A magical playground for all seasons
The view from the jetty extending out from the waterfront shows off the fortuitous result of a long-gone glacier that left piles of rubble at the northern end, damning the river to form Lake Rotoiti. Just over half an hour away is the equally picturesque Lake Rotoroa, formed in the same way.
Maori believe the two lakes are the eye-sockets of Muturangi, a great octopus which battled with Kupe in the Tory Channel to keep his fishing grounds safe. Kupe was thought to be the first Polynesian to set foot on New Zealand shores.
In 1860 geologist and explorer Julian Von Haast traversed the area searching for minerals and reported on his sightings of the native Kakapo, Kokako and Kiwi. He also named Mt Robert and Lake Rotoroa, among other places.
A few dwellings sprang up in St Arnaud, then called Rotoiti (meaning small lake), in the 1920s and for a time a row of boatsheds graced the waterfront. Gradually the village evolved as a destination to
‘get away from it all’ as more people discovered its opportunities for leisure and adventure.
Rather extraordinarily, the area was renamed St Arnaud after the French Marshal Jacques Leroy de Saint-Arnaud (1798-1854) to avoid the confusion with the other Lake Rotoiti in the North Island.
The Nelson Lakes National Park was established in 1956 and the Rotoiti Nature Recovery Project in 1997. This covers five thousand hectares of largely beech forest where rigorous pest control programmes have been successful in reducing predators and bringing back abundant native bird life, which is always noticed by visitors to the area.
Few towns in New Zealand are as fortunate as Nelson to have an outdoor adventure playground in such close proximity. Only an hour’s drive from central Nelson, St Arnaud is nestled in a magical forest and alpine lake setting that offers an array of experiences for all to enjoy.
St Arnaud is at the northernmost tip of the South Island’s backbone, the Southern Alps, and is gateway to the Nelson Lakes recreational area with its vast opportunities for walking, fishing, skiing, canyoning, mountainbiking, occasional ice skating when it’s cold enough, or simply enjoying some the fresh mountain air beside the highly photogenic lake.
Hamish of Rotoiti Water Taxis loves the area with a passion. “St Arnaud is a quirky little village that feels like it has been transplanted from the middle of the European Alps to the South Pacific,” he says. “There is a friendly vibe here and visitors are very welcome. Nelsonians are very lucky. How often do you find a pristine alpine area only an hour from a beach,” he laughs.
He regularly delivers people to parts of the lake from which they can undertake some of the many bush walks. “Being dropped off at the head of the lake they can walk back through the magnificent honeydew beech forest,” he says. “There are many other walks too from those that are very easy to navigate to experience-required tramping tracks.”
The area is worth visiting at any time of the year but as the winter season arrives the snow begins to fall and Rainbow Ski Area draws in the snow lovers.
Jan Thomson
Artist Jan Thomson feels extremely lucky to live at St Arnaud, surrounded by inspiration for her art. Painting mainly landscapes, her work in both acrylic and watercolour is sought after. “Most years I go to one of the high-country stations to paint so am always finding wonderful new vistas,” she says. Particularly drawn by the different moods of light as it settles on alpine areas, she tries to paint plein air as much as she can. “Being outside with my paints and canvas in the landscape is very inspiring,” she says. Jan enjoys undertaking commissions which can include any subject matter from shearing gangs to birds or plants.” She also runs popular watercolour classes from her studio and shows her work at the Wall to Wall Gallery in Bridge Street and on her website. “Visitors are welcome to visit my studio from 10am to 4pm whenever I am home,” she says.
Tophouse
The Tophouse Inn is a heritage-listed boutique hotel just a short distance from St Arnaud, Lake Rotoiti and the Rainbow Ski Field. The main dwelling was constructed from thick cob in 1887 ensuring it is crammed full of character and history. With spectacular mountain views, antiques in keeping with the inn’s age and the smallest bar in New Zealand, it is regularly lauded for its unique ambience. Along with the accommodation available in the house there are also four self-contained cottages on site and space for up to ten motorhomes. Owners, Helen and Clint Brough, are well known for their warm and accommodating hospitality and offer breakfasts in the historic dining room complete with roaring log fire in the winter. In the evenings the room turns into the Prickly Vine Restaurant where experienced chef Sebastian Stasiak and wife Angelina serve delicious three course meals that can be prebooked by guests and visitors alike.
The Woodsman’s Den
The Woodsman’s Den at St Arnaud is gaining a reputation as the sanctuary you don’t want to leave. Secluded but close to all the activities the alpine village has to offer, the guesthouse is popular with couples, families and friends who want to spend quality time together. With two bedrooms it can sleep five and everything is provided for a blissful stay. A handcrafted hot tub sits invitingly on the deck. “It is an absolute highlight for guests,” say owners Anna and Nick King. Luxuriating in it beneath the magic of the night sky or listening to the abundant bird life during the day provides complete relaxation and a sense of well-being. In winter a blazing fire in the living room adds to the ambience. Providing quality accommodation at the edge of Nelson Lakes National Park, the Woodsman’s Den is an opportunity to step off the treadmill and draw breath.
Rainbow Ski Area
The Rainbow Ski Area, serving local communities, has been enticing people to its slopes for forty years thanks to the efforts of many volunteers and sponsors who have put their heart and soul into creating an alpine experience that everyone can enjoy.
“We welcome skiers and snowboarders from complete beginners who have never seen snow before to those who are highly experienced, and this year we are excited to have an international team of instructors back with us who can provide coaching at all levels,” says mountain manager Andrew Malcolm. “There is no necessity to bring your own equipment because everything needed can be provided at our hire store on site,” says Andrew. Rainbow’s own café on site ensures hungry tummies are well catered for and there are a range of ski pass and package options available. There is also a shuttle hire available from the bottom car park if required.