NATURAL ALTERNATIVE

Derived from vitamin A, retinol is well-known as one of those ‘no pain, no gain’ ingredients, its transformational anti-ageing capabilities outweighing the sometimes unpleasant side-effects. But could a gentle, plant-based alternative achieving near-ident

Gentle, plant-based bakuchiol has been touted as the ultimate retinol alternative.

Staring aimlessly at the ingredient listings on the backs of serums, lotions and potions trying to decipher what will change your skin and what won’t can sometimes feel like a fool’s errand. However, despite all the beauty guff and jargon that’s out there, there are, of course, a handful of tried-and-tested ingredients that live up to the hype. As far as turning back the clock on our complexion, retinoids – the family of vitamin A derivatives – have long reigned supreme. But anyone who has gone too hard and too fast with a new retinol product will know that it’s often a tricky ingredient to work into your routine. Even though the reputation of vitamin A as a skincare hero is undoubtedly well earned – it smooths skin, enhances collagen production and regenerates youthfulness – the miraculous, youth-restoring ingredient family is not without its downsides.

When introducing retinol into a skincare regimen, easy does it, with experts recommending a less-is-more approach. Apply too much too soon, or start out with a high-strength formula your skin is not ready for, and you run the risk of impairing the barrier function of your skin. Irritated skin – redness, peeling and increased photosensitivity – can ensue even if you take a considered approach to retinol, particularly if you’re susceptible to skin sensitivities.

THE NEWCOMER

Despite a plethora of new anti-ageing ingredients making an appearance in our skincare routines each year, retinoids have managed to retain their place in the skincare spotlight relatively unchallenged. Yet with beauty houses constantly innovating and more consumers looking for natural-based products that align with their lifestyles, a new generation of game-changing ingredients are making their presence known.

Enter, a new plant-based ingredient, bakuchiol – pronounced ‘buh-koo-chee-all’ – which is set to revolutionise our skincare routines. Touted as the ultimate retinol alternative, bakuchiol – often known by its trade name Sytenol – is music to the ears of those looking for natural, high-performance skincare and who suffer from sensitive skin. While bakuchiol, which is extracted from the leaves of the babchi plant, has been around for a number of years now, it’s only recently that it has become more commonplace in the beauty world. “Taken from nature, this plant plays an important role in ayurvedic and Chinese medicine and is known for its antibacterial, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties,” says Janis McNicholas, training manager for Avène Australia and New Zealand.

Although the ingredient is chemically unrelated to the retinoid family and bears no structural resemblance to retinoids, the youth-restoring properties of bakuchiol are promising, McNicholas explains. Various studies have shown that bakuchiol has similar skin-health benefits to retinoids without the unpleasant side effects that can come hand-in-hand with using vitamin A. In an independent randomised, double-blind 2019 study published by the British Journal of Dermatology, patients were given either a daily 0.5 percent retinol cream or a 0.5 per cent twice-daily bakuchiol cream. Over the course of the 12-week study, photographs were taken at weeks zero, four, eight and 12, and patients were asked to record any side effects that they experienced over the trial period. Dermatologists also assessed each participant’s skin for irritation.

After the 12-week trial, both bakuchiol and retinol were found to significantly decrease wrinkle surface area and hyperpigmentation. The key difference that the dermatologists found was that the retinol users reported more skin irritation – particularly scaling and stinging. The study concluded that bakuchiol is comparable to retinol in its ability to improve photoageing, while being better tolerated than retinol. It does have to be noted that bakuchiol had to be used twice-daily to get results comparable to the retinol-based formula. However, in vitro studies have shown promising results, too. A paper published in 2014 found that bakuchiol stimulated collagen production, while a second study found that bakuchiol was better than retinol at slowing down two enzymes that break down collagen and elastin.

As to whether it’s time to switch out your go-to retinol-based products and replace them with bakuchiol, the jury is still out. As promising as bakuchiol is, it’s important to remember that retinoids have decades of research and clinical trials behind

“A NATURAL ALTERNATIVE TO RETINOL, BAKUCHIOL HAS SIMILAR EFFICACY.” JANIS McNICHOLAS

them. Plus, the methods in which retinol is delivered to skin are constantly being revamped and improved in order to help skin better tolerate the ingredient. Only recently, Murad launched its new retinol products that, as Katy Bacon, education director for Australasia Pacific explains, deliver all the benefits of retinol with minimal side effects. “We wanted to develop a product that said ‘No’ to irritation and dryness, and ‘Yes’ to skin health and youthfulness for everyone,” Bacon says. The formulas harness a retinolbased trio – fast-acting retinoid, microencapsulated retinol and retinol booster – to boost skin firmness and radiance without the irritation.

But these advances in skincare tech, ingredients and delivery systems aside, retinoids still won’t agree with all skin types. As such, a growing number of beauty consumers are looking for plant-based beauty alternatives. Historically, greener ingredients and a less environmentally impactful product has meant sacrificing results. But thanks to the emergence of bakuchiol, it would appear that this is no longer a trade-off consumers have to make.

“A natural alternative to retinol, without the sensitivity issues, bakuchiol has similar efficacy,” says McNicholas. There’s more good news. Because retinoids can increase our skin’s photosensitivity, skincare experts have always advised that we apply them in the evening only, to avoid unwanted sun damage to skin. This is certainly not to say that sunscreen need no longer be an essential step in a thorough skin routine, but it’s good to know that bakuchiol can be used in both the AM and PM, without worrying about sun-sensitivity. “Bakuchiol is photostable, and is well-tolerated on sensitive skin,” confirms McNicholas.

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Another beauty buzzword you’ve likely seen on the back of a bottle recently, squalane mimics the moisturising properties of squalene, an oil naturally produced by our skin.