORENCE The neighbourhood: Oltrarno
Stretched along the south bank of the Arno is the uber-cool Oltrarno (“beyond the Arno”) neighbourhood, an intriguing mix of grand aristocratic palazzi, artisan workshops, quirky boutiques, trendy restaurants and cafes. In spite of the presence of important artistic treasures such as the Pitti Palace and Brancacci chapel, it still manages to avoid the worst of the tourist hordes. Shady Piazza Santo Spirito is the beating heart of the quarter; by day it hosts a produce market where locals gather for shopping, coffee and gossip while at night it morphs into one of the city’s most popular hangouts for food, drinks and the odd music event.
The hotel: Oltrarno Splendid
This 14-room guesthouse lies at the heart of the Oltrarno, inhabiting the top floors of the Renaissance palazzo. Brilliant design duo Betty Soldi and Matteo Perduca have cleverly blended aristocratic style and original features with their trademark mix of antique and vintage pieces, upcycled and repurposed curiosities. Rooms are all different; one is all gorgeous Toile de Jouy wallpaper, another features intricate stucco work, while the pink and grey love nest at the top of the house has wraparound views. The location (minutes’ walk from Piazza Santo Sprito) is brilliant for exploring Florence’s most vibrant neighbourhood, and guests are supplied with a map showing Betty and Matteo’s top tips for eating, drinking and shopping.
— Nicky Swallow
PARIS The neighbourhood: Saint-Ouen
Hold on to your chapeau, because this neighbourhood requires, quelle horreur, that you step outside of Paris’s arrondissements. For what is considered “Paris proper” is changing. In the run-up to the Olympics in 2024, there is a push to develop and integrate the close suburbs just outside the city, which are still very much accessible by Metro. Saint-Ouen, just north of the Peripherique ring-road, is most famous for its sprawling flea market, which dominates the area four days a week with its charming tapestry of vendors selling everything from inexpensive bric-a-brac to high-end rare antiques. There’s innovation in the air too, from cool bistros such as L’insurge to the impressive eco-quartier around the former industrial docks.
The hotel: MOB House
The original MOB, a design-focused boutique address aimed at a youthful, creative crowd, was the first of its kind in the area when it opened in 2017. MOB House, its younger sister, expands on the concept. The warehouselike structure is set around a pretty garden with heated 20m pool. Industrialchic rooms were designed by Philippe Starck, and the vibe is youthful and dynamic thanks to its open-plan groundfloor restaurant and crowd of local entrepreneurs and artists. Because it’s just outside the city limits, you get the boutique hotel experience for the price of a budget hotel within the city limits. That’s got to be good. — Hannah Meltzer
STOCKHOLM The neighbourhood: Sibirien
A historically remote and less populated location in the north of Vasastan is experiencing a revival, booming with creative studios, vibrant restaurants, and contemporary art. Everything
can be reached within a 15-minute radius from exhibitions to nightlife. The Stockholm Gallery District hosts the city’s top art venues, including Galerie Nordenhake, Cecilia Hillstrom and GSA Gallery, and you’ll find everything from Michelin-starred ventures Etoile and Agrikultur to neapolitan pizzas at Savoj, great cocktails at Svartengrens and special meat cuts from hipster butchers Lennart & Bror. Don’t miss the studio museum of sculptor Carl Eldh set in the beautiful bay Brunnsviken, just a few blocks away.
The hotel: Hotel Ruth
This 62-room hotel reopened in 2021 after a makeover. The restaurant is a collaboration with the next-door creperie, and art advisers Litz have filled the walls with works that can be purchased by guests. Everything from the cream cake served at breakfast to the custom-made furniture has a personal story behind it. The separate kitchen — stacked with home-made granola, chia pudding and vegan beetroot spread — feels very welcoming. Expect to find locals working in the living room during the day and meeting up for drinks in the evening. — Jonna Dagliden Hunt
SEVILLE The neighbourhood: San Lorenzo
Under-the-radar San Lorenzo is sandwiched between the Alameda and the river. Plaza San Lorenzo is home to the revered Basilica de Jesus del Gran Poder church and one of Seville’s bestloved tapas bars, Eslava. Further north, the recently restored 13th-century Torre Don Fadrique, next to art and live music venue Espacio Santa Clara, was a mediaeval love-nest. For authentic, no-fuss dining, squeeze into cosy Antigua Abaceria de San Lorenzo, or try low-key, carefully crafted classics in a garage at La Cochera del Abuelo. Craft beer-lovers will appreciate the brews at Hops & Dreams — Rio Azul is a local favourite.
The hotel: Soho Boutique Sevilla
This small, chic converted mansion is set on a small side street just a five-minute walk outside the edge of the neighbourhood. The stunning, light-filled arcaded patio, with elegant wroughtiron railings and beautiful stained-glass ceiling feels tastefully palatial — take a seat on a curved petrol-blue sofa and flick through the Spanish fashion mags. Sashay up the original marble staircase to rooms featuring wooden parquet floors, colourful printed headboards and stylish velvet pendant lights and Lalique toiletries. Pop up to the terrace and take a dip in the bijou pool. — Fiona Flores Watson
MADRID The neighbourhood: Lavapies
Lavapies is edgy, queer and bursting with character, drawing creative crowds in search of cheerful bars, alternative fashion and world cuisine. This lively barrio, home to Madrid’s Bangladeshi, Senegalese and Moroccan communities, is the place to browse handmade textiles, artisanal pottery and your favourite spices. Hipsters queue for flat whites at Cafelito and Plantate, while lunch at Badila or Los Chuchis will leave you set for a siesta. Admire the street art walking near La Tabacalera — a cultural centre set in a former tobacco factory — or down Embajadores street, where you can stop at Tasca Barea for wine. For later, there’s modern Galician fare with a twist at La Lorenza, casual pintxos at Tribuletxe and craft cocktails at Savas.
The hotel: Casa du Soleil
This cosy boutique is aptly named for Spain’s sunny capital, and more so with Sol square less than a 10-minute walk away. Ibiza meets Marrakech in its soft, rustic decoration, inspired by easy-breezy Mediterranean life. Lounge in the open-air courtyards, with stone floors and touches of wood and terracotta making the space airy and cool. Beyond the light refreshments available in the “coffer corner”, manager Lucı´a is full of tips for local drinks and brunch spots. The stylish common area is decorated with wicker furniture, linen upholstery, distressed mirrors and abstract copper lighting pieces. —
COPENHAGEN The neighbourhood: Nordhavn
A six-minute Metro ride from central Copenhagen, the former industrial docklands of Nordhavn are being radically reinvented as a whole new district. Come here to live like one of the cool creatives who’ve colonised the area around Arhusgade, hanging out in the rooftop gym/playground of Konditaget Lu¨ders, joining the free Saturday yoga sessions on the Sandkaj boardwalk and taking daily dips in the harbour. Strict quality controls on local businesses make for classy places to shop, eat and drink: pick up eco-friendly clothing and accessories at Aiayu Market; try Andersen & Maillard for awardwinning pastries and Hija de Sanchez Taqueria for cut-above Mexican snacks; and head to 17thfloor Restaurant Silo for cocktails with a view.
The hotel: The Audo
In prime position on Arhusgade is The Audo, owned by Danish design brand Menu. Don’t expect a traditional hotel — this is more of a hybrid affair, serving as a design showroom, coworking and event space as well as housing 10 “residences”. Rooms are tastefully designed in typically restrained Scandi style, with oak floors, earthy paint shades and high-quality amenities including Dux beds, Frama toiletries and Bang & Olufsen speakers. The restaurant is home to Restaurant Haidan, bringing Chinese and Sicilian influences to Scandinavian seafood, and the hotel has bikes for guests to borrow. — Suzanne King
BUDAPEST The neighbourhood: The Palace Quarter
It’s been quite some time since Budapest’s Palace Quarter lived up to its name. Pocked with World War II bullet holes, this area of the 8th district — once the hottest postcode in town — lay faded and forgotten until a renaissance began. The Baroque mansions are getting fresh licks of pastel-coloured paint, standing as splendid as they were when the 19th-century great and good called them home. Cafes and bars have opened, often showcasing the latest art and live music, and Mikszath Square buzzes with students drinking at pavement tables. This is a bohemian quarter enjoying a right royal revival.
The hotel: Hotel Rum
In its six-floor townhouse a four-minute walk outside the edge of the neighbourhood, the boutique Hotel Rum is a blend of the yesteryear and the quirkily contemporary. At its heart are original features like a stone spiral staircase, but rooms are very much 21st century in style, combining industrial-chic — think exposed pipes and faux concrete floors — with softer, natural touches such as tables made from polished tree trunks. The Michelin-starred SALT restaurant sources its produce from a family farm, and you can finish your day with a nightcap in the rooftop bar. —