Herald on Sunday

BOXING ON

Kangaroo Island has come back from disaster and is thriving again, writes Jessica Wynne Lockhart

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Tim and Tamsin Wendt spent five years meticulous­ly planning and building the Oceanview Eco Villas, environmen­tally friendly luxury accommodat­ion perched on the edge of their 200ha property.

Every element of the twobedroom villas — from the handcrafte­d wooden furniture to the carpets made of recycled fishing nets — was painstakin­gly sourced for sustainabi­lity. When the villas finally opened at the end of 2019, it was their dream brought to life.

“We want people to walk away feeling a connection to the place,” Tamsin says. Unfortunat­ely, 2020 had other plans. It’s a story heard from countless tour operators and accommodat­ion providers over the past 16 months. But for the Wendts, Covid-19 was actually their second hit.

Oceanview Eco Villas is on South Australia’s Kangaroo Island. Known as the “Galapagos of Australia” — both for its unique species and the ease with which visitors can spot wildlife, including wallabies, kangaroos, sea lions, echidnas and koalas — it was swept by catastroph­ic bushfires in early 2020. Nearly half of the island was destroyed, including the habitats of rare and endemic species, such as the glossy black cockatoo.

Today however, Kangaroo Island is no longer a scene of devastatio­n — it’s a place of new life. When my tour guide from Exceptiona­l Kangaroo Island pulls over at Bunker Hill, a lookout with sweeping views of Flinders Chase National Park, all I can see is brilliant green for miles.

Kangaroo Island’s native bush is regenerati­ng at a rapid pace, providing an important lesson in bushfire ecology. A critical component of the Australian landscape, fire can devastate, but it’s also needed to stimulate new growth and improve biodiversi­ty. In the past year, botanists have found plant species that haven’t been seen on the island for half a century, such as the endangered showy copper-wire daisy. That’s not the only surprising finding. Although ecologists feared the Kangaroo Island dunnart — one of the country’s most threatened species — had been wiped out by the fires, with 95 per cent habitat loss, it’s since been seen in the national park.

“It’s almost a once-in-a-lifetime chance to see Kangaroo Island in this state; where you can see how life can come out of total devastatio­n,” says Yale Norris, general manager of the Islander Estate Vineyards. “Nature is super-resilient. It finds a way.” He should know. During the bushfires, the Islander Estate lost 55,000 of its vines, along with its offices, lab buildings and irrigation systems. Only its off-site tasting room — nicknamed “the departure lounge” by locals for its proximity to the airport — was spared. Yet, based on the amount of regrowth they’ve already seen, Norris anticipate­s that within three years, 90 per cent of the vines will be producing fruit again.

On my final night on Kangaroo Island, Tim takes me for a nighttime tour of the Oceanview Eco Villas’ property. Shining a torch from the window of his ute, we spot dozens of tammar wallabies and kangaroos in the dark, feeding and even boxing.

In the aftermath of Kangaroo Island’s bushfires, social media and news reports made it seem like the island was entirely gone. Well, I’m pleased to tell you that reports of Kangaroo Island’s demise were greatly exaggerate­d. The island is alive and well worth visiting.

Do: Exceptiona­l Kangaroo Island's citizen science programmes

For more than 30 years, the family-owned Exceptiona­l Kangaroo Island has been showcasing the island’s best food and wildlife experience­s with its immersive itinerarie­s.

Now, it’s offering guests a chance to learn more about bushfire ecology and to give back with private citizen science experience­s. Visitors can monitor bird population­s with ornitholog­ist Dr David Paton, visit the field with echidna expert

Dr Peggy Rismiller, or learn more about glossy black cockatoo habitat restoratio­n on a new e-bike tour.

Drink: Kangaroo Island Spirits & The Islander

The Islander Estate Vineyards lost nearly everything in the 2020 bushfires. But a visit to its tasting room shouldn’t be made out of compassion; it should be made because it’s a good drop. A producer of cool climate wines, it’s worth paying the $30 tasting fee to try its premium flagship label. Afterwards, if you’re in the spirit to get some spirits, head down the road to Kangaroo Island Spirits. The distillery has won more than 100 global awards, including best contempora­ry gin in the world in 2019.

Stay: Oceanview Eco Villas

In the incredibly unlikely event that you don’t spot kangaroos in the wild, you’ll be sure to see them on Tim and Tamsin Wendt’s new Oceanview Eco Villas. It’s marketed as fully hosted, environmen­tally friendly luxury accommodat­ion, all of which is true. What you won’t see advertised is that the couple are also carers for rescue kangaroos, which guests may have the opportunit­y to bottle-feed. The highlight though is the inclusive food, which focuses heavily on local ingredient­s, such as Ligurian bee honey and Kangaroo Island sea salt.

 ??  ?? Wildlife experience­s with Exceptiona­l Kangaroo Island, South Australia. Photo / Jonathan van der Knaap
Wildlife experience­s with Exceptiona­l Kangaroo Island, South Australia. Photo / Jonathan van der Knaap
 ??  ?? Wildlife experience­s with Exceptiona­l Kangaroo Island, South Australia. Photo / Elliot Grafton
Wildlife experience­s with Exceptiona­l Kangaroo Island, South Australia. Photo / Elliot Grafton
 ??  ?? Views across Kangaroo Island, South Australia. Photo / Elliot Grafton
Views across Kangaroo Island, South Australia. Photo / Elliot Grafton

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