Shoot the breeze among special trees
Ta¯ne Mahuta has been standing a long time – 2000 years, give or take half a millennium – so most people touring Aotearoa will have paid a visit to the towering kauri in Northland’s Waipoua Forest.
The tallest kauri in the world at more than 51 metres, the main impression is of the sheer bulk of its trunk, which is nearly 18m high and 14m around. For those statistics alone, it is worth the stroll along the boardwalk through this strikingly luxuriant forest.
There is a better way to see it though. On a four-hour twilight tour with Footprints Waipoua, after public visiting hours, you get to visit Ta¯ ne Mahuta, Lord of the Forest, as well as the even more stately Te Matua Ngahere, Father of the Forest, and the oldest kauri, at 3000 years.
More than just seeing them as remarkable trees, you will learn the cultural background, hear the legends that surround them, and understand their significance to
Ma¯ ori.
WHY GO?
Because as big as these trees are, they are even more impressive when you are prepared for meeting them by someone as well-informed and passionate as guide Merepaea Kendall.
On the drive into the forest, she will tell you history and personal stories, give environmental explanations, and share Ma¯ ori customs. Arriving at the boardwalk entrance, the experience gets very special: no-one else is there, the day is drawing to a close, the birds are bolder, and the bush is more alive.
Kendall delivers a spinetingling greeting, her voice echoing through the trees, and all your senses dial up. The trees tower overhead, and seem even more dominant as they become silhouettes against a starry sky.
You might hear kiwi calling to each other, and ruru hooting as they hunt. The experience becomes spiritual, then you are brought back to reality with a cup of hot kawakawa tea and ma¯ nuka honey.
INSIDER TIP
You will want a photo standing in front of Ta¯ ne Mahuta, but ask your guide to take it – they know the scrolling secret to get it all in, close up and without distortion.
ON THE WAY/NEARBY
On the road to O¯ pononi, you have to stop at Pakia Hill Lookout over the heads of Hokianga Harbour, the sand dunes to the north making a striking contrast with the bushclad hills to the south.
Enjoy more of this spectacular scenery by turning into Signal Station Rd and driving to A¯ rai Te Uru Nature Reserve.
There is history there as well as great views, and the option to take the 20-minute return track to the point for the ultimate scenic experience.
In O¯ pononi, investigate the famous Opo the Dolphin story, and consider doing the remarkable Manea Footprints of Kupe experience. It is a winning combination of tradition and 4D.
HOW MUCH?
An adult costs $105, and a child (5-12 years) is $45.
BEST TIME TO GO
Tours run year-round, at 6pm in summer and 5pm in winter. Choose a fine evening for the most pleasant experience, and book ahead. Visit footprintswaipoua.co.nz
STAYING SAFE:
New Zealand is under Covid-19 restrictions. Proof of vaccination and vaccine exemption may be required at some venues under the traffic light system. Follow the instructions at covid19.govt.nz.