Lakes by the Ocean
Planning a Melbourne city break but want to do it with a difference? How about a side-trip to Victoria’s Gippsland Lakes region? Dani Wright explores.
Between Melbourne and the NSW border is a network of lakes, marshes and lagoons known as the Gippsland Lakes, Australia’s largest inland waterways. The lakes, spanning more than 400sq km (almost eight times the size of Sydney Harbour) are joined by rivers from the high country and include small islands and silt jetties (the second largest in the world) with intriguing local history.
To get an idea of how they fit together I start with a helicopter stand-up paddleboard tour with Sarah Carlisle of Venture Out and David Visser of Lakes Entrance Helicopters, who have created Australia’s only Heli-SUP tour.
“Most roads aren’t on the lakes, so you don’t know what’s there until you get out on the water or up in the air,” says David, a helicopter pilot in Lakes Entrance for more than a decade. “I’ve flown quite a few locals who are blown away by what’s out here.”
In perfect conditions, we fly over a trio of islands and the thin strip of sand dunes that separate the inland water from the ocean. We hover over a pod of dolphins just beyond the waves and out to the Lakes Entrance, where fishing trawlers head out to work in Bass Strait.
On a private island with a 100-year-old homestead, we’re gently taken back to land, to where our paddleboards have been transported by water taxi.
It’s an easy paddle from there back to the centre of Lakes Entrance past bach-like homes and sea birds skimming over the clearest water.
The best part is the bit I had worried most about — sliding into the current to be dragged out towards the Lakes Entrance and the open ocean. The plan is to take a quick left turn just before we get to the last landmass and jump off.
It’s fun riding the current without paddling, and very easy to dip out of the way and get to the land for morning tea and to watch a large seal sunning itself on a rock.
Over muesli bars and bananas, I hear about how Sarah started her outdoor tourism business after receiving an inheritance and wanting to put it to good use.
Back then, she set up a stall on the waterfront selling mountain bike tours. Through business savvy and hard work, she has grown the business to include a retail and rental hire business and the stand-up paddleboarding tours.
Her passion for the outdoors and adventure is inspirational. She says Heli-SUP is suitable for everyone, not just the weekend warriors — she can adapt it to suit.
Across the road from Sarah’s store is the wharf where I hop on a Peels Metung Luncheon Cruise into Lake King. We moor at the Metung Hotel for pub fish and chips and a stroll around the village green and shops.
Peels Cruises have been running for more than a century and the skipper’s narration of the region offers an insight into the islands we pass — apparently homes on some islands can only be passed down to family members — if there’s no one left, it is pulled down.
The next day, I’m back in Metung to sail on a 11m, twin-helm yacht with Cam Johns, owner of boat hire business Riviera Nautic. It’s a fresh wind as we pass trainee sailors with boats leaning over precariously but, as Cam shows me, there are plenty of sheltered spots to pull into and soon we’re sailing past people on their upper boat decks reading in the afternoon sun.
It’s easy to see why Riviera Nautic is an awardwinning tourism business with its 15 beautifully presented boats, and the ability to choose so many sailing options — immerse yourself in nature by sailing to a national park, stop by Barrier Landing to moor and scramble over sand dunes to the ocean beach, sail to the pub or stop at one of the many public destination jetties for casual berthing. “You can charter a boat here for a week and be in a different spot each day,” says Cam.
As we head back to the dock, I find myself dreaming of returning here one day for a longer sailing trip to discover those spots for myself.
Where to eat
Three years ago, Gippsland had no award-winning restaurants. It’s now home to three. The first, just 90-minutes from Melbourne is Hogget Kitchen, with floor to ceiling windows offering vineyard views and an open kitchen showcasing the skills of chef Trevor Perkins and his team, who use the nose-to-tail approach. Choose the “Let Trev Cook for You” five-course tasting menu.
In the authentic seaside town of Paynesville, the elegant Sardine Eatery & Bar is home to awardwinning chef Mark Briggs, offering a four-course tasting plate which, on my visit, included honey from Raymond Island (a 5-minute ferry ride from the restaurant) drizzled on to crispy zucchini flowers stuffed with goat’s cheese, Eden flame clams on pebbles and hand filleted sardines on vibrant green herb oil — art on a plate.
After working in top-end Melbourne restaurants, executive chef Nick Mahlook returned home to open Sodafish, a floating restaurant in the Lakes Entrance boat harbour (formerly the Raymond Island ferry), which shares its home on the wharf with the fishing fleet.
It showcases the freshest wild and sustainable fish and seafood, such as wood-fired scallop skewers, smoked mussels and lightly grilled flathead fillets with crinkle-cut chips.
Where to stay
Stay in the heart of Gippsland Lakes at Paynesville’s Captain’s Cove, boatshedthemed waterfront apartments. Or in Lakes Entrance at Waverley House Cottages for a bushland setting and a home-away-from-home cottage feel.