BE SEASONABLE!
Autumn and winter in Queenstown and Arrowtown — what better time and place to explore, writes Maggie Wicks
Queenstown has always been a bit of a show-off. Beneath the mountains, beside the lake, with history, gastronomy, fine wine and snow fun on offer, we’ve always known that she has it going on.
And on a bright autumnal day, when you might find yourself sitting in the early afternoon sun, a glass of Central Otago pinot noir in hand, a stunning mountainous backdrop to stare at, this has got to be one of the most beautiful spots in New Zealand.
It’s a town full of adventure, full of food, full of enthusiastic wine experts. It’s a Downunder vibe with an international flavour.
At this time of year, the days dawn cold and bright — mist rises off the lake as the day warms up, just slightly — and the hot air balloons appear above the mountains before the sun rises.
Queenstown and neighbouring Arrowtown are seemingly built for autumn — the light warmth of a pinot noir, the way the lake and the mountains capture the sunrise and the sunset, the number of fireplaces that welcome you into foyers and pubs and restaurants.
The deciduous trees that Otago is so famous for — the ones whose leaves turn to shades of fire when the sun catches them — were planted by the gold miners in the 1850s and 1860s. The first grapes came not long after that, when a Frenchman, John Desire Feraud, planted them in 1863, but it was in the 80s that Central Otago’s wine legacy began, with Alan Brady’s first vines in the Gibbston Valley.
Autumn is the most settled time of year, but when the wind picks up, those fire-coloured leaves will disappear for another year. What better time and place to explore some of the best food that Aotearoa can offer?
Wet Jacket Wines
Who knew a sheep shed could be so chic. Step into this humble building — constructed from stone and corrugated iron, and still smelling of its original use, but somehow in a savoury and interesting way — make your way past the deli offering speciality cheese, charcuterie and preserves, and you’ll find yourself in the Wet Jacket tasting room.
There is a roaring fire to get comfortable in front of, and a full range of wines, which are delicious and interesting and beautifully presented.
Wine drinkers can tend to put themselves into a grape tribe (hey, sauv blanc drinkers), but the wineries around Queenstown offer a couple of surprises. At Wet Jacket, we tried sauvignon that was tropical but with none of the sharpness you might expect of a sauv, and a pinot noir that felt rich and oily, in a divine way, I swear. wetjacket.nz
Canyon Brewing
On the one hand, this is a sunny picturesque spot, ideal for families in the late afternoon, adults only as the sun and the warmth drops away.
On the other, this is a den of craft beer geekery, a spot where any staff member can wax lyrical about sours and hops and fermentation — the process is all explained on the wall as you enter, in case they don’t have time to step you through it.
Sitting on the edge of the Shotover River, with fantastic views of the canyon, Canyon Brewing is both microbrewery and pub, with a range of inhouse and guest ales, and a restaurant on-site as well. Current craft beer fashion is fresh hop IPAs, and the range here was varied, interesting and delicious. They like a sour here, too — grab a tasting paddle to get through the whole range. canyonfoodandbrew. co.nz
Aosta
Regrets, I’ve had a few. Top of the list is failing to finish the kina pasta at Aosta. During an incredibly generous “Trust Us” banquet experience, this beautiful dish arrived, dark and moody. Half the pasta’s egg yolk has
been substituted with the richness of kina, making it taste so gently of the sea and the shaved pāua looked as humble as a sliced field mushroom. It was so delicious that even the nonseafood-lover at my table was on board.
The restaurant’s icon is Italy and NZ side by side but NZ flipped — how remarkable that there have been two boot-shaped countries all along, and both with regions sitting in the famous 45th parallel (it’s the cool climate of this famous latitude that gives wine regions such as Central Otago, Bordeaux and Oregon such favourable conditions for speciality grape growing).
This is Italian fine dining but with a Kiwi twist in every dish, such as beef tartare served in a dahi puri shell. For dessert, a
pre-constructed tiramisu, put together on a spinning plate, built up layer by layer at your table like a volcano, complete with a core of salted caramel icecream made molten as fresh espresso is poured on top. aosta.nz
Rātā
I never felt this way about a brussels sprout before. Don’t tell the tiramisu, but I think you’re the one.
These brussels are roasted to the point of being blackened, with not an iota of bitterness. They are served on labneh spiced subtly with cumin and lemon notes. There are candied walnuts and prosciutto draped across the small plate — a lavish cherry on top — but those brussels hold their own. They are dark magic.
Next to me, a couple express their
disappointment that the goat’s cheese profiteroles have disappeared from the menu. Fear, not madam, they’re still here and we’ll send some straight out.
Rātā‘s reputation precedes itself.
Its name tripped off the tongues of Queenstown visitors so often, I couldn’t not go. It is a little hidden away from the bustle of town, tucked behind a pub and the old courthouse. It’s bright and modern, with pale woods and dark curtains dividing the dining areas. One entire wall is taken up with a mossy New Zealand bush scene, all greens and browns, and natural stone is used throughout.
The music on a Sunday lunchtime is the kind of dream-pop that makes a midday glass of wine a surreally beautiful experience, sitting in the early afternoon sun, dining on the sweet and savoury perfection of warm figs with tarragon, chorizo jam and local cheese.
Here the famous local pinot noir is served in the
Central Otago
Riedel glass
— this is the only region outside Europe that has its own. Specially designed to showcase the unique qualities of pinot noir, the shape of the glass supposedly allows your wine to begin breathing within just nine seconds, as opposed to 35 seconds in a standard glass. This is a beautiful glass for both the experts and those who need their first sip in a hurry. If this meal wasn’t a step-by-step guide on to how to survive winter this year, I don’t want to know what is. ratadining.co.nz
Boat Shed Cafe
A brisk two-degree walk in the morning sun is going to earn you a hearty breakfast at one of the prettiest spots in Queenstown, the historic Boat Shed cafe. If you don’t fancy the walk, the water taxi can drop you off from either the Hilton across the lake or from town.
Set in the old Railways Shipping Office, the Boat Shed was built in 1869, and originally stood in central Queenstown.
The service is lovely, the view of course is sublime, the coffee is some of the best in town, and the menu is downright delicious. Don’t expect your usual eggs on toast, muesli and a fry-up. I tried a pecan, pumpkin seed, coconut and quinoa granola, which came with fresh fruit, whole toasted almonds, a breakfast panna cotta, and a smear of something fruity. Who knew granola could be so sexy? Rug up and sit on the back deck to get the best of the views. boatshedqueenstown.co.nz
Wakatipu Grill
What could be more comforting after a weekend of indulgence than the ease of a hotel restaurant? It’s like going out while staying in — you have to make the right level of effort, which is comfortable yet smart, casual, but with lippie.
At the Hilton’s Wakatipu Grill, the menu is a sure thing, a list of Kiwi favourites. From the fish and chips to the pizza menu, then a selection of steaks served with potato gratin, everyone’s a winner.
During the day the restaurant has fine views over the gardens and across the lake. For dinner, arrive early to catch the last glimpses, before the dim lights of Wakatipu Grill throw the views into darkness, allowing you to focus on that perfectly cooked steak.