Last-Chance Summer
If you need a distraction from Omicron, Auckland has plenty of uncrowded, well ventilated places to explore within its boundaries. Peter Dragicevich visits the best of Auckland’s regional parks and outdoor attractions — starting in the south.
There are very few big cities in the world with Auckland’s abundance of geography. Stretching from Te Hana to Bombay, the Supercity encompasses three enormous harbours, large tracts of rainforest, various lakes and lagoons, at least three geothermal areas, myriad islands and, at last count, 53 volcanoes.
Of the city’s network of 28 official regional parks, only three are in South Auckland — but, given that it doesn’t fit neatly anywhere else, let’s kick off with the only one positioned on the Auckland isthmus itself, albeit right at its very southern edge. You may not have heard of Mutukaroa/Hamlin’s Hill Regional Park but chances are you’ve driven past it numerous times. If you’re heading north on the Southern Motorway it’s that elevated slice of farmland to the left, just after the Sylvia Park turnoff.
The main entry is via an unassuming carpark hidden amongst the scrappy building-supply depots, factory shops and used-car yards of Great South Rd. From here the 30-minute Hill Track heads through a small patch of regenerating bush before climbing gently to pasture at the crest of the hill. The views over Auckland are surprisingly expansive for a 65m summit, offering an interesting perspective of the shipping containers and light industry abutting Manukau Harbour.
Mutukaroa was the site of the largest undefended hilltop settlement in Ta¯ maki Makaurau — which makes the complete absence of explanatory signage baffling, as Auckland Council is usually pretty good at that kind of thing.
Between the 15th and the 17th centuries there was a large village here, complete with houses, fences and ha¯ ng¯ı pits. Incidentally, this is one of the few substantial hills on the isthmus that isn’t volcanic — unlike the smaller O¯ ta¯ huhu/ Mount Richmond, 1km to the south.
Much more impressive is Te Pane o Mataoho/Ma¯ ngere Mountain which, at 106m, is considerably higher than both — and, conveniently, it’s directly en route to our next regional park. Te Pane o Mataoho translates as “the head of Mataoho”, the god associated with eruptions, and this maunga leaves no doubt about its explosive past with two distinctive craters, the largest of which has a lava dome at its centre. It’s the fourth-highest and best-preserved of the city’s volcanic pa¯ sites, with plenty of terraces, pits and shell middens to discover.
From the mountain’s southern lip there are great views over one of Mataoho’s other calling cards, Ma¯ ngere Lagoon. This circular water-filled crater, with a scoria island at its centre, resulted from an explosion caused by cold water coming into contact with lava about 60,000 years ago. It’s one of six similar southside sites collectively known as Nga¯ Tapuwae a Mataoho (The Sacred Footprints of Mataoho) — although being sacred didn’t protect it from a 50-year tenure as the Ma¯ ngere poo ponds.
West of the mountain, at the tip of the peninsula, Ambury Regional Park is part of the ancient stonefields — remnants of large-scale Ma¯ ori horticulture — which stretched out from the maunga towards Ihuma¯ tao. It’s now the city’s premier farm park, offering city kids the chance to get better acquainted with cows, sheep, goats, horses, chickens, turkeys and peacocks.
Unlike Hamlin’s Hill, there are excellent information displays in the main carpark, which is the starting point of three short themed walks: Family Farm, Foreshore and Lost Gardens, the latter of which leads to the remnants of ancient stone mounds.
If gardens are your thing, the next regional park to the south should be top of your list. Established in 1982, the Auckland Botanic Gardens sprawl over 64ha abutting the Southern Motorway near Manurewa. The slick Huakaiwaka Visitor Centre near the entrance incorporates toilets, an art gallery and Cafe Miko (which has plenty of outdoor seating for the Covid-19 cautious). It’s a sprawling site, so the free maps are invaluable. At this time of the year, the rose garden, perennials and salvias are still going strong, and there’s the added attraction of the biennial Sculpture In The Gardens festival, which runs until April 3.
If it’s a proper expedition you’re after, put aside a day and head out to Awhitu ¯ Regional Park. Located near the south head of Manukau Harbour, it takes about an hour and a half to drive here from the central city. The reward is a large stilloperating farm with two beaches, bush, wetlands and salt meadows which can be explored on three marked walking tracks or via a 3km mountain-bike track. It’s only the distant glimpse of the Sky Tower on the horizon that serves as a reminder that you’re still within Auckland City limits.