Nelson Mail

Amazing asparagus

Nicola Galloway shares two ways to prepare a spring favourite.

- Nicola Galloway is an award-winning food writer, cookbook author and culinary tutor. Visit: homegrown-kitchen.co.nz.

Weekend kitchen

Growing food is a humbling experience. When I first started out I had great aspiration­s to grow many of the vegetables I would usually purchase from the market or shops. I have now tried most of these crops to varying degrees of success and worked out what works well in my garden, and what does not. The success, as with all gardens, largely comes down to the sun hours, which my valley garden lacks, and the microclima­te of my location.

Having a suburban section (800m2) also means I am juggling for space to grow food. The garden beds have a prime spot for sun through the seasons, while also leaving some lawn space for my energetic children to run around (plus fruit trees and a chicken run). This brings me to asparagus and the great aspiration I had in growing it. Unfortunat­ely, when it came down to yield vs garden space required, the asparagus had to go. Truthfully, it never quite recovered from having the glasshouse built beside it.

What a difference this makes to available garden space. Do I miss the asparagus? Absolutely, fresh cut backyard asparagus is something else, and I am already planning new garden beds once the lawn space is no longer enjoyed by my children. Fortunatel­y there is no lack of asparagus in spring. I carefully watch the price of new season asparagus and when it drops to my favourable amount it regularly lands in my shopping basket. Here are two recipes I have been cooking with it recently.

Raw asparagus, radish, apple and mint salad

With my recipes I like to introduce different ways to prepare and eat seasonal produce. In this salad I use raw asparagus, if you haven’t tried it before I recommend giving it a go. Raw asparagus is sweet and crunchy. If preferred, or serving this to someone who may not approve, by all means feel free to

lightly steam the asparagus (cut diagonally into 5mm thick slices) then refresh in cold water. Although, do try and retain some crunch if you can.

This is one of those salads where good equipment will see you through. A mandoline is one of my favourite kitchen tools for quickly and efficientl­y thinly slicing produce. I use mine most days, just watch your fingers! Making ribbons of the asparagus does require a little practice with a peeler so follow the instructio­ns in the recipe.

■ 4-5 large asparagus spears, about 150g

■ 4 radishes

■ 1⁄ apple

2

■ Small handful mint leaves, torn

■ 3 tbsp toasted sliced almonds

Preparatio­n time: 15 minutes Serves 4 as a side ACV dressing

■ 1 tbsp apple cider vinegar

■ 1 tsp dijon mustard

■ 1 tsp honey

■ 1 small garlic clove, finely grated ■ About 2 tbsp olive oil

■ Salt and cracked pepper

Make the dressing. In a small bowl combine the vinegar, mustard, honey and garlic. Stir in the olive oil and season to taste, adding extra oil if needed to balance the vinegar.

Using a peeler (I find a Y shaped peeler works best here) cut thin ribbons of raw asparagus. To do this lay the asparagus on a chopping board. Use one hand to hold the spear end and use the other to peel thin ribbons. Press quite firmly with the peeler so the ribbons aren’t too thin. When you can’t easily peel any more of the asparagus, use a sharp knife to thinly slice the remaining stalk on a diagonal. Place the asparagus into a salad bowl.

Use a mandoline on the smallest setting to thinly slice the radishes and apple. Add to the salad bowl along with the torn mint leaves. Spoon over the dressing and toss gently to combine. Sprinkle with sliced almonds and serve immediatel­y. This salad needs to be prepared just before serving to keep the produce fresh. The dressing can be made ahead of time.

Flash-cooked asparagus with egg salad

This is my go-to method to cook asparagus, using a high heat and quick cook time. It retains the flavour of the produce while not overcookin­g. I use the same method for broccoli, cauliflowe­r, silver beet and kale, adjusting the cook time to suit the vegetable. The egg salad topping is quite wonderful, the added crunch from the sliced almonds completes this dish perfectly. It would also make a great sandwich filling, or you could even roll the asparagus and egg salad in bread for some fancy asparagus rolls. Now we’re talking.

Preparatio­n time: 20 minutes

Cook time: 18 minutes Serves 4 as a side

■ 4 free-range eggs

■ 3 tbsp mayonnaise

■ 1 tbsp natural unsweetene­d yoghurt

■ Squeeze of lemon juice, about 1 tbsp

■ 1 heaped tsp dijon mustard

■ 1⁄ tsp smoked paprika

2

■ Salt and cracked pepper

■ 1⁄ celery stalk, finely chopped

2

■ 1⁄ red onion, finely chopped

4

■ 2-3 pickled gherkins, finely chopped

■ Handful fresh dill, chives and/or parsley, (3 tbsp) chopped

■ 2 bunches of asparagus (500g), tough stalks trimmed

■ Olive oil (about 2 tsp)

■ Boiling water (about 3 tbsp)

■ 2 tbsp toasted sliced almonds (optional)

First prepare the egg salad. Place the eggs into a small saucepan, cover with water and secure a lid. Bring to a boil. Remove the lid, turn down the heat to a gentle simmer and cook for 6 minutes. Drain and cover the eggs with cold water to cool.

In a bowl place the mayonnaise, yoghurt, lemon juice, mustard and paprika. Mix to combine, then season to taste. Add extra lemon juice if needed to balance the flavour.

Add the prepared celery, red onion, gherkins and herbs and mix together. Peel the eggs, roughly chop and add to the bowl. Fold together. Check taste again and adjust as needed with extra salt and pepper.

Now cook the asparagus. Heat a large frying pan over a high heat. Once hot add the asparagus, drizzle with oil and add a splash of boiling water. Season with salt and pepper then immediatel­y cover with lid and cook for 5 minutes. Remove the lid, shake the pan, and continue to cook for another 1-3 minutes until any remaining moisture has evaporated and the asparagus is tender when pierced with the tip of a sharp knife (the cooking time will depend on the size of the asparagus spears).

Tip the cooked asparagus onto a serving plate. Spoon over the egg salad and sprinkle with the sliced almonds (if using). Serve warm or cold.

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 ?? NICOLA GALLOWAY ?? Two delicious asparagus salads.
NICOLA GALLOWAY Two delicious asparagus salads.

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