Motorhomes Caravans & Destinations
BEGINNER’S LUCK
Cari Johnson embarks on her first road trip in a motorhome — finding solace in homely comforts on the way to Kaikōura
Cari Johnson takes her first trip in a motorhome, to Kaikōura
The heart palpitations began as we approached a seven-metre motorhome that resembled more a beast than holiday. Neither I or my partner Josh had any experience with a vehicle larger than our zippy Honda Fit. We, admittedly, are city-slickers through and through.
Luckily I had mentally prepared for this excursion. I recalled my list of questions to rattle off to the staff at motorhome rental company Mcrent in Christchurch. How does one plug a motorhome into a campsite? I thought. How on earth does one find parking? I was far too timid to broach any question involving the toilet.
Our rental was a Dethleffs Trend T 6757 DBM, roughly double the size of our compact car. My heart once again fluttered, this time with excitement, as we toured the spacious RV. The large ovalshaped bed would easily accommodate our height and, with a foldable TV screen, it had a home-away-from-home feel about it. But the real test would be driving this bad boy off the lot and heading up the north Canterbury coast in one piece. Our mantra was simple yet foolproof: thou shall never, ever take the motorhome through a drive-thru.
I handed Josh the keys. He has always been a skilled driver, but I could see his face glistening as we drove the motorhome off the lot. Our speed (and Josh’s confidence) picked up as Christchurch disappeared in the southern horizon. It was just us, our motorhome, and a 180km stretch of SH1 to our destination.
AMBIENCE IN WAIPARA
The two-hour drive from Christchurch to Kaikōura is practically begging to be broken up, with plenty of quaint towns, wineries and natural wonders along the way. We had survived just under an hour without accident – we deserved a rest, right?
Josh pulled the brakes in Amberley, a popular stopover town with just enough cafés to entice passers-by to drop in. Sustenance at the Nor’wester Café came in the form of towering eggs benedict, a much-needed breakfast for these motorhomers-in-training.
Waipara Valley was a short drive away and, we discovered, a prominent stop between Amberley and Kaikōura. The vineyard-dense region, once a sleepy railway town, is now home to more than 75 wineries. Many of these (to our delight) were dotted along the highway. Pinot noir, riesling and chardonnay rule in this neck of the woods, so for travellers who enjoy the tipple, this is a stop worth taking.
Most wineries are open for tastings from Friday through Sunday, as well as garden-totable dining for motorists with an appetite. I eagerly checked my watch. It was just past midday – a socially acceptable time to pull into the Waipara Springs vineyard for a wee tasting. Five wee sips of wine later and we were off, inching closer to our coastal destination.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
Feeling spontaneous, we turned off near Domett for a quick coastal detour. The country road twisted and turned around farms and hills as we approached Gore Bay. Most motorists pull over roughly halfway between SH1 and the coast for a peek at Cathedral Cliffs, a geographical spectacle and convenient place to stretch the legs. A large wall of spiraling clay pillars can be seen in the distance which is the result of soft sandstone eroding over time. Gore Bay, not far from the cliffs, reminded us of the days of no mobile reception and colourful (but basic) baches. It’s a small, isolated holiday spot worthy of a stopover – or even a longer stay at the Gore Bay Campgrounds, which has 10 powered sites adjacent to the beach.
HOMELY COMFORTS
Back on SH1, we felt privileged to be driving on what had become a gloriously warm day. As we approached Kaikōura, the sun beamed down like a spotlight on the nearby mountains and quaint seaside town. We pulled into the Top 10 Holiday Park and, surrounded by seasoned motorhomers, managed to connect to power without any hiccups. There
seemed to be a non-verbal language in this campground – friendly nods, grunts and waves were exchanged between just about everyone. One neighbour even stopped at our site to examine our rental. “Now that’s a good-looking motorhome,” he told us.
The next morning we were greeted with a glorious sunrise. It was a quiet, misty morning and we realised not several other motorhomers had left their homely comforts to watch the pink-and-orange glow creep over the Seaward Kaikōura Ranges.
GATEWAY TO THE SEA
Straddled by sea and sky-high mountains on either side, Kaikōura is a winner for both views and activities. The seaside town sits as close as 500 metres to an underwater canyon; it’s this nutrient-rich environment that keeps dolphins, sperm whales, and other sea life around regardless of the season. Whale watching is by far the most popular marine activity, but there are lots of other options for those willing to embrace their sea legs.
That morning we shimmied into blubber-like wetsuits for a sea kayak tour of the peninsulas. Kaikōura Kayaks owner Matt Foy knew where to spot all of the friendly seals. Several even slipped from their rocks to approach our canary-yellow kayaks. On such a peaceful
sunny day, it was difficult to imagine a better way to experience the marine life in Kaikōura.
After a quick change in the motorhome we headed out with our walking shoes to the Kaikōura Peninsula Walkway. This grassy outcrop has long served as the lifeblood of Kaikōura’s economy. Legend has it Māui steadied himself on the peninsula while he fished the North Island from the sea. At least 14 pā sites are scattered across the land where generations of Māori once lived. In the 1850s, whalers used the rocky perimeter as a natural butcher’s block. Fast-forward a few hundred years and the peninsula still nourishes the region, though perhaps in a less literal sense.
The easy track twists and turns along the clifftops, providing views of a sprawling seal colony and rugged mountains-to-sea landscape. The loop track takes at least three hours to complete; for a shorter trip, backtrack to your starting point.