SCENIC ECLIPSE
It’s expedition cruising, but not as we know it, with helicopters, a submarine for six and one of the best chef’s tables around. Amanda Woods makes the most of the private yacht experience offered onboard the new Scenic Eclipse.
It’s expedition cruising but not as we know it, with helicopters, a submarine for six and luxury laid-on.
As my dining companions share a microphone singing ‘Summer Loving’, I’m slightly bewildered but mostly delighted by the twist our evening has taken. It started in the most civilised of manner, with drinks and canapés in a rose quartz crystalbacked champagne bar before a seven-course dinner in the French fine dining restaurant, Lumière. After a long, leisurely meal we’d moseyed to the Scenic Lounge where more than 100 whiskies are backlit with a golden glow for a nightcap. And then we hear it. The unmistakable sound of ‘YMCA’ being happily mangled on a karaoke night, and we’re irresistibly drawn into the neighbouring theatre.
When I flew to Halifax, Nova Scotia to be among the first to sail on Scenic Eclipse, I couldn’t wait to taste the mega-yacht lifestyle, and when I find the sleek, stylish and serene vessel has her silly moments, too, it feels all the more like I’ve somehow joined a billionaire’s private party. Scenic founder and chairman Glen Moroney’s first flash of inspiration for Scenic
CRUISE SPECIAL 2020
Eclipse came when he looked out his window at a mega yacht on Sydney Harbour in 2012. As the idea of giving guests the billionaire yacht experience complete with helicopters and a submarine took hold, he decided to add ocean cruising to his river and land tours on a new kind of ship.
Scenic Eclipse is described as the world’s first discovery yacht, but at more than 17,000 tonnes, I wonder just how big a yacht can be. Thanks to her open bridge policy it’s easy to ask the right person, Captain James Griffiths.
“We call her a yacht because she looks far more like a super yacht than a cruise ship, and it sums up the experience that we’re offering. No ship comes close to us for the amount of space that we offer per guest, and the crew is very accessible, so essentially it’s a private yacht experience.”
That luxury of space is just one of the finer things we enjoy thanks to Scenic Eclipse only carrying up to 228 guests at a time, or 200 in Antarctica and the Arctic. Every one of the 114 suites has its own private verandah and terrace, starting at the 32m² Verandah Suites and going up to the two 195m² Owner’s Penthouses. If that’s not enough, each Owner’s Penthouse can be combined with a Spa Suite for two bedrooms and 247m² of indulgence.
The suites all have a huge mirror that turns into a television, Bose speakers, hypoallergenic air purification systems, adjustable beds, and showers by Gessi that are so good I take a photo for my dream home.
A yoga and Pilates studio on the port side provides the yin to the gym’s yang on the starboard, while the 550m² Senses Spa is a soothing space that is open to all guests to use freely.
As I explore the spa I find an infrared sauna that uses electromagnetic radiation to warm your body alongside a more traditional steam room, and across the hall I am fascinated by a Gessi chromotherapy shower. The large rainfall shower changes colours, bathing guests and their chakras in different coloured light, and is accompanied by a pretty plunge pool for extra cleansing dips.
LUXURY LAID-ON
Treatments with products by ESPA, Susanne Kaufmann and John Masters Organics come at an additional cost and signature massages include yogic stretches and Tibetan cymbals. I eventually settle on a 90-minute ESPA Mindful Massage and drift away as rose quartz crystals are used to massage my scalp.
The unusual elements and attention to detail throughout the ship can be credited to Karen Moroney and her team of designers. As I admire a stunning sculpture at the entrance to Lumière I’m told that at the start of her maiden voyage the space had remained empty because Karen hadn’t found exactly the right piece. Then she had dinner in a restaurant in Quebec and saw it – a beautiful cocktail dress made from more than 4000 spoons. ‘Tea Time’ by Francois Bertrand took more than 2,500 hours to complete and when Scenic Eclipse set sail again it was in its new pride of place.
Some other works were born on the ship, with British graffiti artist Carl Hush invited onto Scenic Eclipse when she was in port in Rotterdam to create three custom installations. His geisha-inspired pieces combine collage, graffiti, stencil, painting and drawing. Get close enough and you can see the different layers Hush applied. And Australia’s heritage is felt through a series of artworks by Byron Bay artist Mitch Gobel, with original resin works in the public areas and penthouses as well as prints in each of the suites.
It doesn’t take long to realise Scenic Eclipse’s chefs are also artists in their own right. Executive Chef Tom Goetter says he was lured onto the ship when Scenic promised he could be as creative as he wants and have any equipment that he wants. Thanks to his toys in the kitchen Tom and his team can dehydrate their own dry foods, make their own garam masala and other spice mixes, and will be able to grow fresh herbs in Antarctica.
There are 10 dining experiences on board, including Asian fusion and private dining with an open Teppanyaki grill at Koko’s and a poolside grill at the Yacht Club. A lunchtime Bento Box at Koko’s is so delicious I return for more the next day, only to find the Bento box themes change so people can try different things. As much as I may have craved another Jidori chicken and leek yakitori, the creamy butter chicken in their Curry Selection Bento is superb.
When you feel like snuggling in for the night, the 24-hour room service menu includes Angus steak, Australian lamb chops, and an Aussie burger complete with bacon, fried egg and red beets. And if you’re lucky enough to receive an envelope inviting you to the Chef’s Table, cancel all other plans.
This 11-course degustation for 10 takes so long to prepare it is only available every second night. In a room tucked between the kitchen and Elements restaurant we’re greeted with a black box with an eggtimer, atomiser, tongs, pestle and a pastry brush, and as he talks us through each of the courses Tom invites us to be part of the fun as we dip into our culinary toolbox. Every dish is playful and delicious.
Cigar-shaped burritos arrive in a humidor before being placed in a glass ashtray with dehydrated vegetable ash, while dessert is dramatically smashed on the table to break the toffee, chocolate, and marshmallow creation into bite-sized pieces.
The chef’s table is by invitation only with Penthouse and other premium guests receiving the first of the golden tickets. Understandably they also have first choice of shore excursions including the two toys we most want to play with – the submarine and helicopters.
The U-Boat Worx Cruise Submarine 7 known as Scenic Neptune can reach depths of 300m, and carries up to six guests at a time on padded leather seats that can swivel to see the best view. Unfortunately foreignregistered subs are not allowed to go down in US waters so when we leave Canada to sail for New York she has to stay high and dry.
We may miss out on the chance to try the submarine but we do get to feel like rock stars as we are led out to the helipad and step into a sexy black helicopter.
As we fly over Martha’s Vineyard, pilot Bradley Brummett explains the two Airbus H130 helicopters have automatic vibration dampening systems, which are a bit like tuning forks under the floor that help cancel the vibrations out.
Not only does it make for a smoother ride it also means they’re some of the quietest helicopters in the skies, which is not only good news for those onboard but also for any wildlife.
Scenic Eclipse’s commitment to the environment also includes a GPS dynamic positioning system that removes the need to drop anchor and helps protects sensitive sea beds, advanced wastewater treatment systems and an Azipod propulsion system for the lowest noise and vibration levels for minimal disturbance to marine life.
All too soon it’s time to say goodbye. As I lay the black luggage mat down on my bed I look at the words “I would gladly live out of a suitcase if it meant I could see the world”. I would gladly swap my suitcase to live out of a discovery yacht.
“THE SHOWERS BY GESSI ARE SO GOOD THAT I TAKE A PHOTO FOR MY DREAM HOME.”