SECRETS OF THE STEAKHOUSE
Ahead of the opening of New York-style steakhouse, Saxon + Parole in Auckland, MiNDFOOD sat down with acclaimed New York-based Michelin-starred executive chef Brad Farmerie and Kiwi chef de cuisine Logan Coath to talk about what goes into producing world-class steaks. How did you find your steak suppliers?
Brad Farmerie: Our chef de cuisine, Logan Coath, has great first-hand knowledge of the farms and purveyors in New Zealand so I relied heavily on his expertise. He shares the philosophy that I have always had in New York – get to know the people and the places where your food comes from. This allows the producers to take pride in the end result of their hard work and lets our guests appreciate the people who help put food on their plate.
Logan Coath: It is very important to me that I know where my food comes from and that the animals are treated well. Getting to know the people behind the brands – in the case of our steak, Black Origin, Lansdowne Farm and Silver Fern Farms – and what is important to them helps us to align with like-minded people.
What does ageing and hanging add to a steak?
BF: Dry ageing renders a steak more tender and more flavourful than it would be if it weren’t dry aged. As the beef ages, there is moisture loss that concentrates its flavour along with the natural breakdown of protein and fat, giving it a nuttiness in the smell and flavour. During the ageing process, enzymes that occur naturally within the beef break down chewy, connective tissue resulting in a tender steak.
LC: Ageing adds complexity and tenderness to a steak. We feature both wet and dry-aged products and source our meats from amazing suppliers who take care at each step of the process from farming right through to ageing.
How long is optimum to age a steak? Does it vary for different cuts?
BF: This is a matter of opinion and is very dependent on the cut of beef, fat content and feed. I have seen the best results in grain-fed beef left in a large muscle group, which still has a layer of fat and/or bone protecting the exterior, such as a whole New York strip/porterhouse or a ribeye. I have seen varying degrees of success in other feeds and cuts, but these get the greatest improvement. I also believe that 21–28 days results in a nice balance of flavour, texture and juiciness, although there is a huge varying opinion in ideal length, and the conditions in which a meat is dry aged will have an effect on the results. When I cook on the West Coast of the US, the guests seem to prefer 14-21 day steaks but in New York City, many guests are looking for 28-40 days of age.
LC: It varies between the different cuts. Depending on the steak, as a basic rule I would say meat on the bone can age longer than off the bone and obviously the larger the cut, the more likely it is to benefit from ageing.
Are bone-in steaks better in your opinion?
BF: I like offering bone-in steaks. There is the general thought that they are more flavorful (which I think might be debatable), but the reason I like them is that the bone insulates and protects the meat, giving a nice contrast to the char on the outside of the steak. One instance where I have found bone-in steaks to be much more flavourful is with dry-aged beef, as the bones are exposed during the dry-aged process so it builds flavour faster than the meat itself.
LC: Yes, who doesn’t love a bone to gnaw on? I don’t think they are harder to cook, I think it just takes a little patience, technique and experience.
What is the optimum thickness for a steak? Is there a good rule of thumb?
BF: I don’t think there is a general thickness that is best for all steaks, although anything thinner than 2.5cm makes it hard to get a good char on the surface without overcooking it. Thicker steaks lead to a greater contrast in flavour and texture within the steak, so that is why I would always prefer thicker steaks. Also, for home cooks, it gives a bigger window of opportunity to get the right doneness as it will stay in the range longer and allow a meat thermometer to give an accurate reading.
LC: Again, it depends on the cut of meat. As a general rule, I would say over 3cm. It gives you the opportunity to get a nice amount of caramelisation on the meat without overcooking it.
When it comes to seasoning steak, is it better to salt and rest the meat for up to a few days in advance, or just season before cooking?
BF: I think there is an argument for both of these techniques, although at the restaurant we generally dry the exterior of the steak, season with kosher salt and fresh cracked pepper and then cook it, rest it, slice it and season the sliced meat with a crystalline salt like Maldon salt.
LC: Always, always, always bring your meat up to room temperature before cooking it, and oil the steak not the pan or grill! I will generally rub the meat with a neutral flavoured oil then season heavily with salt.
What are you expecting to be the most popular steak at Saxon + Parole?
BF: I think the 21-day dry-aged, grass-fed sirloin is going to be the most popular. It offers so much for the price – a naturally rich cut of meat with dry age to build flavour, and the bone to insulate and keep it juicy.
LC: I believe it won’t be just one cut. ‘Holy Cow!’ will give people a fun opportunity to try several different cuts of meat side by side and really appreciate the different flavours and textures. saxonandparole.nz