Beyond Banh Mi
You’ve arrived in Ho Chi Minh City (formally Saigon) and dying to try all those street eats you’ve heard so much about…the crunchy-soft banh mi, the fragrant pho noodles, the fresh spring rolls. Good stuff. But if just scratching the surface of this vast culinary landscape is not enough, then these eight experiences below are your shortcut to this city’s most satisfying gastronomic delights. Grab your maps, prepare your small change, and don’t worry - you won’t leave disappointed.
Tamarind Crab – Fans of Ba Chi tamarind crab usually struggle to find words to describe how tasty this dish is. The crabs are chosen fresh, and cooked in a wok over extremely high heat with pork belly bits, lots of garlic, pepper and tamarind. The syrupy sauce is scooped up with crusty bread as you wait for the crabs to cool down enough to be tackled with your bare hands. Ba Chi Restaurant, 13 Pho Co Dien, District 5.
Lunch Lady – Made (more) famous by Anthony Bourdain’s TV show, No Reservations, the Lunch Lady of Hoang Sa is a favourite among locals working in offices along the canal that separates District 1 and Binh Thanh. Her heavenly noodles and complex broths are rotated from day to day, but whatever she serves is quickly devoured by legions of loyal diners, so show up early. Near 23 Hoang Sa, District 1.
Banh Xeo – Banh Xeo takes its name from the sizzling sound the batter makes as it hits the pan. Ho Chi Minh’s version of these crispy yellow pancakes is made from turmeric, rice flour and coconut milk, and is much larger than those served in Hanoi. Stuffed inside are more textural treats…beansprouts, mushroom, slices of pork, mung beans and a few shrimp. Take a bit of the banh xeo with its filling, wrap it with some mint and basil in a fresh lettuce leaf, dunk in mild fish sauce, and you have one of Vietnam’s most vibrant snacks. No Name, 1 Bac Hai St., District 10.
Cuc Gach Quan – Also known as the architect’s house and occupying a beautifully preserved Vietnamese villa, they serve flavourful country delicacies and family-style shared dishes in a relaxed, atmospheric setting. The menu is long, consistently outstanding; and its humble presentation only adds to the appeal. Their just-squeezed fruit juices are especially good, as is the grilled pork with pickled cabbage, the tofu with lemongrass and the stir-fried pumpkin flowers with garlic.10 Dang Tat, District 1.
Cha Ca – You don’t have to go to Hanoi to sample this 100-year-old secret recipe: the capital’s famous Cha Ca La Vong institution has a southern counterpart nestled in Ho Chi Minh’s central district. Be warned: it’s all too easy to become addicted to this dish. Here’s what we know: fatty catfish are marinated in turmeric, pepper and galangal and grilled before being pan-fried with butter, shallots and heaps of fresh dill and green onions. Cooked over an open flame at your table, a squeeze of lemon and a few slices of chilli enhance the dish as it comes together. (It’s all right to send back the fermented mam tom and request the lighter nuoc mam instead.) In your bowl, combine the cold ingredients - fresh herbs, vermicelli noodles, crunchy peanuts and top it all with the grilled fish and wilted dill from the pan. Magic! Cha Ca La Vong, 36 Ton That Thiep, District 1.
Vietnamese High Tea – A traditional pastime with a Vietnamese twist, the Lobby Lounge at the Caravelle Hotel is one of the few places where you can sit back with a view of historic Lam Son Square, and sample sweet and savoury nibbles from all around the country. Every afternoon the hotel offers a Vietnamese Tea loaded with local goodies and your choice of coffee or tea. On the savoury side there are fish cakes, shrimp mousse on lemongrass skewers, banana blossom salad and grilled beef in la lot leaves. From the sweet selection: steamed pandan rice cakes with ginger syrup and sweet lotus seed soup. Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, District 1.
Lau Hot Pot – Ho Chi Minh’s hotpot offerings are no less enticing, varied and delicious than the better-known versions served in the cooler cities up north. A bright sweet and sour seafood hotpot and a light red snapper and vegetable hotpot are the two types you’ll find most often on the tables of locals in the restaurants that open in the evenings just outside Ben Thanh market. The fun is in the preparation: dunking your chosen morsels and leaves into the bubbling broth, waiting for everything to get blanched or cooked through, and then slurping up the fruits of your labours with bites of soft bun noodles. Restaurants near Ben Thanh Market, or try Papaya, 68 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh Thanh District.
Banh Khot - These little grilled rice cakes are delicious when served piping hot with a plump shrimp in the centre and lots of fresh herbs and fish sauce. Originally from the nearby seaside town of Vung Tau, there are many different versions of banh khot - from large crispy patties to miniature circular bites. One of the best places to enjoy banh khot that’s very close to the Vung Tau version is at the rambunctious al fresco restaurant Hai Lua. Select your favourite leaves and herbs, and sink your teeth into this little-known but totally tasty appetiser. 11 Ngo Van Nam, District 1.