Aust takes action in wool rivalry
The rivalry between Australia and New Zealand has long been played out through crunching tackles on rugby pitches and uncharitable jokes in bar rooms. Now the nations’ sheep have entered the fray amid an intense focus on the provenance of wool.
The boss of Australian Wool Innovation (AWI), a not-for-profit company that promotes domestic wool, said that its wool was being passed off as a product of New Zealand. The company, owned by 29,000 sheep farmers, is gearing up for a £35 million (NZ$67.5m) marketing push to hammer home the quality of its fibre.
The body representing New Zealand farmers riposted that some garment and carpet manufacturers were attempting to profit from New Zealand wool’s reputation for better quality by misleadingly labelling some products.
Stuart McCullough, the chief executive of AWI, said: ‘‘There’s more cashmere sold than there is produced. Some people are passing off wool as cashmere. It’s not very ethical, but it’s like having a free marketing department. It’s the same with New Zealand wool. There is more apparel wool sold than is actually produced there. They’re getting it from somewhere and the chances are they’re getting it from Australia.’’
Most Australian wool ends up in clothing, whereas most New Zealand wool is destined for carpets.
AWI, which owns the Woolmark symbol, is increasing its marketing budget by 56 per cent in an attempt to convince the fashion industry and consumers of the benefits of Australian wool.
Wools of New Zealand, the farmers’ body, said that its high quality and standards of animal welfare meant that some unscrupulous manufacturers were passing off wool from elsewhere as having originated in New Zealand.
The Australian wool industry has been criticised by activist groups, such as Peta, for mulesing, a surgical procedure that reduces flystrike, which they argue is cruel to sheep.
Stephen Parsons, the innovation manager of Wools of New Zealand, said that it was working to position wool as a niche product, leaving the intense price competition to downmarket British and Australian producers.
‘‘New Zealand lamb were originally bred for the UK textiles in- dustry,’’ he said. ‘‘The wool is extremely clean, white, strong and fit for purpose and has a great reputation. People like to say it’s New Zealand wool.
‘‘There are also animal husbandry issues, with people like Peta complaining about Australian merino wool. My advice is to look for our brand – we can guarantee it’s New Zealand wool and we can tell you where it’s grown.’’
Accredited New Zealand woollen garments may still contain some wool from elsewhere, but there are strict rules over the composition. Wools of New Zealand has introduced Laneve, a new quality mark that allows wool to be traced back to its source.
New Zealand export prices for wool rose to a 21-year high last year, although export values were less than half the level of their 1980s peak. Between 1982 and last year, the number of sheep in the country fell from 70 million to 31 million.
In Australia, prices have remained higher than A$10 (NZ$12.60) a kilogram for two years. ‘‘That is a bit of a line in the sand,’’ Mr McCullough said. ‘‘Above that level, farmers are going to stick at what they’re doing.’’