TWELVE BEST WINES
MiNDFOOD’s Master Sommelier selects 12 of the finest current and future drops from New Zealand’s fertile Gimblett Gravels region.
Cameron Douglas choses a dozen top drops from the fertile Gimblett Gravels.
Expressing a single and important wine-growing site – its soil, other physical characteristics and climate – through a platform of different varieties and winemaking is uncommon. Clos Vougeot from Côte de Nuits and Les Clos from Chablis, both in Burgundy, France, are examples of the practice.
In New Zealand, only a few sites exist. The Gimblett Gravels in Hawke’s Bay is the largest and most significant. Covering just 800 hectares, gravelly soils were first laid down by the course of the old Ngaruroro River, and became exposed after a significant flood in the 1860s – creating what is now known as Gimblett Gravels.
In 2001, the winegrowers and producers working this piece of land banded together to protect the integrity of this special site and the Gimblett Gravels Winegrowers Association was formed. As the brand grew in strength and quality, the association decided to create a collection of 12 wines representing the best of each vintage, and put them under the noses and on the palates of wine writers and experts in New Zealand and overseas.
This year marks the 10th release of these, showcasing the 2017 vintage across six syrah and six red blends. Each subsequent release is designed to chart the evolution and progression of the wines from this unique site. If you’re a fan of the cabernet, merlot or syrah families, then I recommend you consider adding the following fine New Zealand wines to your cellar.
01 VIDAL SOLER SYRAH 2017
Garrigue and peppery sweet meat aromas are layered between raspberry and blackcurrant, violets and wood smoke. Very expressive on the palate with chalk and stone textured tannins and a backbone of acidity. A beautifully weighted wine with a core of fruit, wood spice and baking spices, dried meats and wood smoke. Excellent drinking now and through 2025. Recommend decanting. RRP$34.99.
02 SQUAWKING MAGPIE SYRAH 2017
Blackcurrant, plum and old raspberry aromas lead to scents of toasty wood and baking spices, peppercorn and crushed rock. Very tense with lots of nervous energy helped along with bold tannins and a backbone of acidity. Second and third sips reveal flavours of raspberry, tart plum and cherry. A wine for the cellar with best drinking 2022 through 2030. RRP$33.95.
03 SMITH & SHETH CRU HERETAUNGA SYRAH 2017
There’s no mistaking the seam of pepper, a steely mineral line of stones, then old roses and violets. Delicious on the palate with great texture, grip and drive. Dry, toasty, fruity and spicy with fine to chalky wood tannins and an equal measure of acidity frame the fruit and spice flavours. Developing nicely and will continue to do so over the coming 1–3 years. Great drinking through 2026. RRP$40.
04 ELEPHANT HILL STONE SYRAH 2017
Seductive and complex with a core of fruit and spice, warm and fuller-bodied appeal. Numerous flavours from dark raspberry, ripe blackcurrant, plum, liquorice root, violets and iron. Sophisticated tannins and bold acid line add a fine texture and a fleshy fruit layer meld them together. Delicious now, but will benefit from some cellar time. Best drinking from late 2020 to 2025. RRP$75.
“THIS SELECTION SHOWCASES THE 2017 VINTAGE ACROSS SYRAH AND RED BLENDS.” CAMERON DOUGLAS
05 ELEPHANT HILL AIRAVATA SYRAH 2017
Complex and detailed bouquet with the allure of new French oak, ripe red berries, dark plums, spices and pepper. Weighty, fruity and complex with an abundance of fine fruit tannins and toasty oak tannins. A delicious yet youthful wine. Decanting is a must for service between now and its ideal drinking window 2021 through 2029. RRP$120.
06 TRINITY HILL HOMAGE SYRAH 2017
Intense, perfumed and complex. From violets and dark berries to sweet vanilla oak to stony soil fragrances – there’s a lot to take in on first taste. Dark berry and black cherry to dark raspberry, black pepper and liquorice. This is an amazing wine and I could drink a couple of glasses right now, but is best left until 2021 then enjoy through 2028. RRP$145.
07 SMITH & SHETH CRU CANTERA OMAHU CABERNETS SAUVIGNON & FRANC WITH TEMPRANILLO 2017
Baking spices and sweet meats, fresh raspberries, dark plums and cinnamon sticks. Olive and baked bell pepper, toasty wood and sweet earth. Generous, almost sweet-tasting on the palate. Totally drinkable today and through 2025. RRP$60.
08 SACRED HILL HELMSMAN CABERNET SAUVIGNON, MERLOT & CABERNET FRANC 2017
Smoke and dark berries, tobacco and dark plums, olive, hay, violets and vanilla. Bold and full-bodied with flavours of sweet oak, an abundance of tannins to match and contrast a core of fruit, baked goods and cigar box impressions. Best drinking from 2022 through 2030. $84.99.
09 CRAGGY RANGE SINGLE VINEYARD TE KAHU MERLOT CABERNETS FRANC & SAUVIGNON 2017
Aromas of wood spice and toasty French oak give way to scents of dark plums, blackberry and olive. Fruity, fleshy, dry and tense all at the same time. A lovely wine with pleasure from all corners of the palate. Drinkable today and through 2025. Decant for service. RRP$29.95.
10 MISSION ESTATE WINERY BARRIQUE RESERVE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2017
A pure cabernet bouquet with aromas of sweet violets, blackberry and whispers of plum, iron, stones and oak. Everything plays out on the palate with flavours of toasty wood and vanilla, dark berries and more. Best in cellar until late 2021 then drink through to 2029. RRP$30.
11 TRINITY HILL THE GIMBLETT CABERNET SAUVIGNON, MERLOT & CABERNET FRANC 2017
Fabulous bouquet of dark berries and crushed rocks, sweet cigar tobacco, plums, purple flowers and vanilla. On the palate: fruity, tannic, spicy and dry. The fruits and textures are still speed dating, so decant and serve or wait. Best drinking 2021 through 2028. RRP$40.
12 SQUAWKING MAGPIE SQM CABERNET SAUVIGNON, MERLOT & CABERNET FRANC 2017
Blackberries and Doris plums, cloves and baked bell pepper, hay, cocoa and violets. Full-bodied with classic Bordeaux-esque flavours. I’m looking forward to seeing this wine develop over the next 2-3 years then age gracefully through to 2030+. RRP$79.