Lemon & Garlic Cockles with Creamy Semolina

Serves 4

50g butter, chopped

2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil 4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced 150g flat pancetta, rind

removed and thinly sliced 1 tsp finely grated lemon rind 1 cup (250ml) dry white wine 1 kilo cockles, scrubbed ½ cup (125g) mascarpone 2 tbsp chopped parsley

SEMOLINA

1 litre vegetable stock 2 bay leaves

1 cup (170g) semolina 40g unsalted butter,

chopped

1 cup (250g) mascarpone 1 cup (250ml) milk, extra

To make the semolina (also known as polenta), place the stock and bay leaves in a large saucepan over medium heat and bring to a simmer. Remove the bay leaves and reduce heat to low. Gradually add the semolina and cook, whisking continuously, for 2–3 minutes or until thickened. Add remaining ingredients and stir to combine. Take off the heat and keep warm.

Heat butter and oil in a large frying pan over medium heat. Add the garlic and pancetta and cook for 4-6 minutes or until golden. Add lemon rind, wine and bring to a simmer. Add the cockles, cover and cook for 8-10 minutes or until they just open. Add mascarpone and stir to combine. Garnish with parsley and season with pepper. Serve with semolina.

WHERE TO FIND THEM

Cockles are widespread in New Zealand, found in the North and South Islands, Stewart Island and the Chatham Islands. They live in estuaries, mudflats and harbours in varying types of terrain, from soft muddy areas to silty sand. Cockles will dig down into the seabed to form a shallow burrow and are best gathered around low to mid-tide. Some cockles have been found as deep as 20 metres, though normally they tend to be in shallow habitats. Researchers in New Zealand have discovered that cockles tend to prefer places where there is not too much sediment washed down by streams and rivers and where there is lots of phytoplankton for them to eat.

WHAT THEY EAT

Cockles are filter feeders, meaning they eat by filtering particles of food through water. They do this by opening their shells and pumping water across their gills to catch phytoplankton and move it into their mouths.

SEASON AND AVAILABILITY

Cockles are harvested year-round, however, digging for cockles is often seen as a summertime activity in New Zealand. They are often confused with pipis, whose shells are more oval-shaped, and tuatua, which are more irregular in shape. There are three main areas in New Zealand where cockles are harvested commercially. These are Snake Bank in Whangārei Harbour, the Papanui and Waitati Inlets in Otago Peninsula and Pakawau Beach, Ferry Point and Tapu Bay in the Tasman and Golden Bay areas.

SUSTAINABILITY

While the population of New Zealand cockles is typically stable in most areas of the country, in other parts, the numbers of this endemic shellfish have been seen to be declining. This comes down to a number of factors, including overharvesting and impacts on their habitat. To preserve the population of cockles, there is a limit of 50 cockles a day per person in Auckland and the Coromandel, and 150 for the rest of the country.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Like mussels, you can find live cockles at supermarkets, fish shops and markets. The shells should be intact, shiny and brightly coloured. When purchased live, the shells should be closed, or easily close when tapped gently. They should have a fresh, salty, seawater smell. When picking your own cockles, get rid of sand by popping them in a bucket of seawater overnight.

REDUCE WASTE

Cut down waste by cooking cockles soon after buying, or preserving them in brine. The leftover shells can be returned to the sea or crushed up and put into your home compost bin.

STORING THEM

Fresh cockles need to be stored, well-drained, in a container to keep them alive. Avoid plastic containers and instead, keep them in a colander over a dish and cover with a clean, damp tea towel. You can also place ice over the towel, however, be careful not to put ice directly on the shells as their flesh is tender and delicate. Like most seafood, cockles are best eaten fresh, but if you do need to store them, they should be kept in the fridge for no longer than two days.

HOW TO COOK THEM

Because they are mostly eaten with the shells attached, prepare your cockles by scrubbing the shells with a brush under cold running water. This helps remove any sediment and dirt from the surface. Some people do eat cockles raw, but it is recommended to cook them before eating to reduce the risk of food poisoning.

For a simple method of cooking, steam cockles in water until the shells open. This should only take 5-10 minutes, depending on the size and amount of cockles. Be careful not to overcook them to avoid any rubbery texture and make sure to discard any unopened shells.

Cockles go beautifully in fresh pasta dishes, like the popular Italian ‘Spaghetti alle Vongole’, the sweet flavours pairing wonderfully with olive oil, garlic, chilli and fresh herbs. The versatility of this shellfish means it also goes well with creamier dishes, like risotto and seafood chowder. You can also cook cockles in fritters. Simply steam them until open, scoop out the meat and mix into a batter before frying until golden brown.

Of course, wine is a popular accompaniment in cockle dishes, bringing a great balance of acidity and fruity notes to complement the shellfish. Opt for a crisp, dry white wine when cooking with cockles, such as sauvignon blanc or chardonnay. Other flavours that pair well with cockles include butter, mascarpone, bay leaves, thyme, basil, saffron, tomatoes, celery and shallots.