Off-grid pizza paradise in the Bay bush
An off-grid pizza parlour operating out of a clay kitchen in the bush in Golden Bay is so busy that customers who can’t get a table sit on the grass to eat their dinner.
Crian Cahusac opened Toto’s Cafe and Pizzeria on a secluded piece of land on Totaranui Rd, near the northern end of Abel Tasman National Park, five years ago.
Cahusac, who runs the property with his partner, Carole Fournier, said the cafe was so ‘‘unbelievably busy’’ during summer that its 60-odd seats were filled immediately after opening.
On warm summer evenings, those who missed out on a table sometimes sat on the grass to enjoy their food and the view of Wainui Bay, he said.
Cahusac built the cafe himself, using clay excavated from the hillside for the building. He added a ‘‘living earth roof’’ with wild flowers growing on top.
Made using the cob technique, the cafe’s structure and wood-fired pizza oven are a mixture of clay, sand and straw – one of the oldest building techniques in the world.
The building was ‘‘completely off-grid’’, surrounded by heavy bush and native birds, and relying on a micro-hydro power system supplemented by solar panels, Cahusac said.
The couple lived at the top of the property as an example of simple, off-grid living with limited resources, he said.
Fresh dough is made on site for the pizzas, with local produce favoured for the toppings. Eggs come from the couple’s chickens, and food scraps are fed to their worm farm and geese. The cafe serves Kiwi craft beers, local wines and homemade desserts, but pizza is always the hero dish. Vegan and gluten-free options are available.
Customer Bryan Gilchrist said he lived in Italy for several months before moving to New Zealand, and Toto’s thin-crust pizza was the closest he had found to the ‘‘real thing’’ here. The view was ‘‘the icing on the cake’’, he said.
Cahusac said customers could watch the baking process from the lawn or play quoits while they waited, and visitors to the property were welcome to explore the couple’s sustainable set-up and ecofriendly lifestyle.
Those keen to enjoy the surroundings could also take a short walk through the regenerative bush to get a prime view of Golden Bay and Farewell Spit.
To find the cafe, turn off about eight kilometres before the
Totaranui Campground and follow the long, gravel road. Toto’s is open daily throughout the summer months, and filled with locals when it opens every Sunday in winter.
On The Road is a series on best places to eat, explore and enjoy in the South Island this summer. If you know of any other hidden gems, email reporters@press.co. nz