Our Master Sommelier visits some of NZ’s finest vineyard restaurants.
Not only is Aotearoa a land rich in diversity and quality of wine, many of its vineyards boast world-class fine-dining restaurants. MiNDFOOD’s Master Sommelier travels the length and breadth of the country, showcasing some of his favourites ... from Waiheke Island in the north to Central Otago in the south.
There’s a renewed buzz in the e-waves as our friends across the ditch are packing their bags for a vacation in New Zealand. They’re keen to know where they can go for great food and wine experiences, places to visit and new sights to see. Locally, too, the feeling of freedom in NZ is returning, with plans to travel to Australia and the Pacific Islands firmly on the calendar. The truth is we’ve been at the ready for some time and are keen to welcome back friends and family.
One email I received was very specific: it was from a reader who lived in Sydney who was planning a getaway to New Zealand, specifically Otago. They wanted to know where to eat in Otago, Hawke’s Bay, Northland, Canterbury and the Wairarapa, as well with locations close to vineyards and accommodation.
Over the past year or so I’ve stopped by every wine region in Aotearoa, at least once, and discovered many fine places to dine. I’ve detailed some in this issue, with more to come in August. Welcome back!
BLACK ESTATE
North Canterbury
If, on your next adventure around Aotearoa you’re planning a trip to Canterbury, be sure to dine at Black Estate Wine, located in the Waipara Valley. It’s an easy drive from Christchurch or Hanmer Springs. The location, hospitality and dining are all fantastic. It is a popular destination and with limited seating for about 40 indoors and 20 outdoors, it’s best to book ahead. The menu is outstanding with a range of dishes to indulge. I tend to negotiate with my wife over the main course selection so we both get to try our first and second choices. The wild venison, burnt cabbage, onion and citrus dish is highly recommended, as is the salad of beetroot, sunflower butter and buffalo feta cheese. The dining room overlooks one of the vineyards and a wander through the vines is possible; in fact, it is encouraged so you can learn a little about biodynamic and organic farming. “Our biggest focus is that we strive to offer a real farm-to-table experience, so start in the vineyard – come and have a look, meet some of our vineyard team and have a chat,” says proprietor Penelope Naish. blackestate.co.nz
HARVEST
Marlborough
Less than a year ago I discovered Harvest Restaurant in Blenheim. I was captivated by the grand setting of old trees and well-tended gardens and the Marlborough Hotel is very elegant. Harvest offers the best dining experience in Marlborough. Executive chef Toby Stuart sources local produce to craft Michelin-level fare including charcoal-roasted mussels with Thai curry butter, pork rib-eye with romesco sauce and butterfish with couscous, pine nuts, basil and rocket. Fantastic food in a stunning setting. harvestrestaurant.co.nz
GIBBSTON VALLEY
Gibbston
Central Otago draws many to the region for its outstanding wines, luxury lodges, adventure sports and food. It’s an easy 15-minute drive from Queenstown to Gibbston. In addition to a lodge and spa, resort living spaces and retail there is a cheesery and a spacious restaurant to experience. I remember calling by late one afternoon at Gibbston Valley Winery Restaurant in the hope the kitchen was still open – it was! The food was delicious and the service professional. In addition to the cellar door menu of platters and light bites, there’s a wood-fired oven for pizzas and meats. The winery restaurant is the main dining room space and headed by executive chef Anthony Gradiska. My favourite starters include a wild rabbit lasagne with aged Romano truffle and marinated and grilled eggplant. From the mains section, a 55-days aged Southland Scotch fillet with Café de Paris butter is too good. “The cool thing about this place is the different dining experiences available,” says chief winemaker Christopher Keys. “I really love selecting from the starters at the winery restaurant, with the rabbit and pork belly my favourites.” gibbstonvalley.com
LUNA ESTATE
Martinborough
A cycle, walk or one-minute drive from the main square in Martinborough is the Luna Estate wine-tasting and dining experience. Set among the vines, it’s an easy transition from wine-tasting to dining in this family-friendly space. The menu combines traditional Asian fare with Kiwi classics including xiao long bao pork dumplings, pork and prawn dim sum and duck with mushroom wontons. I can recommend the miso glazed salmon and Vietnamese lemongrass chicken. lunaestate.co.nz
“WE STRIVE TO OFFER A REAL FARM-TO-TABLE EXPERIENCE.” PENELOPE NAISH
POPPIES
Martinborough
Walking, cycling or driving around the Wairarapa feels like home – relaxing, calm and welcoming. Just outside Martinborough proper you’ll find Poppies Tasting Room and Cellar Door. What I love about this venue are the small private spaces to dine, indoor or out. You can relax and enjoy a fine bottle of Poppies’ outstanding rosé, gewürztraminer or Méthode Traditionnelle (there’s more to choose, too), with a platter food selection that feels like the perfect accompaniment.
“We’ve always felt like we’re inviting people into our home at Poppies,” says proprietor Poppy Hammond. “This was always practised in the old world – wine and food were always brought together – and Poppies is the place to experience our wines accompanied with delicious platters.” Poppies is not a traditional restaurant so no à la carte, but the platters are substantial and more than enough for two to share. It’s important to book ahead. Ultimately, this is an experience about tasting and understanding wine with food. poppiesmartinborough.co.nz
WELCOME TO OLIVERS
The newly opened cycle track from Cromwell to Clyde opened in early May and takes riders through some of the most dramatic and picturesque landscape in Central Otago. At the end of the track and below the Clyde dam is the tiny township of Clyde, where you’ll find Olivers. Housed in a fully restored heritage building from 1869, the space has open-plan dining, a bar and brewery. From the dinner menu, I recommend the fallow deer tartare with chimichurri, pancetta crumble and chicory endive for an entrée. Meanwhile, for main course, don’t miss the reserve beef rib-eye with hasselback potatoes, roasted beets, spring greens, beef cheek, mushroom popcorn, and madeira jus. olivers.co.nz
AKE AKE VINEYARD & RESTAURANT
Kerikeri, Bay of Islands
Kerikeri is located in the Bay of Islands, Northland and is a 15-minute drive from Waitangi in Paihia. Ake Ake is te reo Māori for ‘forever and ever’, which is perfect for this welcoming space for a long lunch. The menu has local, national and international flavours throughout: one of my favourites is the locally caught kahawai, which is smoked and served with capers as pâté with herb scones and beetroot chutney. Fresh espresso is always done well and all the Ake Ake wines are available to taste and take away. “We use as much local produce as we can. From our veggie man, to locally grown avocado and fresh meats from Kamo and Kaitaia, our aim is to keep it seasonal and fresh,” says proprietor Judy Owen. My favourite you should try is the chambourcin, a red wine with a fleshy core of fruit, decent tannin grip and lengthy finish – great with the duck confit on the menu. akeakevineyard.co.nz
CABLE BAY VINEYARDS
Waiheke Island
Whether it’s a day trip or week-long stay, Waiheke Island has much to offer – from excellent hiking and wineries, to dining. The setting, views, wine and especially food experience at Cable Bay are outstanding. The Bistro offers a relaxed dining experience, while the Verandah has a more extensive menu including sharing boards, wood-fired pizzas, seafood, lamb ribs, brisket sliders and locally harvested oysters. The views across the Hauraki Gulf are incredible in any weather. cablebay.nz
BOAT SHED CAFÉ
Nelson
Every table in the café offers views of Nelson Harbour, the sweet scents of salty air, great coffee and a menu that offers fresh local flavours with super-friendly service. Breakfast on the weekends; lunch and dinner Monday through Sunday. The dinner menu includes venison tartare, gin and beetroot cured salmon, whole flounder and my favourite, the Windsor Blue and roasted garlic soufflé. The beverage selections are well chosen. boatshedcafe.co.nz
URBAN WINERY
Hawke’s Bay
Modern wine bar and dining space the Urban Winery is part of the old, and new, industrial section of Napier close to the port. The building itself has quite a history – once upon a time it housed the National Tobacco Company. Now it’s a fun and modern venue to dine, listen to music on vinyl or a live band on the weekends, and imbibe some outstanding local wines. The menu is tapas-style; the ginger and lemongrass dumplings, a baked goat’s cheese with apricot chutney, spiced plums and croutons or a curried meatballs with sumac and coriander are just a few of my recommendations. Seating is a combination of tables for two or four or a captain’s table to meet other food and wine travellers. “Urban wineries are a global trend,” says winemaker and proprietor Tony Bish. “Bringing together people through winemaking, food and social experiences is fun and educational. I really wanted to re-engage the public with wine and this concept works really well.” The winery is on show as you enter the space showcasing concrete ‘eggs’ (egg-shaped vats), barrels, tanks and the first wooden ‘egg’ in the country. theurbanwinery.co.nz
BANNOCKBURN HOTEL
Bannockburn, Central Otago
Just a few minutes outside Cromwell, the Bannockburn Hotel has been part of the social landscape since the gold rush times of the 1860s. As soon as you arrive, you’ll know you’ve chosen well. Turn left and enjoy a glass of wine from the extensive list or fresh tap beer in a comfortable chair by the fire. Or turn right and enjoy delicious local cuisine in a family-friendly, casual dining space. The tapas and sharing plates menu are my recommendation, and it’s extensive – from a pulled pork sandwich to Baja fish tacos, edamame and hot smoked salmon to chargrilled Cromwell chorizo, garbanzo and spinach. The Te Mana lamb ribs are delicious, though I can’t help but order the blue cod and fries from the ‘dishes designed for one’ section – I’m a creature of habit. With over 50 wines by the glass, wine and food pairing is an adventure and if co-owner Anna Mackintosh is close by, she can guide you. “The luxury of working alongside a whole lot of amazing local wine producers is an opportunity,” says head chef and co-owner Andy Mackintosh. Meanwhile, Anna says: “We wanted to create a venue in the heart of Central Otago wine country that showcases the wine of the region, offering people some fantastic sharing-style food in beautiful surrounds.” Chances are you’ll bump into one of the local wine producers at the hotel, too; it’s one of their favourite dining places. bannockburnhotel.com
VISIT MiNDFOOD.COM
Many top wine producers in Central Otago offer luxury experiences. Here are some fabulous ways to enjoy the region in style. mindfood.com/otago-luxury