Family heirlooms
Recipes in honour of Nana
We lost our dear Nana Ngaire (Galloway, nee Lane) a few weeks ago. She was well-known for competing in the 1948 Olympics (swimming, backstroke), but, for me, it was her amazing home cooking that will remain my strongest memory.
When I was younger, Nana would pick me up after school on a Thursday, and we would spend the afternoon cooking a meal for the family. I think, because my parents weren’t great cooks, she decided she would make certain I was. This time spent cooking together has essentially shaped my whole life and career, leading me to first train as a chef and now as a food writer. Even up until recently, I would still often discuss recipes and methodology with Nana.
Although Nana could cook anything, I think soup was her mainstay, with most dinners beginning with a small bowl of soup. Onion soup was one of her favourites, so today I share this recipe in her honour (photographed in her own handcrafted pottery bowls).
Golden onion soup
This recipe should probably come with a warning, as some tears are guaranteed (wearing goggles is my best defence).
This is a lighter soup than French onion soup, however, if you want to make it richer, then saute the onions until sticky and caramelised and use beef stock.
Preparation time: 15 minutes Cooking time: 30 minutes Serves 4
500g brown onions (about 4 medium) 30g butter
1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh thyme 1 tablespoon flour
1 litre chicken or vegetable stock Small glass (150ml) white wine
1⁄2 teaspoon sugar
2 teaspoons worcestershire sauce 2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar salt and freshly cracked pepper to taste
Peel and slice the onions thinly – you can use the slicing attachment on a food processor.
Melt the butter in a large saucepan. Add the onions and cook over a low heat for about 15 minutes, until the onions have softened and are lightly coloured – make sure they don’t get too brown.
Stir through the flour, then add the stock, wine and sugar and cook for a further 15 minutes. Add the Worcestershire sauce and vinegar, and season to taste – the amount of salt required will depend on the type of stock used.
Serve hot with grilled cheese toast.
Caramelised onion tart with olive oil pastry
The pastry is a cinch to prepare, with a light flaky crumb, and no chilling required. A simple tart to continue with the onion theme.
Preparation time: 20 minutes Cooking time: 1 hour Serves 4
For the olive oil pastry
2 cups (300g) plain flour
1⁄2 teaspoon salt
1⁄2 teaspoon baking powder 100ml olive oil
100ml warm water
For the onion filling
1 tablespoon olive oil
500g brown onions, thinly sliced 1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh thyme 3 anchovies (optional – added for their umami saltiness)
200g feta
Combine the flour, salt and baking powder in a mixing bowl and make a well. Pour the oil into the well and mix briefly with a fork. Add the water and use the fork to bring the dough together. Tip onto the bench and knead briefly until the dough forms a ball. Place back in the bowl, cover with a plate and set aside while preparing the onions.
Heat a large frying pan over a high heat. Add the oil, onions and thyme, and saute for five minutes. Turn down the heat, add the anchovies and continue to cook for 20-25 minutes, stirring often until the onions are caramelised.
Tip onto a plate to cool. Preheat the oven to 200C (180C fan bake).
Tip the dough onto a lightly floured bench and roll into a large round about 4mm thick. Lift onto a lined baking tray. Spread the caramelised onions over the dough, leaving 3-4cm space around the edge. Dot with the feta, then fold up and pleat the sides to make a border. Bake for 25-30 minutes, until the pastry is golden. Serve the tart hot or cold alongside a crisp green salad.