SEDUCED BY THE SOUTH ISLAND
A southern odyssey full of fine food, luxury digs, world-class scenery and adventure galore provided a unforgettable backdrop for a milestone birthday.
Few things outshine the South Island in autumn. Now that travel has opened up, I took the opportunity to explore some of the most beautiful corners of the Canterbury region and Mackenzie Country ... and to add another delightful dimension to the adventure, one member of our party would be celebrating her 50th birthday as we travelled.
As Sarah and I flew into Christchurch on a clear May morning, the mountains put their best peaks forward, the rising sun glowing orange on the first dustings of settled snow. Such a scenic welcome meant we were a very jolly twosome as we drove through the pastoral charms of south Canterbury, where super-sized piles of firewood spoke of cooler months to come.
It had been an early start, so we paused at Café Mes Amis in Orari, where the cheese scones are great and the locals leave their gumboots at the door. Refuelled and refreshed, we walked the Orari Gorge Track, a 90-minute hilly hike through native bush with a birdsong soundtrack.
Back on the road, the GPS set for Geraldine, we made a quick stop at Barker’s to grab a bottle of immunity juice bursting with Vitamin C. A quick meander through the charming Susan Badcock Gallery, and we were off again.
Through Burkes Pass, the landscape was a symphony of shimmering autumn shades. Everything here is outrageously picturesque ... with the pièce de résistance being Lake Tekapo.
Next stop was Lake Pūkaki, famed for its vibrant turquoise waters and views of Aoraki/Mt Cook. It’s as if an extravagant filter had been applied to the natural landscape.
GOURMET FARE
Having driven for several hours, it was a relief to arrive at Lakestone Lodge, a stunning solar-powered hideaway. Owner Anna and chef Steffen welcomed us in. Globally trained, including a stint at a Michelin-starred restaurant, Steffen wowed us with a delicate beetroot meringue, cucumber sorbet, goat cheese mousse, and home-cured salmon.
The owners of newly minted Resurrection Distillery from nearby Twizel also dropped by, the quartet of lively souls offering a taster. We’d have happily lingered over their perfectly balanced botanical gin, but we still had to get to our digs, Mt Cook Lakeside Retreat, a mere five minutes away. The retreat is wildly opulent, the very epitome of elegance. Proprietor Kay explained the story of the Italian mosaic tiles at the entrance to the Moraine Lodge, which depict the family heritage, before ushering us into the high-ceilinged dining hall, where a fire blazed. Shown straight to the kitchen, chef Tom put on a riveting cooking demonstration. Seasoned roasted walnuts, so moreish; roasted grapes for salads or snacking, similarly succulent; a cured smoked salmon; and vanilla panna cotta. Easygoing warmth radiated from Tom, as Sarah and I busily made notes, confident we could re-create these delicacies at home.
In our rooms for a pre-dinner freshen up, we marvelled at the giant bedrooms, the vast bathrooms and the Italian-inspired sitting room with floor to ceiling windows that perfectly framed the natural landscape. How could we ever leave? But dinner called: that did the trick with the lure of the salmon we’d smoked, succulent roast duck and a superb seasonal salad from vegetables grown in the lodge’s organic gardens. You don’t need to stay at the retreat to enjoy this epicurean extravaganza either, but you do need to book in advance.
The final stop before bed was stargazing. In 2012, a 430,000-hectare area around Tekapo was designated the Aoraki Mackenzie International Dark Sky Reserve. To make the most of the star-studded skies, Luke (Kay’s other half) built a private observatoryslash-wine cellar. Sadly, a few clouds rolled in so we were unable to marvel at the wonders of the universe through Luke’s impressive six-inch refractor telescope, but there’s always next time.
The next morning, we revelled in our rooms, where all the necessities for a sumptuous breakfast were supplied. When Sarah discovered tennis racquets, what followed was a quick game, set and match on the most glorious tennis court I’ve ever encountered. Wending our way back to Christchurch, we stopped to survey the wondrous alpine world from Mount
John. Inspired by the crisp alpine air, we felt as lively as a pair of foals but, needing to canter back to Canterbury, we drove on, allowing for a pie stop at the famous Fairlie Bakehouse.
Keen for a little leg-stretcher, we found Talbot Forest, an lowland grove in Geraldine with birds galore, a bat population and massive totara trees.
Back in Christchurch, the astronomical theme continued at The Observatory Hotel, located in the elegant Arts Centre. What dedication to detail! The design is both quirky and classy with adventurous use of colour, offering new heights of contemporary luxury in a precinct that bursts with heritage and culture. Featuring 33 uniquely designed rooms decked out with locally crafted furniture, each suite starred extravagant art and all the mod cons.
Dinner was at nearby Cellar Door, where the focus is on fine fresh food served with flair. Bearing in mind a certain member of our party was turning 50 the following day, we celebrated with hearty winter fare and rich red wines.
Birthday breakfast at The Observatory included smoked salmon, cheeses and pastries, and another chance to savour the endearing ambience. Yet Methven beckoned, as we’d booked a treatment at the new Ōpuke Thermal Pools and Spa, an hour from Christchurch.
TIME TO BE PAMPERED
Ōpuke was bliss. Warm, indulgent, aromatic bliss. This architectural marvel will win awards, mark my words, and solar-heated water is all part of the sustainable ethos. A warm welcome was followed by a birthday facial to massage those smile lines away. Next, an exfoliating Middle Eastern Rusul treatment, all mud and steam, in a sauna.
Once rinsed, we soaked serenely in the adults-only tranquillity pools with their resplendent views of the Southern Alps. What a perfect way to spend a special day! There is also a family-friendly area where younger swimmers can splash to their heart’s content. What a deeply relaxing après-ski indulgence Ōpuke would be.
Back to Christchurch, keen to sample another phenomenal hotel, our appetite for luxury showed no sign of being sated and tonight it was the boutique Eliza’s Manor. Built in 1861 – which made my celebrating friend feel like a spring chicken – this richly historied house is filled with treasures from various eras. Wandering around, we admired everything from the anthology of wallpapers past, to the brass birds and beasts and the lush lighting. It’s the perfect blend of old-school charm and luxe modernity.
We had a celebratory dinner at King of Snake on Cashel Street. What better way to celebrate Sarah’s birthday than with fragrant eggplant, mini chicken roti and duck with caramelised mandarin sauce?
More food? Yes, please. At breakfast at Eliza’s we enjoyed its sublime mushroom benedict and freshly blended beetroot juice ... just the ticket to power one final frolic. To keep the good times rolling, we rocked up to adventure experts Chill for a guided city cycle tour, the perfect way to round out our decadent southern odyssey. Knowledgeable guide Claire led the way, as we explored inspiration in every corner of Christchurch, from Riccarton House and Bush to Deans Cottage, Mona Vale to the mosaic memorial of Flora and Otto in Hagley Park, until we completed our ride at Riverside Market, with its dazzling array of bustling eateries.
What a thrill to relish this region in all its fall finery – we utterly fell for the South Island’s myriad charms.