SERVE AND PROTECT
Dr Nadine Pernodet, vice president of skin biology and bioactives global research and development at The Estée Lauder Companies, talks us through the exciting reinvention that beauty icon Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair has undergone.
The process of keeping skin strong, healthy, resilient and youthful looking has come on in leaps and bounds.
It’s fair to say that we know a whole lot more about keeping skin strong, healthy, resilient and youthfullooking than we did two decades ago. As far as identifying a turning point, Dr Nadine Pernodet, one of the minds behind Estée Lauder’s new Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Multi-Recovery Complex, points to the Human Genome Project – an early 2000s study that changed the way scientists around the globe think about ageing. On top of addressing many previously unanswered questions, Pernodet explains that this study and the resultant shift in thinking – namely that our destiny is not wholly determined by our DNA – had far-reaching implications for the beauty world. “The science of epigenetics has gone on to show that factors such as environment and lifestyle can change your gene expression,” she explains. “For example, our skin is in direct contact with and exposed to many environmental variables – UV and blue light, pollution and ozone levels, travel, and varied climates – all of which can influence skin behaviour and appearance.
“At Estée Lauder Research and Development, our epigenetics research has been inspired by the scientific understanding that only about 25 per cent of the ageing process is genetic,” Pernodet continues. She adds that extrinsic factors, on the other hand, account for much more than was previously thought. “Nearly 75 per cent [of the ageing process] is influenced by the environment, including those factors such as UV exposure and pollution, but also our lifestyle choices, including diet and sleep patterns.” While this figure might seem scary, Pernodet points out that it’s good news for those hoping to keep their complexions youthful-looking for longer. “It means that how our skin looks now, and visibly ages in the future, is largely within our control.”
A NEW WAY OF THINKING
At the heart of Estée Lauder’s research into skin epigenetics, are the microsignalling molecules which exist in our skin. As Pernodet explains, these micro-signalling molecules are able to rapidly sense and respond to their environment. “While different types of micro-signalling molecules are present all throughout the body, our research has focused on how they behave in relation to skin cells, and better understanding how they quickly communicate the skin’s response to external changes.”
While Pernodet’s team, working in Estée Lauder’s R&D laboratories, has identified and investigated nearly 80 different micro-signalling molecules in skin cells, there’s one specific molecule that they’ve honed in on. “Through seven years of research, Estée Lauder has proved for the first time that this specific micro-signalling molecule is essential to our skin’s natural repair mechanisms, and promotes multiple, vital anti-ageing pathways,” she explains. “Significantly, this molecule helps skin increase its natural renewal of fresh, new cells and boosts its natural collagen production. Here in the R&D laboratories, we consider it a guardian of skin youthfulness!”
As for why this discovery is significant, Pernodet says it doesn’t matter whether you’re 20 or 65 – this particular micro-signalling molecule is crucial for younger-looking skin. “During our research we discovered that the level of this molecule is naturally high in young cells, but it declines as skin ages. Other research shows that its level can be affected by environmental aggressors, impacting the skin’s natural ability to counter the skin cell damage that causes premature signs of ageing.”
A FUTURISTIC FORMULA
A product of Estée Lauder’s extensive research into skin ageing, the reformulated Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Multi-Recovery Complex harnesses an innovative new technology called Chronolux Power Signal Technology, which is able to talk directly to that crucial micro-signalling molecule. “The revamped formula also contains a new, signal ingredient, adansonia digitata seed extract, to boost the level of this molecule that we identified as critical to supporting skin’s natural repair,” explains Pernodet. The resulting formulation gives skin the ability to support critical anti-ageing pathways and rapidly respond to its environment. “And for the first time, it provides youthgenerating power, supporting the creation of fresh, new skin cells and the production of collagen,” says Pernodet.
While Advanced Night Repair previously activated skin pathways that were responsible for synching the skin’s circadian rhythm, another benefit of the new formulation is that it activates a host of additional pathways that work to boost collagen production and cell renewal. “Both of which are critical for plump, firmer, youthful-looking skin,” says Pernodet.
And as well as enhancing the skin’s overall health through collagen production, the game-changing formula helps to defend against the extrinsic factors that could be responsible for up to 75 per cent of skin ageing. “No matter your age, every day, skin is assaulted by environmental aggressors,” says Pernodet. “New Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Multi-Recovery Complex works in multiple ways to help promote skin’s natural youthfulness, by helping skin protect itself against the environment.” On top of strengthening the skin’s barrier, the new ANR is able to fend off pollutants including blue light, UV rays and microdust. “The updated formula helps to kickstart the skin’s natural repair and renewal mechanisms more efficiently than ever, going even further than ever to provide youthgenerating power, support the creation and renewal of fresh new skin cells, and encourage collagen production,” says Pernodet. We think that sounds skin-sational.
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“ONLY ABOUT 25 PER CENT OF THE AGEING PROCESS IS GENETIC.” DR NADINE PERNODET