REYKJAVIK — LONG DAYS, LONG NIGHTS
Any time of year in Iceland’s capital is a delight, writes Paul Sullivan
When to go
Reykyavik’s summer isn’t exactly hot — typical highs are 13C — but it enjoys long, light evening and the best of the year’s weather. Winter offers the best chance of catching the Northern Lights, even if the temperatures are hitting zero. Getting there is a two-stop affair — LA direct on AirNZ (airnewzealand.co.nz) then Iceland Air (icelandair.com), or jet into the UK and fly with Ryanair (ryanair.com) Iceland Air, Wow Air (wowair.com )BA( britishairways.com )or easyJet (easyjet.com).
Stay here
Icelandair Hotel Reykjavik Natura on the harbour is stylish, with a spa and comfortable, modern rooms. Doubles from €130 ($220) including breakfast. There is also Kex Hostel (kexhostel.is), which has a great atmosphere and bar, and doubles for €45 ($76).
Walk here
Enjoy pretty Lake Tjornin to appreciate the relaxed ambience and birdlife — the adjacent town hall doubles as an exhibition space and tourist office. The harbour has traditional fishing boats and chic cafes. Stroll along Laugavegur, where you will find cafes, shops and bars. End at the city’s most distinctive landmark, the 75m Hallgrimskirkja church.
See this
The handsome National Gallery, set in a former factory along the harbour, constantly rotates pieces — mainly paintings and sculptures — from its vast collection of 19th- and 20th-century Icelandic artworks. Most of the country’s leading artists, including Johannes Kjarval and Sigurjon Olafsson, are on display (listasafn.is).
Try this
Take the lift to the top of Hallgrimskirkja church for excellent views over the city and beyond to the ocean and Mt Esja. Entry is €8 ($14) (hallgrimskirkja.is).
Shop here
Stroll along Laugavegur, with dozens of excellent indie boutiques as well as a few chains. Pick up quirky gifts and home decor at the excellent Hrim atNo25( hrim.is).
Drink here
Beer lovers will enjoy Skuli Craft Bar, which has about a dozen selected beers on tap, plus bottled options from local and international microbreweries. From €8 ($13) a bottle. The woodand-brick interior is cosy and you’ll be chatting locals in no time (facebook.com/skulicraft).
Eat here
Snaps Bistro is a great spot, serving everything from sandwiches and moules frites to steaks and locally caught fish (mains about €28 ($47). The bar also knocks up a mean cocktail (snaps.is).
Off the map
Laugardalslaug — in the northeast of the city — has a sprawling swimming complex with a large, heated outdoor pool and hot tubs. (visitreykjavik.is/laugardalslaug)