Organic producers the Milltons have proved critics wrong.

The Milltons have proved critics wrong.

James Millton was once expelled from a private school for making blackberry wine in the prefects’ study. Now, he and his wife, Annie, run Gisborne’s leading small winery, marketing the rare, prestigious, hill-grown Clos de Ste Anne brand, the middle-tier Millton range and the fun, easy-drinking Crazy by Nature label.

In 1986, the Milltons’ vineyards were the first in the country to be certified organic. “They thought we were crazy to grow our grapes organically,” James recalls. “We’ve spent the past 30 years proving they were right. Now, it seems everyone wants to be crazy.”

Clos de Ste Anne The Crucible Syrah 2014

This outstanding red was handpicked, blended with a splash of viognier (5%) and matured in large, seasoned French oak casks. Deeply coloured, it is full-bodied (13.5% alc/ vol), ripely fragrant and sweet-fruited, with concentrated plum and spice flavours, nutty, savoury and complex, gentle tannins and a lasting finish. Full of personality. $75

Millton Opou Vineyard Riesling 2014

This is the country’s northernmost fine-quality riesling. Pale lemon/ green, with a fragrant bouquet, it is a light (9.5% alc/vol), gently sweet wine, rich and rounded, with concentrated, peachy, slightly limey flavours, lively and lingering. Already delicious. $28

Millton Chenin Blanc Te Arai Vineyard 2015

For one of New Zealand’s bestknown chenin blancs, the grapes are hand-picked at up to four stages of ripening and fermented in tanks and large, 600-litre French oak casks. This fragrant, finely poised wine is very youthful, with slightly sweet peach, pear and spice flavours, woven with fresh acidity, and a long finish. Worth cellaring. (12.5% alc/ vol). $30

Millton La Cote Gisborne Pinot Noir 2015

Who said you can’t make a good pinot noir in Gisborne? This hillgrown wine is full-bodied (13.5% alc/vol) and savoury, with strong, ripe cherry, plum and spice flavours, youthful and complex, and has excellent harmony and potential. $30

Crazy by Nature Gisborne Cosmo Red 2014

This malbec and syrah-based blend was aged in American oak barrels. Full-coloured, it is mouthfilling (13% alc/vol), with strong berry, plum and spice flavours, good tannin backbone and a tight, lingering finish. Still youthful, it should be at its best from mid-2017. $26