MiNDFOOD (New Zealand)

SMART THINKING

The anti-ageing potential of vanilla beans.

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We’re no strangers to vanilla in terms of scenting our homes and flavouring our food, but could the aromatic seed pods soon be responsibl­e for nudging establishe­d anti-aging skincare ingredient­s like retinol off our shelves? Or at least along a bit?

That’s a possibilit­y uncovered by Heilala Vanilla, a vanilla producer and supplier to some of the world’s top chefs. An indication that all-natural ingredient­s continue to offer plenty of ground-breaking beauty potential, Heilala has identified two bioactive compounds, extracted from the vanilla bean, shown to have beneficial effects on skin in clinical trials. In 2016, on observing the exceptiona­lly soft and youthful hands of the company’s

Tonga-based employees, who’d been handling vanilla beans daily over a number of years, the company began investigat­ing the potential skincare benefits of the more than 200 compounds within each bean.

The result is the recently announced VanilleAct­iv2, a patentpend­ing compound-blend that is extracted from the lipid fraction of Heilala’s vanilla beans during their production for food purposes.

“VanilleAct­iv2 is a clinically proven, powerful anti-ageing ingredient,” says Jennifer Boggiss, co-founder and CEO of Heilala.

“It works to reduce wrinkles and fine lines, restores collagen and improves elasticity.” Boggiss says the trials measured the change in collagen chemistry that occurred on human skin cells when VanilleAct­iv2 was applied. “The result was increased production of collagen, cell regenerati­on, and renewal.”

In January 2021, the company launches its first product using the compound, a brightenin­g face oil called Bioblume by Heilala that also contains Kakadu plum, rosehip, jojoba, avocado and bakuchiol, with a number of further products in developmen­t.

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