Gardens of Beauty
Farm-to-face beauty products are common with independent brands, but bigger players are increasingly cultivating their own gardens as a source for ingredients. Time for a wander among the grounds to see how the magic happens.
LANCÔME LE DOMAINE DE LA ROSE, FRANCE
At the heart of Grasse, France, widely known as the perfume capital of the world, Lancôme has established Le Domaine de la Rose, an ecological horticultural site spanning four hectares and dedicated to biodiversity and low-impact production.
The French luxury beauty house owned by L’Oréal acquired the established land in 2020, not only for the sustainable, organic cultivation of roses and other flowers used in the creation of its famous fragrances, but to help preserve the perfumery savoir faire the region is known for.
In 2018, Grasse and its perfumery know-how were awarded world heritage status by UNESCO. Joining its Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity list, the area’s expertise in raising perfume plants, knowledge and processing of natural raw materials and the art of perfume composition were recognised.
The land now known as Lancôme’s Le Domaine has been farmed for approximately five centuries, its former owners considered pioneers in organic rose and perfume plant cultivation for more than 50 years, according to Lancôme’s Global Brand President, Françoise Lehmann.
“The rose has always been dear to Lancôme,” says Lehmann. “We are very honored and proud of this acquisition, which strengthens our presence in Grasse, the birthplace of the perfume industry. Our aspiration was to restore the estate with respect for its agricultural vocation and the equilibrium of biodiversity, while integrating modern and sustainable renovation techniques.” Lancôme uses 99% organic roses in its skincare and makeup products. By 2025, the brand plans to use 100% organic roses.
Already established in the area, a 2-hectare field in Valensole is where the brand’s signature rose used in its
Absolue luxury skincare range is grown. Another field in Grasse grows centifolia rose, jasmine and lavender, destined for its fragrances.
Over the past two years significant work has been undertaken at Le Domaine de la Rose with development of new areas and preservation of the grounds, crops and processes that already exist.
In particular, the centifolia rose, which thrives in the Grasse climate and its unique terroir between the sea and the mountains, is a focus of the site. A plan to use all parts of the rose bush – from the flower, to the petal, stem and even the root – is in progress to develop new active ingredients with zero waste production.
Beyond the existing crops including roses, olive trees, plum trees and fig trees, the brand will grow emblematic plants of the Grasse region such as iris, jasmine, lavender, bitter orange, tuberose, and osmanthus, ancient aromatic plants including immortelle, verbena and Madonna lily, as well as maintaining beehives to enhance the bioculture of the region.
An architectural restoration of the main existing building on the property, now known as the Rose House, was undertaken with local, recycled, and bio-sourced materials and passive, bioclimatic design and now boasts a fetching pink exterior thanks to pink lime plaster.
With an educational distillery and perfume organ – or collection of raw materials that form fragrance notes – the location will be used to share professional expertise among the industry and is expected to also occasionally be open to the public for the curious to visit.
YSL BEAUTY’S OURIKA COMMUNITY GARDENS, MOROCCO
Nestled at the foot of Morocco’s Atlas mountains, YSL’s Ourika Community Gardens is an innovative approach to sourcing ingredients and supporting and improving the local environment and community.
The regenerative garden is devoted to growing cosmetic ingredients and furthering the brand’s research into botanicals beneficial to the skin and other uses, but it also supports the livelihood of a cooperative of local women who tend the gardens.
The area was beloved by the late designer Yves Saint Laurent and a source of inspiration for many of his fashion collections and features searingly hot summers and bitingly cold winters. These contrasts are said to bring out the best in botanicals. In 2023, all of the brand’s skincare and makeup products and some fragrances will contain at least one ingredient from these gardens.
Beyond the gardens, the brand aims to take part in a programme that will protect and restore over 1,000 hectares of land in Morocco by 2025, in addition to the 335 hectares of existing ecosystems restored by YSL in the country.
For the Ourika Community Gardens, it all started in 2013 with a plot of saffron. “That was when we discovered the exceptional properties of the saffron pistils harvested in the plains of the Atlas Mountains,’’ says Caroline Nègre, Sustainability & Scientific Director of YSL Beauty. “The project then developed organically and eventually led to several growing and botanical research areas. Today, it lies at the heart of our sustainable development strategy, both on a social and environmental scale.”
With the help of landscape designers, scientists and agriculture experts, the gardens as they are today were created and divided into three distinct areas that hold more than 200 plant species. The first has 64 square plots for growing plants to be
“IT LIES AT THE HEART OF OUR SUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENT STRATEGY.” CAROLINE NÈGRE
harvested and incorporated in selected YSL Beauty products. In addition to the aforementioned saffron pistils extract which is used in the Or Rouge skincare line, there is walnut leaf extract used in YSL Top Secrets setting spray, and marigold extract used in the famous brightening concealer Touche Éclat.
A second space is an experimental area for exploring potential new ingredients. Finally, a heritage space pays tribute to Yves Saint Laurent and his passion for flowers, with clusters of hibiscus, wheat and lilies.
Respecting the region’s specific cultural and agricultural characteristics, in the main garden