FRANCO SESSA
MiNDFOOD GRAND GOURMAND
What is the process for deciding whether a cheese is ‘good’ or not? And must we agree?
The great philosopher Protagoras of Abdera once said: “Man is the measure of all things.” It’s a strong and defined statement that still feels contemporary when it comes to the taste of cheeses and deciding if they are good or not.
We can all agree that while some cheeses taste good and are universally popular, others may be appealing to some and disregarded by many – while some can be just bad and inedible to all. How do we measure and agree on good taste? Are we all tasting the same way? Could our personalities, upbringings and ethnicities influence the way we taste and appreciate cheeses? These are all questions for the hard basket.
The science behind basic cheese tasting is simple and applicable to every cheese lover. The moment a piece of cheese is introduced into the mouth, the mashed-up cheese blended into saliva will coat the tongue, the tip will immediately detect salt flavour, the front sides the sweet, the back sides the bitter, the top part the savoury and the rear end by the throat will screen for acidity.
If one or two of these tastes are dominant over the rest, chances are that the cheese flavour is unbalanced or even off. Too much salt is often the first wrong sensory impression, while the last memory of that below-average cheese will be an acidic sensation at the back of your tongue that indicates some off-putting rancidity.
Obviously, the salinity expected in a Hellenic-style cheese like feta would be out of place if experienced in a Normandy camembert. Meanwhile, a refined sour taste can be complementary to a great Parmigiano Reggiano but be the sign of spoilage if detected in a fresh lactic cheese like fromage frais or mozzarella.
Complex flavours are a tool used in cheese sensory tasting to evaluate distinctive characteristics in a cheese; it’s almost a quest to discover what is colloquially known as ‘personality of the cheese’.
These complex flavours are often associated with well-known flavours found in other foods or in nature. They are grouped in five categories: dairy; fruity or floral; vegetable or herbaceous; mineral or chemical; and animal or fermented.
Familiar with that tasty goodness stuck at the bottom of the pan of your Sunday roast? That meaty/consommé complex flavour is the perfect descriptor for the savoury level in some aged cheddar or Comté. Gorgonzola piccante (spicy) will bring to memory the peppery kick of fresh rocket with some allspice twist and fall into the category of fruity/floral complex flavours.
Next time you buy your favourite cheese or decide to try a new one, take your time with the tasting … savour it, close your eyes and allow those complex flavours and aromas to wake up those memories of past foods and places.