MiNDFOOD (New Zealand)

Featuring delicious meals prepared by talented local chefs, the Sampson Street Long Lunch celebrates 30 years of the Food Of Orange District Week.

- WORDS BY MICHAEL McHUGH

“A strong sense of community runs through Orange.”

MiNDFOOD Editor-in-Chief Michael McHugh celebrates 30 years of F.O.O.D Week in Orange, central-western NSW, with a delightful al fresco lunch under a canopy of plane trees, learning about eco-farming, sampling local produce, touring the sights, making friends with the locals, and enjoying award-winning local eateries and wines.

THE ULTIMATE LUNCH

There is something quite childlike and magical about stomping your way through crispy goldcolour­ed autumn leaves and hearing that crunch underfoot as the leaves fly up around you. At the same time as those golden leaves fall from above, with bright blue skies beyond, there is a slight, fresh ping in the air, that rosy-cheeked feel, that makes you want to walk just that little bit faster.

It could also have something to do with the most glorious long lunch under an avenue of plane trees on Sampson Street, a fine-looking residentia­l street in Orange. With a tummy full of locally sourced produce like foraged mushrooms, figs and chestnuts – all whipped up into delicious dishes from talented local chefs Tony Worland from Tonic in Millthorpe, Simonn Hawke from Lolli Redini, Josie Chapman from The Old Convent Catering, Hall of Famer Michael Manners and Lesley Russell – the Sampson Street Long Lunch celebratin­g 30 years of Food Of Orange District (F.O.O.D) Week meant our break away from the city gets off to a great start. Each course was matched with local wines, which was the perfect introducti­on to cool-climate deliciousn­ess in a bottle.

While at lunch we discovered the most delicious cool-climate local red wine, Swinging Bridge ‘M.A.W.’ Pinot Noir. Locals pointed us to The Lane Cellars to stock up, Shop 26 in the Orange Arcade on Summer Street, where we bought half a dozen for those cold winter nights back home, or that’s what we told ourselves. They didn’t last the month. While there, we also discovered Cured (Shop 27), which specialise­s in handcrafte­d artisan meats, perfect for that planned autumnal picnic on the drive home as we left with a basket full of charcuteri­e.

Another local recommenda­tion was Racine Bakery, further along Summer Street, which specialise­s in organic bread and patisserie­s. It rounded out our bounty of local deliciousn­ess, as the sausage rolls are well worth breaking any diet for.

Josie Chapman’s dessert at the long lunch of poached red wine pear with Second Mouse Cheese Double Cream Brie and seeded flatbread left us wanting more of that cheese. Not only did we track it down, we discovered you can buy the entire range at the local IGA, which we did. The handmade artisan cheeses use traditiona­l techniques and locally sourced milk and are also suitable for vegetarian­s. The washed rind Frieda, the Swiss-style Henri, halloumi, fetta, camembert and Roobie Blue are all worth sampling.

The beauty of Orange, situated in the Central Tablelands of NSW, is the access, as it is only just over a three-hour drive from Sydney travelling through the Blue Mountains and Bathurst, or of course you can take a quick flight. There is a strong sense of community that runs through the veins of Orange, bonding locals and visitors and cementing its status as one of Australia’s most prominent food and wine destinatio­ns. orange360.com.au

THE FOOD & WINE TOUR

The simple act of standing in Thornbrook Orchard picking an apple from the tree and munching your way through it while walking to the next group of fruit trees and sampling the figs, pears and plums feels good. This connection to Mother Nature is part of the Country Food Trails experience, with born-and-bred Orange local, Nicole Farrell. Farrell’s bespoke tours include a range of local sightseein­g, from heritage food and wine tours to luxury picnics. It was fascinatin­g to learn about wealthy families of the past, the gorgeous heritage properties and local tales woven among the current thinking of today, making these tours a must-do when visiting Orange. At one point we were standing midtown on the grass rooftop of a very modern Informatio­n Building as Farrell pointed out certain buildings, the wide avenues and the in-progress constructi­on of the Orange Regional Gallery extension nearby. A tour within the tour, we visited the Gerald Powers Indigenous Cultural Adventures community garden, where we sampled and learnt about warrigal greens – as well as midyim berries which are high in vitamin C and used in tea, fruit salad or cocktails – and river mint, which has healing properties relieving headaches and acts a natural mosquito repellent. We left with jars of Nana’s homemade Bush Tucka Tomato Relish and Lemon Myrtle Marmalade. Lunch was served as individual platters with local cheeses, cured meats, dips and relish at Dindima Wines Cellar Door, where owner Lee Bell talked us through their latest harvest, which was interestin­g and fun. We took a quick side trip to Cook Park and the Blowes Conservato­ry to see the begonias in full bloom; a real treat of bursting colour of spectacula­r florals. countryfoo­dtrails.com.au

PRODUCERS

Strolling through the Orange Farmers Market is a perfect introducti­on to the vast array on offer from clever local producers. During F.O.O.D Week, local producers held show, tell and taste workshops. Sitting listening to Rodger Shannon from Carbeen Pastured Products talk about holistic regenerati­ve farming creating nutritiona­lly dense and pastured poultry was fascinatin­g. Improving the health of the soil is key to healthy plants and animals by implementi­ng biomimicry of natural systems, which in turn maintains the diverse farm ecosystem. Likewise when listening to Angela Argyle from Argyle Australian Saffron, after throwing in corporate jobs in Sydney, Angela and her husband Brendan have perfected the growing of saffron and drying process – locking in the colour, flavour and aroma. The harvesting process makes me want to find as many locals to go and help during this detailed, specific process. Launching only in 2018 with perfect growing conditions in Orange, with four distinct seasons, this family premium innovative business is one to watch as you can buy direct from paddock to plate. orangefarm­ersmarket.org.au pasturedpr­oduce.com.au argyleaust­raliansaff­ron.com.au

SHOPPING & CAFÉ HOPPING

The Sonic is so cool, people queue to get in. Situated in the city’s old Masonic Lodge, it is a clever mix of fashion, homewares and café. There is much to browse, buy and spend time looking at hipster cookbooks, handmade ceramics and clothes that suit both the mums and daughters clientele. This is the first place on any shoppers must-visit list to Orange: locals tell us it serves the best coffee in town. Along the road, Birdie Noshery has the same owners as Lolli Redini restaurant: it is perfect for breakfast or lunch and turns into a super-cool slick bar at night for that pre- or post-dinner drink. The family connection continues at Hawkes General Store, filled with children’s clothes, gifts and fashion items. The White Place is where you wander from room to room with homewares curated within an inch of their life. And if you want a perfect toastie and good coffee, head to Good Eddy; this couple know what they are doing. The Union Bank has had life bought back into it by head chef Dom Aboud and partner Sarah Crowley with The Schoolhous­e restaurant and The Arthouse Bar. This is a perfect location to sample local ingredient­s from a talented young team of passionate foodies. Other recommenda­tions: Mr Lim if you’re after a fix of Asian food, set in a very decadent decorated space. For a good bacon and egg roll and morning coffee, head to the Mad Hatter behind the Quest Hotel; this foodie place is both surprising and worth the brisk walk. With what feels like a pub on every corner, you should visit The Hotel Canobolas in the middle of town, or the family-friendly Ophir Hotel opposite the Catholic Church. You won’t be disappoint­ed. You’ll find great food and wine at any price point in Orange. The Quest is in the perfect position to discover Orange, where you can ditch the car and walk everywhere. questapart­ments.com.au

MILLTHORPE

Tonic is the must-visit, go-to restaurant in Millthorpe. Sitting proudly on the main corner of this picturesqu­e village, it offers a set five-course meal, all accompanie­d by local wines. The next day we buy wine at Angullong and the Slow Wine Co, having sampled both of them the night before. The Millthorpe Providore has great coffee and a buzzing local vibe as locals and visitors discuss the best plans for the day ahead. Local shop Millthorpe Blue is perfect for that holiday purchase with a curated range of unisex fashion and homeware. There are also accommodat­ion options if you ask owner Mary Dowrick Debere. The newly renovated Commercial Hotel with its snazzy corner bar will have you settled in for the day or night. Don’t miss visiting this pretty village. millthorpe­blue.com.au tonicmillt­horpe.com.au

CARCOAR

The Belubula River runs through this charming town that time forgot, which has been classified by the National Trust because of its large number of preserved 19th-century buildings. A Toy Museum, the century-old Courthouse, and the second-hand store across the white wooden bridge are all worth visiting, as is Tomolly, where you can buy candles, soap and jewellery and where the owner proudly shows customers a feature on her historic home in Country Style magazine. The seasonally set menu at Antica Australis restaurant on Belubula Street is worth sampling and is a nice surprise for all travelling foodies, bringing a little taste of rural Italy to regional Australia. anticacarc­oar.com

VISIT MiNDFOOD.COM

Australia produces top-notch shiraz, including the Philip Shaw 2016 No.89 Shiraz from Orange. Come check it out, along with other excellent picks of this stunning varietal. mindfood.com/top-shiraz

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 ??  ?? Opposite page and above: The Sampson Street Long Lunch features the region’s chefs in the kitchen, local produce on plates and Orange’s vineyards in a glass. This year’s menu included a mushroom minestrone, country terrine with toast and plum relish, and braised lamb with Italian fregola, caponata, olives and artichoke, with salsa verde.
Opposite page and above: The Sampson Street Long Lunch features the region’s chefs in the kitchen, local produce on plates and Orange’s vineyards in a glass. This year’s menu included a mushroom minestrone, country terrine with toast and plum relish, and braised lamb with Italian fregola, caponata, olives and artichoke, with salsa verde.
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 ??  ?? Clockwise from above: Stunning begonias at Blowes Conservato­ry; Michael and Michelle McHugh at Thornbrook Orchard, where the apples are irresistib­le; Brendan and Angela Argyle from Argyle Australian Saffron; Sunday Producer Market and Brunch; Paula Charnock and Paul Eccleston at Thornbrook Orchard; Freshly picked pears.
Clockwise from above: Stunning begonias at Blowes Conservato­ry; Michael and Michelle McHugh at Thornbrook Orchard, where the apples are irresistib­le; Brendan and Angela Argyle from Argyle Australian Saffron; Sunday Producer Market and Brunch; Paula Charnock and Paul Eccleston at Thornbrook Orchard; Freshly picked pears.
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left: The Sonic (also top right); Beautiful light illuminati­ng the leaves at Carcoar; Enjoy a drink or a meal at the Union Bank’s Arthouse Bar (below); The Union Bank head chef, Dom Aboud.
Clockwise from top left: The Sonic (also top right); Beautiful light illuminati­ng the leaves at Carcoar; Enjoy a drink or a meal at the Union Bank’s Arthouse Bar (below); The Union Bank head chef, Dom Aboud.
 ??  ?? Orange’s public parks are particular­ly beautiful in autumn.
Orange’s public parks are particular­ly beautiful in autumn.
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