FUTURE OF HAIR
The latest intel points to some very interesting developments in beauty. Expect to see boomer-friendly skincare, savvy suncreens, brands that care about the environment ... and, most of all, more power to the consumer.
Forget all about the one-size-fits-all approach. Individuality is in.
LESS IS MORE
This could be the year we pare our routines back. Research by market researcher Mintel suggests the days of overly complicated skincare regimens could be over. In the 12 months from May 2018, about 30 per cent of British women reduced the number of products in their skincare routines. Millennials were the most eager to simplify their skincare, with 54 per cent of those aged between 20 to 29 simplifying their routines. “Many will want fewer layers in their routines, so pared-back routines will be the overriding common denominator,” says skin and beauty expert Tracy May-Harriott of Tracy May Beauty.
The skin experts at New Zealand’s Caci agree. They believe that while many of us don’t have the time for a 10-step routine twice a day, we still want serious results from the skincare that we do decide to invest in.
“In a world where we are increasingly ‘busy’, consumers are demanding more from their products, investing in key products that have multi-tasking benefits, that deliver results ... stat!” says Katy Bacon, education manager for Murad Australasia Pacific. “[This year] will see more innovation around encapsulation and liposomal delivery that means we can load up on actives like retinol, niacinamide, hyaluronic acid and vitamin Cs to deliver the optimal results from a handful of multifunctional products.”
SMARTER SUNSCREENS
Given our awareness of New Zealand’s alarming rates of skin cancer, sunscreen is a summer essential. Yet traditional sunscreen formulas haven’t always played nice with certain skin types or when used alongside make-up. Clever sunscreens will be one of the products that dominate skincare in 2020, says May-Harriott.
Alphie Sadsad, national artistry lead for Sephora Australia and New Zealand, says we’re already starting to see beauty brands redefining sunscreen. “The textures of sunscreens specifically are a lot more sophisticated and less ‘greasy’,” he says. “Personally, having an olive complexion, sunscreen brands would usually make my skin appear lighter with a white or grey sheen: very unnatural. The innovation of skin health and sunscreen now offers more lightweight and natural formulas which are perfect for a pre-make-up primer, complementing the full beauty look.”
THE NEW EXPERT
In 2019 industry watchdog Estée Laundry became the corporate beauty world’s nemesis as well as the must-follow Instagram account for beauty buffs. Whether it was brands using excessive plastic packaging or Sunday Riley’s fake reviews scandal, the anonymous collective has become the voice of a new generation of beauty consumers.
Emma Hobson, director of education, Dermalogica Asia Pacific, says the savvy new-age beauty consumers of today will be in the driving seat for trends and changes. “Their voices will be loud and clear across the many channels of social media, making companies take accountability for the way they conduct business, be that in distribution, packaging, ingredient sourcing and product development, to marketing, treatment of their staff, and social responsibilities.”
Sadsad agrees that consumers continue to play a “huge part” in shaping the future of beauty. “More and more brands are creating products to suit what is trending and what consumers want. Brands are starting to become more interactive with their audiences in creating and launching products, too, and taking feedback on board,” he adds.
Bacon agrees, saying the new-age beauty consumer is increasingly savvy and socially aware. “Consumers rightly should be able to identify brands that resonate with their belief, philosophy or need,” she says. Bacon believes that it is up to individual brands to maintain transparency, ethical production and work towards sustainability. “I love the saying your ‘vibe attracts your tribe’,” says Bacon. “You can never be everything to everyone; however, businesses will continue to get better at communicating their philosophy and beliefs to their tribe and will need to learn to be more accountable in a digital world where options are plentiful and information is readily available.”
“CONSUMERS ARE DEMANDING MORE FROM THEIR PRODUCTS.” MURAD’S KATY BACON
BOOMER SKINCARE
Move over millennials; beauty insiders are predicting that 2020 will be the year for skincare solutions that talk to the unique needs and concerns of the older generations. “Over the last few years, brands have been focused on the younger consumer, driven mostly by the rise of social media, influencers and the millennial consumer,” explains Murad’s Bacon.
“This year will see a shift to meet the skincare demands of the 40+ market.”
By 2025, according to the North American Menopause Society, more than a billion women around the world will be experiencing menopause in 2025 – a fair size of the global population. “Recent studies have shown there are now more older people worldwide than ever before, and it’s expected by 2050, that one in six people will be over 65,” adds Bacon.
The skin undergoes a series of changes during perimenopause and menopause. Dryness, dullness, reduced elasticity and resilience and hormonal breakouts are a few of the skin concerns women can experience.
Wunderman Thompson Intelligence reports that there’s a clear shift away from ‘anti-ageing’ products as research found about 70 per cent of UK women aged 53 to 72 want beauty products that help them look and feel their best, rather than look younger.
“The changing face of beauty is all about personalised skincare and inclusivity,” says Bacon. “According to an Association of American Retired Persons report, 70 per cent of women aged 40 plus want to see more beauty products targeting perimenopausal and menopausal women.”
So while there are a handful of niche brands that talk directly to the skin concerns of women going through menopause, expect to see more options, innovations and new brands emerge to target these specific skin needs in the near future.
CLEVER GADGETS
Innovative beauty gadgets and devices will play a big role in our beauty routines in 2020. Technology that has only been available in clinic will make its way into the home, too. Environ’s Electro-Sonic DF Mobile Device is once such tool. The at-home hand-held device allows users to recreate professional-like facials in their own home by using sonophoresis (sound waves) and pulsed iontophoresis (electric current) to improve texture, radiance and hydration.
As in-clinic treatments become more popular, consumers will need to choose their providers wisely.
Microneedling can enhance the production of new collagen and elastin, helping to plump and rejuvenate the skin. Visiting clinics that use the latest technology and treatment methods will ensure you get the results you’re after. Looking for a trusted Gold Authorised Treatment Provider is the perfect place to start.
GOODBYE, OVERDONE LOOK
Appearance medicine will continue to become more accessible and acceptable, according to experts. The ‘overdone’ look has been in the spotlight recently thanks to various celebrities, but leading cosmetic medicine doctor Sarah Hart of Skin Institute says it’s a look that’s already on its way out. “Most international celebrities are actually getting great, subtle ‘work’ and everybody thinks they’re ageing well,” says Hart. “The overdone look is seen more in ‘influencers’ whose celebrity depends on getting attention, whether that’s for positive or negative reasons.” In New Zealand and Australia, patients often raise the concern of ‘looking overdone’. Hart says she’s frequently asked by her clients to ensure that treatments look natural.
“I don’t think that look will ever be big in New Zealand. We prefer an understated look in dress, hair and make-up, and our celebrities embrace natural beauty. Think Lorde versus Britney Spears; our Rachel Hunter versus Kim Kardashian; Kiri Te Kanawa, not Dolly Parton. Natural is deep in our Kiwi nature and is unlikely to change.”
THINK OF THE PLANET
Many of us already prefer to spend money with brands whose values align with our own. Soon we’ll see more brands adapt to better align themselves with a growing environmentally minded consumer base.
“Everyone is taking more thought over the story behind products, packaging and global impact, looking at things like the amount of water we use, the provenance of ingredients and the backstory to brands,” says May-Harriott. She adds that while there is a plethora of new, indie brands that use sustainability as a selling point, she believes consumers will start to delve deeper into their backstories to find out just how sustainable all these emerging brands really are.
“With the environment being front and centre of many people’s minds and major concerns, there is increasing momentum and emphasis on products and services being mindful, respective and supportive towards the environmental impact they have,” says Hobson. “Every aspect is being put under the consumer microscope, where the ingredients are sourced; where and how products are manufactured, packaged and transported; how businesses conduct themselves; the social impact they have; what disposables salons chose to use; their recycling processes ... and the list goes on. If a brand or business does not have a sustainability plan in action already with goals they have set themselves, then they just may not be around in the next five to 10 years.”
SMARTER SOURCING
As the focus on the beauty world’s impact on the environment intensifies, every aspect of the industry will be scrutinised and challenged by consumers. Beauty consumers are realising that naturally derived ingredients aren’t always sustainable. “With the demand for ‘natural’ increasing, awareness of the impact that high demands on natural ingredients have on our environment is also increasing,” says Bacon. “Consumers are beginning to question whether natural is actually better for you, or even sustainable,” says Bacon. “As an example, frankincense, a heavily used oil in cosmetics, is now listed as endangered.”
According to trend forecaster WGSN, the sourcing of materials will come under the spotlight more than ever before in 2020. In fact, more than 10,000 medicinal plants are on the International Union for Conservation of Nature’s Red List of Threatened Species due to overharvesting in the wild.
The trend forecaster believes there are a number of sourcing practices beauty manufacturers will need to adopt to become truly sustainable. Researching exotic ingredients, buying in bulk and benefit-sharing – companies sharing their success, through profit or development schemes with the communities they source ingredients from – are just a handful of the ways that WGSN believe brands will need to adapt their sourcing means and methods. “Ingredients should be sustainably sourced and packaged with minimal environmental impact,” says Bacon.
Wildcrafting – the practice of foraging for and harvesting plants from their natural environment – is a trend from the food world we might start to use more frequently as a means for sourcing raw materials.
“NATURAL IS DEEP IN OUR KIWI NATURE AND UNLIKELY TO CHANGE.” DR SARAH HART
VEGAN LEADS THE NICHE PACK
Not long ago, finding a vegan-friendly beauty brand was akin to finding a needle in a haystack. Fortunately for the ever-growing number of vegan beauty consumers that’s no longer true. According to market researcher Mintel, vegan claims trebled in haircare between 2014 and 2018, with 20 per cent of all launches within the UK featuring a vegan claim.
“This expectation for tailored products, from transparent, authentic companies, will only continue to increase in popularity and demand,” says Hobson. She believes we will see an increase of niche brands and new niche trends emerging: for example halal, vegan, eco-sustainable and genderless beauty.
“Sephora clients are aligning themselves with their chosen lifestyle more so each year, and they’re not afraid to speak about it,” says Sadsad. His team are constantly being asked questions on product transparency and sustainability. “Vegan and clean beauty brands will continue to rise in 2020,” he says.
REDEFINING CLEAN & GREEN
The natural beauty movement won’t be going anywhere any time soon, which means greenwashing and confusing claims will remain a prevalent issue within the natural sector. “With more and more brands declaring themselves ‘natural’ or ‘clean’, the natural beauty movement is expected to continue to thrive,” says Bacon.
“There is a lot of confusion and misinformation when it comes to these statements, especially when it comes to the belief that ‘natural is safer’ which is not necessarily the case.” As she points out, natural does not always mean safer, just as synthetic or nature-identical ingredients are not necessarily harmful.
In 2020 we’ll see switched-on beauty consumers challenge claims by beauty brands more often. “Expect to see consumers driving research into these terms as awareness of misleading claims grows,” says Bacon.
Recent changes to the European cosmetics regulations could have a trickle-down effect in the Southern Hemisphere, too.
As Bacon explains, the new regulations that came into play in late 2019 make it much harder for cosmetic brands to make certain claims. “European regulations now restrict the use of ‘free-from’ claims for marketing cosmetic products,” she says.
“[That is] due to the inaccurate implication that a product is ‘better’ or ‘safer’ for the consumer or the environment if it’s perceivably ‘natural’ or ‘clean’ and free of ingredients such as gluten and parabens, for example.”
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We talk about microneedling in this article. But what is it? In the quest for radiant, healthy skin MiNDFOOD STYLE editor, Nicole Saunders, puts microneedling to the test. mindfood.com/article-microneedling