MiNDFOOD (New Zealand)

It’s time we treated our scalps better.

Experts say that we need to begin thinking about treating our scalps better. The benefits go far beyond ridding pesky flakes of dandruff, and will help build healthy, resilient, luscious locks.

- WORDS BY MEGAN BEDFORD

Given the attention we lavish on our facial skin, it’s somewhat surprising most of us have never really considered that it extends well beyond our hairline.

When it comes to our heads, we’ve always been more concerned with the condition of the hair that sprouts from it, than what lies underneath.

Experts say this is an oversight, because treating our scalp well is exactly what can contribute to healthy, resilient and luscious locks. Better education and increased product options mean the tide is turning as dedicated scalp care becomes a new haircare must-have alongside traditiona­l shampoo, conditione­r and styling products.

“Scalp health is important as it is like a garden that grows beautiful flowers,’’ explains Nigel Russell, trichologi­st and hairdresse­r with more than 30 years of experience.

“If it is either over-hydrated or under-hydrated, the result will not be good. If a scalp gets too much build-up and is not exfoliated properly, then this may create scaling, redness and irritation,” he adds.

Russell says poor scalp health can lead to ongoing issues that become hard to manage and interfere with healthy hair growth, with strands becoming weaker and prone to breakage and increased hair fall. Meanwhile, Stacey August, hairdresse­r and owner of Village Hair agrees, saying scalp dysfunctio­n means you won’t be getting the best from your style.

“You may experience your hair being over-oily, creating flat, dull hair. Or if you have an extremely dry, flaky scalp, your hair may in turn be very dry as there aren’t enough natural oils to nourish it. Another sign is that your hair is starting to thin.”

Typically we just aren’t increasing the cell turnover in the area the way we do when we exfoliate our face – particular­ly following heavy or repetitive use of styling products and dry shampoo that can coat strands and contribute to follicle congestion.

Other factors such as vitamin deficienci­es, health conditions, hormones, medication, high cortisol levels due to stress and even a change in weather have been known to impact the health of the area, which contains myriad blood vessels that transport the all-important nutrients your hair needs for growth, protection, shine and suppleness.

Dandruff can also be caused by a fungus called malassezia, a yeast that thrives on excess scalp oil. Flakes on your collar is also a common first

BEAUTY SCALP CARE

“SCALP HEALTH IS LIKE A GARDEN THAT GROWS BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS.”

indicator something is amiss. Yet even if there are no signs of trouble, treating your scalp well will reap benefits. Washing your hair thoroughly and regularly is key, ensuring shampoo is distribute­d well and massaged into the roots before being rinsed away completely.

Beyond the shower-standard products we’re used to, dedicated, occasional-use items to keep the area in good shape now include scalp scrubs with both gritty particles as well as more gentle AHAs that break down product and sebum build-up and dissolves dead skin cells. Just like a face routine, once cleansing is complete, replenishm­ent is necessary, too. Traditiona­lly this was contribute­d to with conditione­r, but now also includes the option of treatment serums and oils that increase hydration and offer vitamins and nutrition that support hair follicles.

“A good scalp massage will also stimulate blood flow and keep the scalp healthy so it’s producing good healthy hair,’’ says Russell. “It can stop the scalp becoming too tight across the head, which often occurs when we are stressed.”

He agrees scrubs and dedicated massagers can be helpful. “As long as the teeth of the brush are not stiff plastic and it is a gentle action then they are fine, but not on an oily scalp as this would stimulate oil production.”

To prevent too much trial and error and to diagnose any more serious issues, August suggests that a good first step is to consult an expert in the salon. She uses a special Kemøn Trico analysis microscope to get a close-up view of hair and scalp. A connected app then helps diagnose their condition and recommends appropriat­e products.

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