DESTINATION WAIRARAPA
Meaning ‘glistening waters’ in te reo, Wairarapa is a compact, diverse wine region with producers offering a range of varieties. There are also plenty of eateries to enjoy on your tasting tour.
Boutique, charming, welcoming and full of character aptly describes the Wairarapa region of Aotearoa. The best way to get there is by car over the Remutaka Hills from Wellington or maybe fly into Palmerston North and drive down. There’s a train from Wellington to Featherston, Masterton and Gladstone, too. Once you are there it’s easy to ditch the car (or van) in favour of an electric bicycle to slow things down and explore.
The three wine sub-regions to visit from north to south are Masterton, Gladstone and Martinborough. Every producer in each sub seems to have a fascinating story underpinning their journey to becoming farmers and wine makers along with some marvellous examples to try. There is often a small, customary tasting fee, which is refunded when a bottle is purchased. Very fine chardonnay, riesling, pinot noir, red blends and syrah can be discovered along with rosé, sparkling wine, aromatics and experimental varieties and styles.
With about 26 cellar doors to visit, many with excellent dining options, there is plenty to taste and eat along the way. Be sure to check if an appointment is necessary first as some of the venues really are
boutique and need to know you’re heading their way. I have enjoyed excellent food at Poppies, Luna Estate, Coney Wines, Escarpment and Margrain. I have also had a fantastic lunch with a great range of wines by the glass at the Union Square Bistro located inside the Martinborough Hotel. There are some decent cafés around, too, with Medici and the Village Café rather good, but my favourite is the Neighbourhood Coffee House.
No wine story of the region is complete without mentioning Ata Rangi, Palliser Estate, Dry River,
Escarpment, Martinborough Vineyard, Schubert, Gladstone, Luna Estate, Big Sky, The Elder, Colombo (they make a fine pizza, too!), Butterworth and Te Kairanga.
Be sure to make time to stop by Cambridge Road vineyard and tasting room, too – the wines are complex and interesting, using small-batch production and each with a lesson in natural wine and natural wine farming.
With labels such as ‘Down the Rabbit Hole’, ‘Cloud Walker’ and ‘Tiger’, the wines will open your eyes and palate to flavours and textures that may just take you on a wine journey down the road less travelled.
I recommend two or three full days to really explore the region properly. With fine wine alongside excellent dining options, a trip to the Wairarapa should be a destination goal for 2021.