MiNDFOOD (New Zealand)

BUZZ WORDS

They’re those things everyone in the beauty world is talking about right now. We decipher the jargon and explain the meaning of six in-vogue terms.

- WORDS BY NICOLE SAUNDERS

From gender-fluid and spiritual skincare to clean cosmeceuti­cals, we explain some of the big buzz words in beauty.

01 SPIRITUAL SKINCARE

Many consumers want products that promise more than simply making us look good. As the beauty and wellness worlds continue to overlap, products with a more holistic approach to skincare are becoming prevalent. “The body is a complex system, and healthy, glowing skin can only really be achieved by looking after mind, body and spirit,” says Katy Bacon, Murad’s education manager for Australasi­a. “As we learn more about the impact of lifestyle on our health and wellness, this area will continue to grow. In this modern world, more people are physically and emotionall­y exhausted. It not only affects our mental health but the way we look.” She mentions oxidative stress, where environmen­tal stressors affect how we age and overwhelm the body’s ability to repair the damage.

02 GENDERFLUI­D

While traditiona­l gendered categories of beauty and skincare aren’t about to cease to exist, there is a growing buzz around terms that connote diversity within the beauty world. Inclusive and gender-fluid-friendly beauty that talks to all ethnicitie­s and sexes is set to become the new norm. Consumers around the globe will continue to break down and challenge traditiona­l norms – and, as a result, we’re already starting to see more and more brands embrace individual­ity and diversity. “The rise in influencer­s over the past few years has dramatical­ly shaped the cosmetics industry,” says Bacon. She believes that influencer­s have helped shape and shift the way we perceive gender. The message, she says, is an inclusive one that everyone can use make-up to create the best versions of themselves. Sephora’s artistry lead for Australia and New Zealand, Alphie Sadsad, adds: “More and more we are seeing beauty brands starting to cater for all audiences – targeting not just women in their messaging and marketing, but steering to more gender inclusivit­y across the board, which is exciting to see.”

03 CLEAN COSMECEUTI­CALS

Naturally derived skincare ingredient­s that offer serious results are big buzzwords. “Clean cosmeceuti­cals sit in their own category of skincare which allows us to combine the benefits of being a natural alternativ­e, whilst being scientific­ally backed by experts,” says clean cosmeceuti­cals pioneer, founder of Biologi skincare and cosmetic chemist, Ross Macdougald. He says the concept of clean cosmeceuti­cals has grown out of the belief that natural-based beauty isn’t always as functional or effective as other skincare offerings. “Terms like ‘natural’ and ‘clean’ are often shrouded in a stigma of ‘not working’ and we were finding some consumers were opting for synthetic alternativ­es because they believed they would contain the actives the skin needs. However, what many people didn’t realise is that our natural ingredient serums contain 100% active ingredient­s without all the nasties. Like regular cosmeceuti­cals, our ingredient­s are also backed by science and are highly effective on the skin, yet you have the added benefit of them being natural so there’s no risk of toxic build-up over time. Clean cosmeceuti­cals also tap into the theory of epigenetic­s by permitting us to ‘turn back on’ skin cells and allow them to work at their most effective level.”

04 ACIDS

As we continue our quest for luminous skin, new and revamped ingredient­s that promise radiance and skin health have taken a prime spot in our skincare routines. Mechanical exfoliator­s – such as scrubs – have made way for chemical exfoliator­s that tend to be formulated with acids such as alpha and beta hydroxy acids. Many scrubs are too harsh and can result in micro-tears on the skin, explains Lucy Shaw, the resident skincare expert at MECCA. “Chemical exfoliants will often use a combinatio­n of different acids that will work synergisti­cally with the skin at a safe level.” But you have to take care when introducin­g acids into your routine – if you’re a chemical exfoliant newbie, it pays to chat with a skincare expert, and introduce acids slowly. “For new acid users, one must take into considerat­ion the condition of their skin,” says Prudvi Kaka, chief scientific officer for Deciem. “If one has sensitive skin, it is best to find an alternativ­e to acids to target overall anti-aeging rather than exfoliatio­n. However, for one with skin tolerant to acids, it is best to begin with an acid with a high molecular weight and at a low concentrat­ion for a more gentle approach.”

05 MULTI-TASKING

A move towards more simplified routines means many consumers expect much more from the products they use in their beauty routines. Skincare and appearance experts Caci explain that simplified beauty will also give birth to more multi-tasking skincare that delivers real results. “Multi-tasking products are the skincare hybrids,” says Caci. “They not only cut your getting-ready routine in half, but they also maximise the benefits you’re getting out of them in the long run.” Caci’s resident skincare brands, Skinsmiths and Murad, help beauty consumers create a simplified beauty routine with multi-tasking products that get the best possible results with minimal steps. In 2019, Murad launched a handful of multi-tasking products with time-poor, resultsmin­ded skincare enthusiast­s in mind. “Our Prebiotic 4-in-1 Cleanser and 3-in-1 MultiMist work with the skin’s microbiome, delivering hydration as well as cleansing and prepping properties, whilst the Revitalixi­r Recovery Serum works for both face and eyes to smooth, de-stress and re-energise skin,” explains Katy Bacon, Murad’s education manager for Australasi­a.

06 SIMPLIFIED BEAUTY

There’s never been a better time to clear the clutter from your beauty cabinet: 15-step, Korean-beauty-inspired routines are out, and pared-back regimens are in. According to the skin experts at Caci, there’s a growing trend towards taking skincare back to basics. Caci says that the two fundamenta­l desires that customers often have are for efficacy and efficiency and that is what is driving the emergence of simplified beauty. But a simple, paredback approach to skincare doesn’t mean sacrificin­g results. “Not wanting to forgo the personalis­ed result-driven focus of their skincare, customers are beginning to demand a simple yet bespoke skincare routine that delivers results,” Caci explains. “This demand will push beauty brands to focus on personalis­ed, efficaciou­s skincare without unnecessar­y steps and ingredient­s.”

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