TWO BY TWO TASTINGS

A great way to figure out what qualities you want from a wine is by trying two offerings from the same maker. These selections are worthy of your cellar.

WDRINK WINES

hen it’s time to fill those gaps in the wine cellar, choosing replacements that not only age well but develop complexities and nuances only discoverable with time can be a challenge, especially when you’re not sure if bottle-ageing will be successful. All wine changes with age, but those that mature the best are ones with attributes that ensure positive development of flavour, texture and complexity. These attributes must come from the collective inputs of vineyard management, vintage and harvest conditions, winemaking and readiness of drinking upon release.

Unfortunately, a $15 bottle of wine will not cellar nor improve for more than a year (two at best) and is typically made for early drinking, so price is often relative to cellar-worthy wines. Providing the cellar conditions are consistent such as temperature (around 12°C), a moderate humidity and free of light, wine has a good chance of developing well. The bottle closure can make a difference, too, such as Vinolok glass, screwcaps and fault-free cork the best. How many bottles of each to buy is up to you: a single bottle can create as much anticipation as a six- or 12-pack.

Alternatively, two different wines from the same producer will allow you to explore the potential for ageing of different varieties or blends and select which one suits your palate for future investment.

Here are some recent two-by-two tastings worthy of your cellar.

PURIRI HILLS HARMONIE 2015 Clevedon This vineyard delivers exceptional and rare wines. Made with merlot, malbec and the cabernets, a complete yet youthful wine with a polished, harmonious bouquet. Preserved plums and blackberry fruits, violets and toasty savoury spices. With firm tannins, noticeable acidity and a core of fruit, a wine that delivers with a long, promising finish. Cellar-worthy through 2031+. RRP $120.

BURN COTTAGE SAUVAGE VINEYARD PINOT NOIR 2018 Central Otago A seductive wine with an alluring yet seamless journey of aromas from ripe red berries through soft smoky wood, a core of minerality, youthful power and a heart of pinosity. Tense on the palate with firm-ish chalk-textured tannins, cool climate acid-line and long balanced finish. Short-term cellaring or drinking now through 2026. RRP $70.

Eden Valley A beautifully ripe wine with a sweet, powerful core of blackcurrant and dark berries, licorice and crushed violets with moments of dried herb, pepper and baking spices. A decent volume of power and drive with bold tannins and acidity and complexity from the wood is more about foundation for ageing holding the structure in place. Very young and will age for many years. RRP $225. HENSCHKE MOUNT EDELSTONE 2016

PURIRI HILLS POPE 2015 Clevedon Made with merlot, the cabernets, carménère and malbec, a soft unfurling bouquet that is soft, fresh and complex; floral and fruity with violets and plums, oak spices, dark berries and French barrel then flavours of the forest. Firm chalky tannins with a super-fine dusty edge, violets and baking spices, lovely acid line and power. Keep in cellar till at least 2025 and easily through 2030+. RRP $189.

QUARTZ REEF BENDIGO ESTATE FRANZ FERDINAND PINOT NOIR 2015 Bendigo Pure, bright, complex, varietal, a core of red berry fruits, raspberry, roses and red apple skin. Tense, firm, fresh and youthful with a core of fruit, flowers and a seam of minerality. The oak weaves throughout the wine’s flavours, but is low key, providing foundation and complexity over flavour. Enjoyable upon purchase and through 2030. RRP $124.99.

CLOS DE STE. ANNE NABOTH’S VINEYARD CHARDONNAY 2019 Gisborne This expression is delicious. Aromas and flavours of white peach and quince, lemon and apple, a core of minerality coupled with a leesy complexity. Complex on the palate, too, with oak then fruit flavours and winemaking that mirror the bouquet. Fabulous and delicious. Best drinking from early 2022 through 2030. RRP $90.

CLOS DE STE. ANNE THE CRUCIBLE SYRAH 2019 Gisborne A complex, seductive, youthful and enticing wine. Blackcurrant and spices, smoked meats and wild flowers, a leesy earthy complexity and reminders of a northern Rhone counterpart. Flavours of heirloom red fruits and berries, lees, licorice and soft barrel spices, a seductive perfumed finish. A fantastic wine. Best drinking from 2022 through 2028+. RRP $90.

QUARTZ REEF BENDIGO ESTATE SINGLE FERMENT PINOT NOIR 2019 Bendigo Taking the expression of pinot noir to a new level, a wine with purity and vibrato in the bouquet with aromas of sweet ripe black cherry and Otago raspberries, a core of minerality with floral highlights, some new wood scents offering smoke and spice. A lengthy, complex finish. A wine for the cellar still with best drinking from late 2022 through 2030+. RRP $84.99.

TE MATA ESTATE ALMA PINOT NOIR 2019 Hawke’s Bay Named in honour of Dr James Thomson, a hero of the 1854 Battle of the Alma. A wine of youth and power, intensity and core of fresh cherry, raspberry and redcurrant. Spice and texture, firm tannins and acidity, focused and youthful with an excellent mouthfeel and long finish. A wine for mid-term cellaring peaking around 2030. RRP $59.99.

BURN COTTAGE VINEYARD PINOT NOIR 2018 Central Otago This wine showcases the style and potential for all the BC wines. Seamless with transitions between fruit, mineral and winemaking on the palate. Cherry and red apple, baking spice and dried herb complexities, an abundance of fine tannins with a youthful firmness. Lengthy, fruity and distinctive. Cellar until 2024, also drinkable today and through 2028+. RRP $70.

TE MATA ESTATE COLERAINE 2019 Hawke’s Bay First produced in 1982, this wine has a wonderful power, blackberry, blackcurrant, dark cherry and spice, sweet tobacco, toasty barrel and violets. With big firm tannins and plenty of acidity contrasted by a core of fruit there’s no mistaking the texture and youthful tension. A wine that will age well as it delivers the power for a lengthy cellar sleep. RRP $140.

HENSCHKE HILL OF GRACE 2016 Eden Valley This 100 per cent shiraz has power, concentration, a core of fruit with concentration and complexity. Roses, violets, silky blackberry and blackcurrant, doris plums, spices and density. Complex with an abundance of fine tannins, backbone of acidity, pepper, olive, expensive tobacco and exotic kitchen spice combinations. Will cellar for many years. RRP $890.