MiNDFOOD (New Zealand)

RESTAURANT REVIEW

This restaurant in the heart of Silicon Valley has mastered the art of high-end eating with superlativ­e offerings and impeccable taste.

- WORDS BY CAMERON DOUGLAS LOCATION: 250 CALIFORNIA AVENUE, PALO ALTO

Cameron Douglas dines at the hip California­n eaterie Protégé.

Palo Alto is the beating heart of Silicon Valley – Google, Facebook and Apple are close by, and if you want to drive the latest Tesla, they’re around the corner. For tourists who venture into the San Francisco Bay area and want somewhere exceptiona­l to dine, put Protégé on the list.

I first met Dennis Kelly (one of the owners) many years ago when we were both on the Master Sommelier journey – I was one of his mentors while he was part of The French Laundry team, and we became firm friends. I was excited when he decided to embark on his personal restaurant adventure, with chef Anthony Secviar (ex-French Laundry and El Bulli).

The plan was to create a high-end eatery with a warm and inviting environmen­t that would fill a niche in a community hub. Secviar’s exceptiona­l attention to detail carries through to Kelly’s dining areas and wine and beverage programme – everything is exactly as it should be. The décor is modern, spacious, well-lit with a mix of contempora­ry art and a

Michelin Star placard (earned in the first year of operation). There are three separate dining spaces, including a private dining room with a window into the well-formed wine cellar, a dining room/lounge serving a five-course prix fixe menu, and a comfortabl­e bar/dining area.

The cocktails and bar service are exemplary, and you are welcome to order from the à la carte menu. The rest of the dining requires a reservatio­n – and you’ll need one.

Protégé is a dual concept of bar with casual dining and the lounge with a more ‘serious’ dining experience. The service is profession­al and friendly and all staff are well-versed in the food and beverage options – part of the ‘Protégé’ concept is training future industry stars. Kelly works the floor most services as host and sommelier, developing and managing all aspects of the wine and beverage programme.

The diverse wine list has over 300 wines featuring French, German, Italian and US options with some

Spanish, Argentinia­n and Greek as well. The list complement­s the dining experience and caters for a range of budgets. There are two food menus to choose from – more formally a tasting menu with five courses and options within. From this menu the bluefin tuna with avocado, cucumber, black sesame and finger lime is a standout for me. The cooled hen egg with porcini marmalade, parmesan fondue and black truffle is equally sensationa­l.

Having dined at Protégé a number of times and in all three areas (love sitting at the bar), I have to say that if you find yourself in the Palo Alto area, and want to eat well and imbibe some excellent beverages while being made to feel at home with caring service, this is an excellent choice.

“IF YOU’RE IN THE BAY AREA AND WANT A GREAT PLACE TO DINE, PUT THIS ON YOUR LIST.”

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